you can disconnect the upper ball joint and pivot the knuckle forward to get the axle out of the hub. but you still need the damper fork off, so you may have to cut both sides of the bolt off, spread the fork open a bit to get it off and the axle should come right out.

as far as the control arm bushing goes, that does happen alot i believe, at least to me. but you will have to drill out the old stud left in there, heating it will melt the bushing and most likely not get it out still. or you can get another new, or from a junk yard. i think they can be pressed out but i dont think the bushing itself is available because it wasnt last time i needed one. if you drill it or get another one put the new bolt in with anti seize or axle grease and it'll come off next time.

also, the ball joint is molded in the lower arms, the upper is changeable. but there is a recall on second gen's lower arm ball joint, i forget whether its the compression or lateral arm though, ill try to find the link to the info, or maybe someone can clarify this.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/3532-2g-ball-joint-lower-lateral-control-arm-recall-merged.html

Levesque said:

...Or an easier way to get the axles out? So I can take the engine out ? ...

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If all you want to do is remove engine you may not have to remove any ball joints or the axel from the hub! This works on a 2gT and it may work on a 2gnt also. Just unbolt the 2 lower arms at the chassis end and remove the damper fork bolt and the entire assembly will swing out far enough to pull the axles out of the tranny (pry axle out the first inch with a flat blade screwdriver between the inner CV housing and tranny on each side of that housing 180 apart). Move tranny axle end out of tranny and down where it won't bump into anything.

^^yes this does work as well, i have done it without problems, but if you're wanting to go ahead and replace them id take them out just to get them completely out of the way. just my .02, hope the helps