you pulling oil from the filter housing or from the head?

Ok guy I recieved that oil pump but it is much smaller than I thought it was going to be

But!!! I think it still may work. Im going to try to test the flow of it and see if it going to be good enough. Ill post a video when im done testing.

squeak104 said:

Here is a picture of my drain. -10 AN pushlock.

Click to expand...

Nice looking setup for sure. If only the -10AN lines were bigger....


Here's a very simple setup I made recently for a customer's 6-bolt running a 5031E:



It's a 2G oil drain (largest I.D. of the three drain choices) with a piece of 3/4" silicone hose in the center. The 2G drain cost $11 brand new from JNZ, and aside from cutting it to add the piece of hose the only other mod that was done was to cut the flange slightly at the top to fit the larger T3 drain flange. I sealed it at the top using a T3 drain gasket and some Gray RTV, and the fit / finish is very professional.

Of course the front motor mount had to be trimmed....the drain for the the 5031E faced directly into the motor mount.

For those on a budget, this line is the way to go for under $20....you just have to be careful not to overtighten the clamps or you'll crush the aluminum drain pipe.

That's similar to what I had when I was running a 20g.

A 20G would be simple to run as shown above....simply slot the two upper flange holes toward center slightly and you're good to go. The placement of the Garrett's oil drain prompted an additional piece of hose to lengthen the drain slightly.

it looks so simple it might just be what i do it will save me like a whole lot of money

The "FP Blue" drain tube has an ID of .375'', by far the worst. Wish I hadn't bought this thing.

I put the elbow in today, took a little bit of fussing but once the oil got the hose wet it slid right on. I didn't cut any material away, I just split it in two and it turned out great. You can see now that there is no way for it to kink and the lower hose runs straight into the oil pan, I would have liked it to have been at a slight angle but I think that's fine.

its looking good, i think i got some insperation now

1stGenTSi said:

The "FP Blue" drain tube has an ID of .375'', by far the worst. Wish I hadn't bought this thing.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I was surprised to see that too. Years ago, I received an FP drain with a used turbo that I bought off a guy. I was surprised to see that they used such a small diameter hose (-8), but I used the thing for a year and I never had an issue...

will that 2g drain work on a holset hx40?

red1993gsallmt said:

will that 2g drain work on a holset hx40?

Click to expand...

Sure, you just need a t3 drain on the turbo. Then run a piece of hose to the cut off 2g piece.

Just to add to this huge debate. If you really want to run from the ofh, you could put a regulator in the line so that not only are you controlling volume you are also controlling pressure, and you can adjust. When you put a restricter on the turbo your basically making a pressure washer. To do it correctly I would personally control it right off the housing that way it has some time to flow and loose pressure down the line and not shoot onto the turbo like a pressure washer.

Instead you could get one of these Regs and put 2 -4 fittings on it and call it a day install it right next the the OFH and now you have full control of it. Anyone think of that......?

~Andy

What could also work well is if you put the restricter right on the ofh instead of on the turbo.

donniekak said:

Sure, you just need a t3 drain on the turbo. Then run a piece of hose to the cut off 2g piece.

Click to expand...

But then im back to the restrictive fitting on the turbo.

andytalon said:

Just to add to this huge debate. If you really want to run from the ofh, you could put a regulator in the line so that not only are you controlling volume you are also controlling pressure, and you can adjust. When you put a restricter on the turbo your basically making a pressure washer. To do it correctly I would personally control it right off the housing that way it has some time to flow and loose pressure down the line and not shoot onto the turbo like a pressure washer.

Instead you could get one of these Regs and put 2 -4 fittings on it and call it a day install it right next the the OFH and now you have full control of it. Anyone think of that......?

~Andy

Click to expand...

That would keep the pressure from increasing when the rpm increase. I dont know if its good to run the same pressure at idle and redline, dont you want it to increase as the rpms increase

red1993gsallmt said:

That would keep the pressure from increasing when the rpm increase. I dont know if its good to run the same pressure at idle and redline, dont you want it to increase as the rpms increase

Click to expand...

You could set it to the max pressure you want to see. Like 60psi lets say, that way you never go over 60psi.

squeak104 said:

Here is a picture of my drain. -10 AN pushlock. My friend made me fittings to bolt to the turbo and weld onto the pan. The pushlock fittings have 3 notches on them to keep the hose from sliding off. I had to cut one notch off of each to keep the hose from kinking. The silver spring looking thing is from Goodyear to keep the hose from kinking as well.

I'm using -4 AN supply, no balance shafts, OFH ported, and the one time I put a gauge on, I was seeing about 80 psi of pressure at about 6000 rpm. I'm only on 7 lbs of boost and haven't driven it but a couple hundred miles so I guess time will tell. So far no smoking issues.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

where did u get the anti kink spring?

red1993gsallmt said:

where did u get the anti kink spring?

Click to expand...

squeak104 said:

The silver spring looking thing is from Goodyear to keep the hose from kinking as well.

Click to expand...

I know they sell them at o'reilly's.

Came up with a nice drain for my holset, i ended up drilling my 10an fittings out to 11/16ths, and using two 3/4 copper street 45s, one on each oil drain fitting, and a piece of 3/4 copper pipe between the two. No kinks and now theres no sharp 90 degree turn that might fall below the oil level in the pan

That's a really good idea.

red1993gsallmt said:

Came up with a nice drain for my holset, i ended up drilling my 10an fittings out to 11/16ths, and using two 3/4 copper street 45s, one on each oil drain fitting, and a piece of 3/4 copper pipe between the two. No kinks and now theres no sharp 90 degree turn that might fall below the oil level in the pan

Click to expand...

Not bad.................. I guess I'll be the first to ask.

Any pics?

Weapon-X said:

Not bad.................. I guess I'll be the first to ask.

Any pics?

Click to expand...

i would like to see this too!

i am currently waiting on my SBR oil lines for my HX35, i guess they ran out or something.... :/

quick question, does the hole on the actual oil pan need to be enlarged also?

I just measured my oil return flange on my turbo. It's 0.5 inches. Does that mean it's -8 AN?

More importantly, where can you buy a larger flange for both the turbo and oil pan??

I've seen a few 10 AN flanges here and there but nothing larger.

Has anyone been able to source larger flanges?

Tom

PS: My 1000th post