Less than 12 bucks I'd say.

Yea i figured..

This doesnt seem like a job i can do myself though.. I dont want to mess anything up.. Would it cost alot to have a shop do it?

I'm not sure what they'd charge.

How old are your timing components? If you're going to pay for a front main replacement you minds well do all the timing at the same time and the waterpump too.

All of that stuff is 30k miles old.

Man i hope this stuff doesnt cost me a fortune. I was trying to sell the car, but now i think ill just keep it and mod it some more after all the recent things ive done to it...


Shane

just clean off where the oil is, make everything nice and oil free.
drive it around for a little while and find out where the leak is..

dont condemn yourself before you know...
it could just be a small gasket somewhere. never know till you try

Really it's not THAT hard to change the front main if you have to.
Resetting the timing is what makes it time consuming but not difficult.

Click to expand...

Once you get all of that stuff off the end of the motor, it's about a 10 minute job to do a seal changeout-what is so aggravating about the whole thing-taking the time to take apart and put back on for such a small part.

Sorry in spooking you, for when you mentioned above that the motor has that low miles on the rebuild, I can't imagine seeing seals failing that quick.

Is then I can see the arguments of other leak possibilities that were mentioned. My apologies.

Good luck in your find-DSM

EDIT: look into catch cans for both breather hose and PVC hose if you want to eliminate oil soaking into these areas.

Nice diagram on post #20. Many people also splice in a Fram gas filter (G2, I believe) on the hose between the left side valve cover and intake. It's an inexpensive way to help keep oil blowoff out of your intake and still maintain the integrity of the original design.

Drubble said:

Nice diagram on post #20. Many people also splice in a Fram gas filter (G2, I believe) on the hose between the left side valve cover and intake. It's an inexpensive way to help keep oil blowoff out of your intake and still maintain the integrity of the original design.

Click to expand...

I would like to see this.. I really dont want to see ANY oil in my intake.. It just doesnt sound good.. Having anything sliding down into the turbo..

Shane

Here is what a FRAM G2 setup looks like with this link:

Install a catch can for your DSM (2G)


..and it's funny that the writer of this small mod mentions "Over time, you will notice some oil collecting in the bottom of your filter - this is normal. You just pull it off, dump it out and reinstall as you did above. Simple hey?" - Not even thinking that the paper element will be totally saturated with oil preventing any sort of vacuum or pressure draw...

You don't put back on your old oil filter after you dumped out the oil from it on an oil change, do yas?



Sad thing about doing the FRAM G2 gas filter catch can idea is that when that plastic envelope gets halfway filled with oil along with the paper element inside totally saturated with oil, it will drastically reduce the needed vacuum draw that the intake needs to pull via the PVC valve ...

...and vice versa when boost kicks in and the PVC valve is then shut tight due to when the manifold looses vacuum and reverts to forced induction - where is your blowby gas gonna head to when that G2 filter is all restricted with a soaked inner paper element?


Either might blow out both main seals and/or blow out the dipstick...and you DON't want the prior to ever happen (and I've already spooked the OP on the front main being bad...in which with his existing breather on the head cover: this could be the reason for his leakage-blowby that can't be evicted out of the block and it will find a weak area to head to....and the seals are the first place excessive crank pressure will find to exit out of since the tube that holds the dipstick is so small and restrictive..)

Do a search on proper catch can procedures that really works to remove blowby oil and this link above does have three links that wil guide you for professional catch can products and installs.

-Dang, full of scary possibilities here ... - DSM

The correct way to do it is with 2 catch cans.

Your car was made with oil going back into the intake tract. ITS NOT HARMFUL (unless you're spraying it in excess). Mitsu designed it from the factory that way.

So what should i do? Just hook it back up? Isnt that the stock way anyway? Plus once i fix my PCV valve, wont the amount of oil coming from there be minimal to begin with?

Shane

I don't know if you pee'd off that filter on the rocker cover to eliminate
if that caused most of your leak. The 'O' ring seal on your CAS shaft can
cause a leak to run down from your head & end up everywhere.
Cheers !

deputy865 said:

So what should i do? Just hook it back up? Isnt that the stock way anyway? Plus once i fix my PCV valve, wont the amount of oil coming from there be minimal to begin with?

Shane

Click to expand...

I give up.

Goodluck

nlzn said:

I give up.

Goodluck

Click to expand...

Lol please dont.. PM me.. Im just getting overwhelmed with info.. You've helped me from the start.

Mitsu designed it from the factory that way.

Click to expand...

Interesting. Any possible explanation why Mitsu engineered it this way, for I'm curious on this one...thx-DSM

Your car was made with oil going back into the intake tract. ITS NOT HARMFUL

Click to expand...

What's all interesting is that a lot of normally aspirated cars that I've worked with-one way or another-I've had to clean out the intake hose that runs between the aircan and intake mani and wash out the oil residue that accumulates inside this hose - just one of those things when a column of air in the intake hose is under vacuum, or even negative air pressure to draw oil vapors from the head through the breather connection.

pcv to an oil catch can, then to the inlet mani is even better than std.
Other breather to a separate catch can, then to atmos
Cheers !

AWD_Hybrid said:

pcv to an oil catch can, then to the inlet mani is even better than std.
Other breather to a separate catch can, then to atmos
Cheers !

Click to expand...

The "correct" way is PCV > catch can > check valve > IM (or leave the check valve out if you want to pressurize your catch can) .... and ... breather > catch can > intake snorkel... (or to air, if you like oily mist everywhere).

There's 10 pages in this thread that explains about every experiment that's been done on the PCV system, and why there's only TWO (2)...count them...TWO... setups that work properly; the one I described above, and one that bypasses the PCV completely and just runs lines to a catch can from the VC (which isn't ideal but works for high HP/race setups with frequent oil changes).

Yet we still get 238213873 posts a week on the PCV system. Amazing.

Got me I forgot the check valve after the can.
My atmos one looks conected to the intake snorkel, bar a ball bearing
inside the hose A rear exit, not seen, goes to subframe level.
Cheers !

AWD_Hybrid said:

My atmos one looks conected to the intake snorkel, bar a ball bearing inside the hose A rear exit, not seen, goes to subframe level.

Click to expand...

Well... you completely lost me there

calan said:

Well... you completely lost me there

Click to expand...

If you were the law & looked, you'd see breather to can > to intake.
But a ball bearing is in the hose to intake. I didn't put it in there
The bit you blind cops can't see, is the hose coming out the rear to ground ;]
Cheers !

Does anyone have pictures of the propper ways to do this?

deputy865 said:

Does anyone have pictures of the propper ways to do this?

Click to expand...

Yeah... In the thread I mentioned 4 posts back ^^^.

Here's the correct diagram for the 2 catch can setup:

Do i hate to use 2 of them? There like $50 a peice.. Unless i can get them cheaper elsewhere?

I was just going to replace my PCV valve and put a catch can between the VC and intake. Still trying to learn a little more about all this.

Shane

deputy865 said:

Do i hate to use 2 of them? There like $50 a peice.. Unless i can get them cheaper elsewhere?

I was just going to replace my PCV valve and put a catch can between the VC and intake. Still trying to learn a little more about all this.

Shane

Click to expand...

You don't "have" to use any catch cans at all. If you use just one, you can decide if you'd rather have oil in your intake manifold or oil in your intake pipe/turbo.

To be honest...and this is just my unproven theory...99% of the catch cans you'll find (ok...all of them) don't do a good enough job of removing oil, but they are better than nothing. I won't get into specifics, but it has to do with many not being baffled, and even the ones that are baffled don't have any filtering mechanism to remove sub-micron oil aerosols and vapor. BTW - I'm working on this

deputy865 said:

I have a leak on the drivers side of my.. Its dripping from around my oil filter area. Any ideas? Ill try to provide as much info and pictures as i can.. Oil is also coming from the little filter to the left of my valve cover.. The name escapes me right now... But as you can see, oil is alll over the oil pan and such.. Think its just the gasket or whatever seals the oil pan and oil filter housing?

I just replaced the valve cover gasket not too long ago. Its not leaking from around there from what i can see.

Here are some pictures i have:

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Please help me out. I want to get this taken care of asap so i can sell the car. I searched and couldnt find anything similar..

Thanks,

Shane

Click to expand...

check the valve cover itself; the other day, I was cleaning mine for a valve cover gasket and someone had put apoxy on a small hairline fracture on the valve cover. Well, either redo the apoxy or get another cover, found a larger one for $70 and new gasket and no more leaks.