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Is my timing belt too loose?

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krummel21

15+ Year Contributor
497
1
May 4, 2004
Charles City, Iowa
I had my headgasket replaced at a chrysler dealership in Tennesse because I brok down driving back from florida. I had them do the work and I'm not sure if the timing belt is loose. I drove back from tennessee without problems. Here is a pictures of the timing belt right after I turned off the car. If there is something else I can do to make it easier to see if it too loose let me know.

Thanks
 

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If your this worried about it take these steps.

Turn your crank to TDC and line up your timing marks to verify your mechanical timing. (Note- your going to have to pull your upper/lower timing covers to do this.)

Next, check the gap between your tensioner arm and your auto tensioner body.

This is the gap(incase you didn't know). Disregard the image on the left. You can check the gap with a drill bit between the location shown. Size of drill bit needed is anywhere between .15"-.18".
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If your not capable/willing of doing this, and your still worried, take it to a mechanic and have them verify this for you. I hope this helps.
 
I think the holes on the tensioner pulley in relation to a clock is just a generic check and not something you should be really looking at. The tensioner is what is going to be your main focus if you're setting timing. You need to find the point where the pin is able to be inserted/removed, even after rotating over by hand and letting sit for 15 minutes.

The gap check that Justin mentioned above is also something to use as a basis, but I have found it does not work on my car for some reason. It works for some and not for others.
 
Did you push the timing belt down at all or is that the way it just was? Mine is loose when I let it sit overnight but when I turn it off it is still tight. There should be only about 1/4 in play up and down in the belt when it sits.
 
I think the holes on the tensioner pulley in relation to a clock is just a generic check and not something you should be really looking at. The tensioner is what is going to be your main focus if you're setting timing. You need to find the point where the pin is able to be inserted/removed, even after rotating over by hand and letting sit for 15 minutes.

The gap check that Justin mentioned above is also something to use as a basis, but I have found it does not work on my car for some reason. It works for some and not for others.

Right. I'm still of the belief that he has nothing to worry about. If I had a digital camera I could show you a pic of the timing belt on my talon. My belt has looked like that for 40,000 miles. I did do the timing myself though so that is my reassurance.LOL
 
What do you mean by, "find the point where the pin is able to be inserted/removed"? What do I do to find this out? Do I take the tensioner off the car and see how strong it is or do I rotate the crank and it should line up at some point?

Thanks
 
What do you mean by, "find the point where the pin is able to be inserted/removed"? What do I do to find this out? Do I take the tensioner off the car and see how strong it is or do I rotate the crank and it should line up at some point?

Thanks

This will be found when you're setting the tensioner pulley. So when you're rotating it, you should be playing with the pin in and out lightly. When you get to the point where you've rotated the pulley the least amount and the pin is able to slide in and out freely, hold the pulley position there for a few minutes. This will allow the tensioner to settle in. If you don't wait and just tighten down the pulley bolt, you'll find that after 2 minutes, the resistance of the pin will change, sometimes to the point where you can't remove it at all. After you wait a few minutes, check the pin again. If it's still able to go in and out very easily, tighten down the bolt. If not, realign the pulley to find that sweet spot. Keep in mind when tightening down the bolt that you might rotate the pulley, so do this very carefully. You might even need to switch the pressure direction once you get the bolt snug so that you're pushing in the opposite direction you have been to keep it from rotating more.
 
I did the 6 bolt swap and I'm not able to depress the auto tensioner through the hole like is shown in the vfaq. will it hurt anything if i just unbolt it from the block with out depressing it?
 
Since you have a 6 bolt in a 2G you have to remove the auto tensioner and compress it in a vise. Loosen the tensioner pulley first to loosen up the t-belt and then remove the auto tensioner. Compress it slowly otherwise you may damage it.
 
Not enough tension was applied to the belt via the tensioner pulley. On a 6 bolt the pulley has to be rotated clockwise to tighten the belt.

Increasing belt tension=smaller gap
 
If you start it up it'll sound like a supercharger and whine. I'm not sure of any physical effects, other than too much strain on the belt.

If you want to remove the tensioner and redo it, just follow romeen's instructions. When I compress it in a vice, I do 1/2 turn or less on the vice handle very slowly and then let it sit for about 20-30 seconds between turns. It'll take you a few minutes or more to compress, but that's better than busting the seal and having to buy a new tensioner.
 
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