I searched-and didn't find much info on the South Bend clutches. I dont mind an ACT but with my, and many others issues with them recently, I'd like to stay away.

On paper-they look great. Anyone have any experience with them? I would need it to hold 600ish Ft lbs....

Considering my power level, I am also looking at twin discs. So far, the best option I have found was A Tilton with their 870hp cover, and rally discs. $800+shipping, and I will have to "Fuzion" it onto my flywheel.....

Any other options, opinions, or better pricing would be appreciated.

I would go twin disk man, you can get a quatermaster up or a few hundred more and i bet it will last longer, hold better, and your left leg wont be huge!


Modern Automotive Performance  :: DSM  :: Drivetrain  :: Clutch Kits  :: QuarterMaster  :: QuarterMaster Twin Disc 7.25" V-Drive Clutch / Flywheel (DSM)

QuarterMaster twin disc clutch kit- 90-99 6 bolt : JNZ Tuning

a review

JNZ Tuning

a the guy doin the review is well know dsmer

MAP used to be one of my customers-I will give him a ring.

If it was not clear-this is for my RX-7 (with 4G64). So, there is no clutch made for my application-hence the Fusion.

I would go with the Quarter Master 7.25" twin for your setup -- it is the best of ALL worlds (shifting, clutch disengagement, heat capacity, reduced MOI's, rebuildable, torque capacity, etc., reduced weight, price, etc.).

Actually, there are several threads concerning the South Bend Clutch Kevlar disk setup, and several on the twin disks.

600+tq is maxing out the SBC clutch, and it doesn't have the clutch disengagement quality of a twin disk.

Best bang-for-the-buck clutch -- Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive twin disk.


Edit -- If you have more money to spend, then go for a 4.5" carbon-V triple disk, a 4G64 flexplate, and a custom drilled button flywheel with automatic flexplate bolts, and a QM radial TOB with a custom bracket. It will be the last clutch you will ever purchase, but you will have to pay with a fat wallet to get it.

Good luck,

twicks69 said:

I would go with the Quarter Master 7.25" twin for your setup -- it is the best of ALL worlds (shifting, clutch disengagement, heat capacity, reduced MOI's, rebuildable, torque capacity, etc., reduced weight, price, etc.).

Actually, there are several threads concerning the South Bend Clutch Kevlar disk setup, and several on the twin disks.

600+tq is maxing out the SBC clutch, and it doesn't have the clutch disengagement quality of a twin disk.

Best bang-for-the-buck clutch -- Quarter Master 7.25" V-Drive twin disk.


Edit -- If you have more money to spend, then go for a 4.5" carbon-V triple disk, a 4G64 flexplate, and a custom drilled button flywheel with automatic flexplate bolts, and a QM radial TOB with a custom bracket. It will be the last clutch you will ever purchase, but you will have to pay with a fat wallet to get it.

Good luck,

Click to expand...

Is the Tilton not rebuildable?

As far as the SB goes-I would just use their PP in conjunction with my ACT 6 puck disc.


I have a little over 3k into the car (car included) as it sits, with build motor, 600+whp, and ready to make 800ish. Money IS an issue, thats why Im hesitant on the twin disc, but I dont want to run into shifting issues again!

Thanks for the input on the tipple..

PTT twin disc w/the bronze sintered discs and call it a day. Who designed the quartermaster clutch? Why Steve Fox, the owner of PTT

Street Surgeon said:

PTT twin disc w/the bronze sintered discs and call it a day. Who designed the quartermaster clutch? Why Steve Fox, the owner of PTT

Click to expand...

The PTT and the QM 7.25" V-Drive with the rally disks are nearly identical altogether, and share most of their parts.

I am also using the PTT chromoly flywheel with my QM clutch since that was the only one out 2 years ago when I did my twin-disk on the 7-bolt.

If you do go 7.25" twin-disk and use a custom flywheel or a PTT/QM modified flywheel, be sure to check the flywheel thickness at the flywheel mounting bolts -- the PTT flywheel is thinner than the old Fidanza I was running before, requiring a shorter flywheel bolt (use the automatic flex plate bolts -- they are the proper length).

Or use nordlock lockwashers so that 2.3l won't back out the flywheel bolts. Thus your bolts won't bottom out in the crank AND won't back themselves out

Street Surgeon said:

Or use nordlock lockwashers so that 2.3l won't back out the flywheel bolts. Thus your bolts won't bottom out in the crank AND won't back themselves out

Click to expand...

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but... Has anyone used these Nordlock Washers on the flywheel bolts?
I would love to have the security of these with my PTT setup. I would have to get the longer OEM bolts though.

2gAWDTalon said:

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but... Has anyone used these Nordlock Washers on the flywheel bolts?
I would love to have the security of these with my PTT setup. I would have to get the longer OEM bolts though.

Click to expand...

If you do this, be sure that the bolt heads clear the clutch disk assembly.

I have not had any problems with flywheel bolts backing out when properly torqued along with Loctite Red and torque checking prior to installation of the clutch assembly.

Be sure to use a proper Loctite product that is listed here:
Threadlockers, Thread Sealers, Gasketing, Retaining. Loctite® Anaerobic Adhesives For Professionals.
I usually use Loctite Red 262 (general use), 271(oversize bolts) or 268 (gel stick) for flywheel bolts, and 262 for high-vibration application bolts.

The most important thing is to have the proper length flywheel bolts being used for your application depending on the thickness of the flywheel mounting flange so that you are using the most of the thread surface in the crank without bottoming out the bolt in the base of the crank bolt holes. I have a thread on here with the bolt lengths for OEM flywheel bolts to use in your application depending on flywheel mounting flange thickness and crank used.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/266455-ptt-twin-disk-flywheel-bolts.html

Check out posts #12 and #15.
I hope this helps!

Tim, how are those measured? The bolts I ran last year were too long as you can see here:





This year I Tried to get the right bolts, I wish I would have found the thread you showed me before I ordered new bolts but the bolts I have this year are ALOT shorter. I am worried they are the wrong bolts (too short). They are Alot shorter!
I am also running a steel MAP flywheel this year and I had a aluminum, early PTT last year.
So I can verify what bolts I have, is it measured from the top of the head? The top of the shank?
Thanks!

The length mention is referring to the thread length from the shank to the end of the threads.