The BS was more of a comfort than anything. I associate the squirters with having a better reason to be there aka cooling the piston. It doesn't hurt to have them. All depends on what setup you end up running.

A friend of mine did a rebuild on his engine ang found some of the sqirters missing, killing his oil pressure.

When I built my 2.3L I blocked off the squirters. Ran it for over 15k miles w/ no issues.

The squirters are designed to cool the stock cast pistons. Any aftermarket forged piston has been built and designed around not using any type of squirter to cool it, so its not required.

forged pistons expand more than cast pistons. if anything they need more oil cooling than cast pistons. otherwise they can expand too much and score your bores. its not a good idea to remove them. even non turbo engines comes with squirters nowadays

the only place I feel its okay to remove them is in a drag car.

94awdcoupe said:

forged pistons expand more than cast pistons. if anything they need more oil cooling than cast pistons. otherwise they can expand too much and score your bores. its not a good idea to remove them. even non turbo engines comes with squirters nowadays

the only place I feel its okay to remove them is in a drag car.

Click to expand...

i would not be removing them,
4g64's dont come with them stock, so i would have to find some place that could machine the block so i could install them

I picked up a N/T 6 bolt block and they don't come with oil squirters. I might be using this for my stroker build.

i guess the real question is it ok on a DD to have no oil squirters?

i will take the car to drag strip maybe once a month and hopefully the car will see some time RR

The way I see it is keep them if you can. A lot of guys do the balance shaft deletion. When you do this you have high oil pressure. Now factor in you also want to close off the oil squirters. That's just going to add even more oil pressure.

Keeping the squirter cools the pistons and lowers oil pressure so you don't have to hog out that oil relief in the oil filter housing. It's a win win situation sort of.

Black94DSM said:

The way I see it is keep them if you can. A lot of guys do the balance shaft deletion. When you do this you have high oil pressure. Now factor in you also want to close off the oil squirters. That's just going to add even more oil pressure.

Keeping the squirter cools the pistons and lowers oil pressure so you don't have to hog out that oil relief in the oil filter housing. It's a win win situation sort of.

Click to expand...

that is true, help keeping the oil pressure low,

94awdcoupe said:

forged pistons expand more than cast pistons. if anything they need more oil cooling than cast pistons. otherwise they can expand too much and score your bores. its not a good idea to remove them. even non turbo engines comes with squirters nowadays

the only place I feel its okay to remove them is in a drag car.

Click to expand...

I can see why a drag car can get away with not using oil squirters.
They're on the pipe for a total of 12 seconds or less at WOT.

Now, what happens to pistons when you're on a Road Course and you're blowing copious amounts of boost at those pistons on every straight away lap after lap for over 30 minutes at a time?

No oil squirters in a pure drag, but for DDing and Road Racing, I feel they're a necessity.
AMS machined the 4G64 to put oil squirters in their 2.3RR Road Racing Stroker, so I'll take note and machine my block to accept 1g/Evo type oil squirters!

i guess ill just go with a 2.0 and leave the stock 2g squirters instead of dealing with a 2.4 and geting them machined in

You must eliminate the 2g oil squirters, if you don't at least replace them all with brand new tested ones.
If you're not Road Racing, then don't do oil squirters at all.
It really isn't much to have the machine shop machine your block for oil squirters.

From SoCalEvo.net
Re: My 4G64 block after machine work *PICS*

Here's the pricing for some of the work I had done:

CNC machine block for oil jets: $150
Bore/Hone with torque plate: $206
Machine block for o-ring wire: $150
Install o-ring wire: $93.75
Surface deck true to mains: $150
Crack check block: $30

You may be able to find machine work for cheaper, but you get what you pay for. I am more concerned about the quality than the price. I talked with the guys at LESCO and they said they are willing to lower the price if they could do multiple blocks at once. $150 to CNC the oil jets in the block is very reasonable.

$150 for CNC machining and peace of mind is all good with me...

Im building my 4G64 currently and we have drilled and tapped the block for the squirters, only problem is when I called my local (60 miles away) dealership to order new squirters he cant get them. Apparantly Mitsubishi has discontinued them. Didnt seem right to me as they still use squirters in EVO's, right?

Anybody have a source to get ahold of some squirters and the washers? The complete assembly is 4 parts and I got the 1G part numbers from CAPS.
MF 660034 Gasket apparantly you need 2 of these one for either side of the Jet
MF 472549 Spring Pin
MD 040400 Oil Jet
MD 050249 Check Valve

I think the part numbers are the same for 6 Bolts and 7 Bolts with the exception of the Oil Jet. Caps has an alternate part number listed as MD 195084 which is for 7 Bolt blocks.

evo oil jet is better than 1g. fits nicer. less likely to hit crank
mn143460

MN143460 - Oil Squirter - $11.03, 4 Req'd
MD372046 - Check Valve - $16.75, 4 Req'd
MF472550 - Spring Pin - $0.53, 4 Req'd
Parts Total - $113.24
***EDIT, Look below for reason***

I got these part prices from Mentor Mitsubishi.
Mentor Mitsubishi Parts

I will be using these exact parts in my engine build.
Here's a pic from CAPS that shows you the required parts.

Awesome, thanks for the help!

evo 8 does not use any washers. thats why they are not in picture,

94awdcoupe said:

evo 8 does not use any washers. thats why they are not in picture,

Click to expand...

You are positively correct sir.
My Apologies...

Here is a look at an image from CAPS of the 1g 6-bolt Oil Squirters.
1g 7-bolt Oil Squirters look exactly the same except the squirter itself is a different part number.
Look at the following posts for current 1g 6-bolt, 1g 7-bolt and Evo Oil Squirter part numbers.
Notice the use of Copper Crush Washers on 1g 4G63's.

These are current part numbers for 1g 6-bolt Oil Squirter Assemblies.
Part number MD040400 was superceded by part number MD329806.

These are current part numbers for 1g 7-bolt Oil Squirter Assemblies.
Part number MD195084 was superceded by part number MD329807.