thanks just discovered how to do it

have another question in order to make it work after downloading the rom need to write a definition or just download and I am ready to go? I don´t have that clear

Ceddy said:

You need to put EM2055.xml in ->
C:\Program Files\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi\eclipse\

Click to expand...

This is the definition. You may need to add to it as more addresses and functions are mapped.

_Madman_ said:

To do some fancy stuff you need to dissemble the ROM via disassembler like Ida Pro, figure out how sensors are operating, and then patch the binary image.

It's not programming in a straight sense of word.

Click to expand...

Then I have more learning to do than I though. Thanks for pointing me to the starting line.

God this are good news

Ceddy I fallowed your How to 2G EPROM Tuning and its great to tune with TunerPro

But now this is way better not to be messing with chips and socketing
Already bought a 98 5spd GST ECU, soon the OpenPort 2.0 and will try the reflash

So what you have found so far is good enough to tune AFR and Timing ?
Any new discovery on the definition ?

ed_GST said:

God this are good news

Ceddy I fallowed your How to 2G EPROM Tuning and its great to tune with TunerPro

But now this is way better not to be messing with chips and socketing
Already bought a 98 5spd GST ECU, soon the OpenPort 2.0 and will try the reflash

So what you have found so far is good enough to tune AFR and Timing ?
Any new discovery on the definition ?

Click to expand...

If You are already burning chips (so You have an eeprom ecu) and are familiar to ecu editing, why don't just buy an ostrich instead?

ed_GST said:

God this are good news

Ceddy I fallowed your How to 2G EPROM Tuning and its great to tune with TunerPro

But now this is way better not to be messing with chips and socketing
Already bought a 98 5spd GST ECU, soon the OpenPort 2.0 and will try the reflash

So what you have found so far is good enough to tune AFR and Timing ?
Any new discovery on the definition ?

Click to expand...

Yeah all the basic stuff is ready, fuel, timing, injectors etc.

I'm trying to add some extras, like a Knock Gauge Conversion, Map Switching(Maps for pump and race gas with a flip of switch), and elimination of Emissions CELs.

I have made some good progress, but the extras are probably won't be ready for a while.


Have you opened up your 98 GST ECU? If the board has JE331B156C printed on it, it should be compatible with my 98 GSX image and def.

mikyrc said:

If You are already burning chips (so You have an eeprom ecu) and are familiar to ecu editing, why don't just buy an ostrich instead?

Click to expand...

I find the re-flash to be more practical for few reasons:
-does the same as using EPROM + TunerPro or even more as the definition get sorted out
-no need for chips
-newer ECU (95 vs 98-99)
-datalogging speed on this ECU is faster (not sure about that)
-since i don't have and emulator i have to burn install datalog then burn again and repeat the cycle


I have the EPROM and will give a try to Flash tuning to find out which works best for me

ed_GST said:

I find the re-flash to be more practical for few reasons:
-does the same as using EPROM + TunerPro or even more as the definition get sorted out
-no need for chips
-newer ECU (95 vs 98-99)
-datalogging speed on this ECU is faster (not sure about that)
-since i don't have and emulator i have to burn install datalog then burn again and repeat the cycle


I have the EPROM and will give a try to Flash tuning to find out which works best for me

Click to expand...

Ok, I see. Some of those reasons are enough.

But the ostrich I was tellin You is an eprom, emulator. I'm uing it and is awesome. No more burning chips anymore. Just connect the netbook, open tunerpro RT modify whatever I want and hit the button and in less than two seconds I can start the engine and test it.

The downside is the price but it's worth.

Ceddy said:

Have you opened up your 98 GST ECU? If the board has JE331B156C printed on it, it should be compatible with my 98 GSX image and def.

Click to expand...

Will let you know as soon as it gets here.

i wish i have took my Assembly Language class, will do this semester

Looking the tractix cable... which should i buy ?

The OpenPort 2.0 with the Full Adapter Set or just the OpenPort 2.0 alone?

Boost control was mentioned. You do realize that stock DSM's have a 3-port 'boost control' solenoid under the hood stock right? It's called the FPS (fuel pressure solenoid), and so far it's working great for me as a boost controller instead of for it's totally useless stock implementation. It's also a heck of a lot better than the bleeder style implementation of the stock BCS. It looks quite similar to the $93 BCS on tactrix.com. Now I don't have to have a boost curve that starts out high and tapers, I can do the exact opposite (nice for saving my tranny from the torque hit of the 16G), or just have rock solid consistent boost.

i'm interested on seeing pic of it installed
and what do you use to control it ?

jrohner said:

Boost control was mentioned. You do realize that stock DSM's have a 3-port 'boost control' solenoid under the hood stock right? It's called the FPS (fuel pressure solenoid), and so far it's working great for me as a boost controller instead of for it's totally useless stock implementation. It's also a heck of a lot better than the bleeder style implementation of the stock BCS. It looks quite similar to the $93 BCS on tactrix.com. Now I don't have to have a boost curve that starts out high and tapers, I can do the exact opposite (nice for saving my tranny from the torque hit of the 16G), or just have rock solid consistent boost.

Click to expand...

Would you post some more information on this or point me toward a link? I'm running about 23psi on a stock 16g actuator and I'd like to run much less in first and second gear. The boost control itself I'll figure out I was just curious what it took to remove the FPR solenoid without running into any snags.

the_mork said:

Would you post some more information on this or point me toward a link? I'm running about 23psi on a stock 16g actuator and I'd like to run much less in first and second gear. The boost control itself I'll figure out I was just curious what it took to remove the FPR solenoid without running into any snags.

Click to expand...

I didn't know anyone still ran the FPS, as it's pointless. You just take it off, and that's it. The only CEL's I had with the EPROM ECU were o2 heaters and the MDPS that was dead, and on the Evo 8 ECU I just had to disable the CEL's (all emissions removed, including stock o2 sensors) with periphery and the o2 heater patch. It's nice to finally not have the CEL on, and it blinks for knock because I'm using the Tephramod (not like it's very useful when running E85 though).

It doesn't look like the boost control stuff has been figured out in the DSM ECU here, but there is quite a lot of stuff for boost control on the Evo ECU on EvolutionM. There's even gear based boost control. I haven't tried gear based yet, but I'm going to have to get that set up on mine as I was burning the tires pretty hard last night at the drags in this humidity (and I already was running a pretty soft boost curve).

Whats the main purpose of ecu controlled boost?

I see how it would be good for traction control for a FWD or high power AWD.
But I don't fully understand its purpose on a factory AWD.

Here are the pictures of one of the flashable ECUs

Part number: MD359403
Production dates: 6/98-4/99
ID: E2T68283

PCB code: JE331B156D

For a better understanding of those ECUs we need to know which CPU pins correspond to which output pins. Does anyone here have a fried ECU for sale?

Thanks for the Pics MadMan.

Is the other large chip a "E328" "7BA1Y6J"?, can't find a cross reference for this.

Checking the pin connections on mine I found the cpu is in Mode 4. Ports 1 and 2 are used as a data bus.

Also I tried tracing pins with a ohm meter, but capacitors and transistors/drivers in series block this. I tried by eye, but the traces jump from top of the board to the bottom like ten time and some of the the traces go under the chips. Gave up eventually.

Also I found the Baud Rates for the diagnostics protocols, you can turn MUT up to 62500 baud and it still works.

Ceddy said:

Is the other large chip a "E328" "7BA1Y6J"?, can't find a cross reference for this.

Click to expand...

Well, I scratched off the protective coating from that chip and it's ID is still unreadable Maybe someone has a board with a better print on it...

_Madman_ said:

Here are the pictures of one of the flashable ECUs

Part number: MD359403
Production dates: 6/98-4/99
ID: E2T68283

PCB code: JE331B156D

Click to expand...

I opened up mine to compare, but no pics...

Part Number: MD 346675
Production Dates: 7/97-5/98
ID: E2T68273

PCB Code: JE331B156C

I tried to compare as close as I could, and everything looks exactly the same as yours.

draculia said:

I opened up mine to compare, but no pics...

Part Number: MD 346675
Production Dates: 7/97-5/98
ID: E2T68273

PCB Code: JE331B156C

I tried to compare as close as I could, and everything looks exactly the same as yours.

Click to expand...

Can anyone confirm that the MD 346675 is flashable?

Sublime_06 said:

Can anyone confirm that the MD 346675 is flashable?

Click to expand...

Yes, thats the same ecu I have. Now that we know the 99s also have the 7202F cpu, all 98/99s should be flashable.

Ceddy said:

Whats the main purpose of ecu controlled boost?

I see how it would be good for traction control for a FWD or high power AWD.
But I don't fully understand its purpose on a factory AWD.

Click to expand...

The parts are already on the car from the factory.

Load based targets for better safety (or psi based targets if you feel like it).

Adjust boost without ever opening the hood.

Variable boost for better traction or to save transmission parts from meeting the asphalt in low gears.

Knock control, a certain knock count, lean condition, or anything else can trigger partial or complete cut in boost pressure.

Alt map control, run a daily boost level then switch to a different map and boost level with the flip of a switch without having to double check and dial everything in.


I'm sure there are more advantages but those are the ones off the top of my head.

the_mork said:

The parts are already on the car from the factory.

Load based targets for better safety (or psi based targets if you feel like it).

Adjust boost without ever opening the hood.

Variable boost for better traction or to save transmission parts from meeting the asphalt in low gears.

Knock control, a certain knock count, lean condition, or anything else can trigger partial or complete cut in boost pressure.

Alt map control, run a daily boost level then switch to a different map and boost level with the flip of a switch without having to double check and dial everything in.


I'm sure there are more advantages but those are the ones off the top of my head.

Click to expand...

Here's another advantage. . .

Most AWD guys kill transmissions because of the toque hit. If you can have boost ramp up instead of hit hard at the track and, say, be full on only after 5600rpms, you still get most of the powerband you want at the track and not shock the tranny so much. This is good for guys with 450whp + setups. . . I'm doing the same thing with link and the nitrous control stuff. For street driving, I'll be just running lower boost but having the spool ramp up normally (faster) for better feel on the street. At the track, shifting from 2nd at 7500rpms to infamous stripping 3rd puts you at about 5K. Shifting from 3rd at 7500rpms to the next weakest 4th puts you at 5400rpms. Less to think about during the run, no need to roll into the throttle for the sake of your panzy drivetrain.

Ceddy said:

Whats the main purpose of ecu controlled boost?

I see how it would be good for traction control for a FWD or high power AWD.
But I don't fully understand its purpose on a factory AWD.

Click to expand...

No boost taper! I can hold as much boost as I want with my 16G (my car didn't like 30+psi @ 7 grand however). I also smoothed the crazy drivetrain breaking torque hit.

jrohner said:

No boost taper! I can hold as much boost as I want with my 16G (my car didn't like 30+psi @ 7 grand however). I also smoothed the crazy drivetrain breaking torque hit.

Click to expand...

So ecu controlled boost, better controls an internally gated 16G, helps with the spike, creep, and taper that the internal gated 16Gs are know for.

I see that it would be useful for traction/torque limiting, but there seems to more to the boost control maps then just load limiting.