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My fuse box relocation (project log)

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Thanks guys! Once I'm finally done with all the wiring I'll repost all of my wiring documents I've made, some have changed a bit since I first posted them, so hopefully they will help others along the way.

Craig, the trans was blasted assembled, I didn't take anything apart. VERY careful taping was required to block off the holes. My blast cabinet is plenty large to fit the trans in so that wasn't an issue. I gotta say, I really would not recommend other people do it this way. I did end up getting a few (and I mean very few) beads in the trans through the VSS hole (should've left the vss in). I flushed the trans out with fluid upside down several times so the fluid came out that hole so I'm hoping I got all the beads out, plus I plan on flushing it again after putting a few miles on it. Overall, it was just a huge pain, and took five straight hours to blast. Plus, now all the bolts are rusting (they're steel of course) so I have to paint them all with Aluma-Blast once I pull the trans out.

Quick update: got a majority of the fuse box wiring done, have to order more connectors though so I'm at a standstill until I get them. This past week I didn't get much time to work so I'm a bit off schedule, engine should be coming out tomorrow. My paint gun came today so I have to order everything else to paint the engine bay, plus research and buy everything for the battery relocation. Still have to get knuckles/abs sensors and new front axles.
 
Nope, I used the kit from ssstuds.com, plus an M10 bolt from the UK because their kit didn't have the right size bolt.
 
Two steps forward (Yesterday)...

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And 30 steps back (Today)...

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Engine is back out again, along with everything else possible including brake, p/s, and clutch lines. The brake/clutch line fittings broke loose pretty easily but it took some thought of how to actually get the lines out without damaging them. I ended up dropping the steering column and disconnecting it from the rack, then I could slip the lines through the gap between the column and rack. I forgot to mark the alignment of the column and rack, so putting this all back together and getting it straight is going to be tricky :ohdamn: Brake master cylinder is easy, just remove the 2 nuts on it after removing the lines. Brake booster - remove the retaining pin and clevis pin under the dash, then remove the 4 nuts on it under the dash and pull it away from the firewall. Clutch master cylinder - remove the line, remove the retaining pin and clevis pin under the dash, then one nut under the dash and one nut on the firewall.

I made an executive decision to skip painting the front subframe and suspension pieces for now for the sake of money, and more importantly, time. I plan on "overhauling" the rear suspension in the future so I'll just paint the front at the same time. I can remove the front subframe with the engine in the car so it's not a huge deal. I just really want to drive my car again!

I purchased new OEM knuckles and all 4 lower control arms today and am getting used ABS sensors so that is taken care of.
 
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So... why did you even put the motor in yesterday? If you knew you were going to take it out? LOL

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
The motor has been in for months, it went back in so I could do the wiring while it was too cold to paint. Now that the wiring is mostly done and the weather is warm, it's time for paint.
 
Not sure if this has come up yet, but I just got off the phone with someone from motor city reman about saturn alternators and our cars. He said a bunch of people have been having problems with the saturn alternators and the wiring with our cars. To fix this he coverts them to 1-wire alternators. Not sure if you knew this or not.
 
Yep, we do. To convert this you have to have a self-exciting regulator put in. Then you only have to run the main power wire. We've considered sending ours back (we both have one) to get this installed, but we're going to try it as it is for right now. If there's a problem, then we'll send them back.

Or maybe I should send back mine now so that we have it as a back-up in case we need it right away...
 
I don't have any time to make a proper update (and there is a lot to update) so I'll have to make this quick. The reason I haven't updated in awhile is because I've been hustling my a$$ off trying to finish this car for the tri-state meet. As it looks right now my car won't be there, just too much left to do. I tried to drop the engine in tonight but it started raining so I'm pulling an all nighter trying to get it in if the rain lets up before I leave for vacation for a week in 6 hours or so.

The major step is that the engine bay is now painted and the engine is ready to drop in, although it's missing a few minor parts for now, bunch of new suspension pieces up front, still waiting on a few more, still need to finish up battery relocation and wiring. Here are some pictures, sorry I don't have time to write anything.

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Looking really good, I'm in the same boat right now. Car is fully stripped and working on one area at a time. Did you powder coat your sub frames or paint them? Cant wait to see it when she is all done. Good luck to you.
 
Too clean to be real. I wish it could make it. Im sorda in the same boat. I got hustled for parts and my car won't make it either.

James :dsm::talon::laser:
 
Looking really good, I'm in the same boat right now. Car is fully stripped and working on one area at a time. Did you powder coat your sub frames or paint them? Cant wait to see it when she is all done. Good luck to you.

The subframe was just painted quickly with Rustoleum. I would have liked to powdercoat it but there are a few complications with that. I use a kitchen oven to powdercoat so it wouldn't fit in there, it would have taken many hours to media blast that to have it ready for a shop to coat and I'm short on time, paint is cheaper, and the biggest thing is I would have had to remove all the rubber bushings to have it powdercoated, then reinstall them all again. I eventually plan to paint it with a heavier duty paint to protect against rock chips etc. but this will do in the meantime.

If you dont mind could you take a pic of your rewired fuse box wiring.

Thanks much.

I still haven't finished the wiring, but I promise I will post plenty of pictures when it's all done.
 
Cool, I in the process of relocating my fuse box /eliminating ac/evap/airbag on my car and wanted to get a visual on how your fuse box harness looks after all that work.

Great work bro!
 
Ya, small oven makes for a pain with large parts. I had mine powdered, now I'm in the process of making new sub frame bushings. It will all be worth it in the end though.

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God, the engine bay looks so good with fresh paint! How did you prepare the surface for primer/paint?

How is the DeVilbiss working out?
 
Thanks! I hate bodywork. I started out by removing all the rust from the bay using anything I could - sandpaper, scrothbrite pads, dremel in some cases, wire wheel, etc. The lower rad support was really hard to get to so I did as much rust removal as I could then brushed on rust treatment (which I don't like btw). Then all those areas of bare metal, plus the lower rad support, got primered with a rattlecan. Then I feathered the edges of the primer in with red/gray scrotchbrite pads and scuffed the rest of the engine bay with the pads. This all took about a week. Did I mention I hate bodywork? After I spent way too many hours being OCD, I vacuumed up all the dust, blew it off with air, wiped the bay with wax and grease remover, spent like 4 hours taping and masking off everything and covering the car with tarps, then wax and grease remover again, the blew it off with air again, then wiped it down with special DeVilbiss wipes, then blew it off with air once more, then laid down 3 coats paint and 3 coats clear (no primer or sealer was used for the whole bay per the paint shop's recommendation). I might have forgot a few steps but that's the basics. So nobody can say I didn't put effort into the prep work. I hate bodywork.

Oh ya, almost forgot. In the midst of all that I had to deal with this (the lower plate was being welded in in this shot): :cry::cry::cry:

IMG_8778.jpg


I put a crap-ton of work into this too, I have a lot of info to share at another time. But suffice it to say I was DEVASTATED when I found the rust hiding :cry:


Oh, the DeVilbiss gun is working out great! I love the Dekups system haha. To be fair, this is the only gun I've ever handled so I can't give a good review, but it seems nice to me. Now if only I had more experience I could use it more to it's full potential.
 
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Thanks!



All the lengths are documented. I've thought about that before, but it would be a huge headache. First I would have to source oem plugs, which I don't know where to find, plus everybody's setup is different. I couldn't possibly account for every combination of parts and locations of parts to make harnesses like that. I think I've given a decent amount of info in this thread for anyone who wants to attempt it themselves though, although it is a daunting task.

I've found where to get them... However you must order in HUGE bulks... I mean huge.
 
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