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Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!

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With the way that's positioned, how would the oil drain from the turbo freely to the pump? You have your drain line from the turbo, then the power steering pump position, which is either on the same level or higher than the turbo oil drain. Do you see what I'm saying? You want the drain line to be as close to vertical as possible before the pump, in your setup, it would be horizontal almost.

see I didnt think it would matter since the oil would be literally being sucked from the drain. It would be a big vacuum
 
All of the above posts, contain some good info, but I think it gets out of proportion a little. Most of the problems with oil return, are existent, because of placement of turbo, which is way too close o the motor mount. This said, in most of the cases there is some kind of angle fitting added to the oil drain flange of the turbo. This by itself causes no resriction really, but the oil coming out is so hot and thin, that when it hits the angle of that fitting, it kind of splashes there and this by itself is slowing the drainage, I think. That is why a bigger -12, or-14 line is needed in cases, where you can't eliminate the angle fitting.

BUT where is possible, if you can run the drain line STRAIGHT DOWN, then drainage shouldn't be a problem.

All of this is just my personal opinion and I don't have a proof, if it is valid
But, I will let you know very soon/ in a week/, if I have any problem.

Here are few pics of what I am talking about:

I had to gring the lip of the motor mount, but other than that nothing else. I have ERL mani, if that matters.
 

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All of the above posts, contain some good info, but I think it gets out of proportion a little. Most of the problems with oil return, are existent, because of placement of turbo, which is way too close o the motor mount. This said, in most of the cases there is some kind of angle fitting added to the oil drain flange of the turbo. This by itself causes no resriction really, but the oil coming out is so hot and thin, that when it hits the angle of that fitting, it kind of splashes there and this by itself is slowing the drainage, I think. That is why a bigger -12, or-14 line is needed in cases, where you can't eliminate the angle fitting.

BUT where is possible, if you can run the drain line STRAIGHT DOWN, then drainage shouldn't be a problem.

I understand what your saying and honestly having it straight down should work just fine, but.... with the oil pump I think there would be a little more assurance.

I think im going to purchase this cheap one on ebay and see if it works out....

I really do want to know if your works out or not.

Turbo electric oil evac pump turbo bike oil evacuation:eBay Motors (item 160325988950 end time Jun-02-09 16:34:57 PDT)
 
^^^ There is no doubt, that with the pump, would be much better. Mine idea was to make it easier. Plus for some setups, would be impossible to make it straight down, simply because of the exhaust manifold placement of the turbo.

I'll let you guys know, how it works for me.
Good luck with the pump set-up.
 
FWIW

I'm running a Function 7 .065 restrictor, -4an feed, no b/s, fed off the OFH

Return is a FP T3/T4 pushlock.

Turbo is a HX-40

Zero oiling issues.
 
i have had two holsets on my car and zero oiling issues with either of them, im in boost 24/7 in my own opinion i would place more importance on oil feed than oil return, after 10 back to back pulls i have zero oil in my turbo compressor outlet and zero oil in my turbine outlet, I also feed from the head with no BS's. so my oil pressure is already lower than most feeding from the OFH.
 
I understand what your saying and honestly having it straight down should work just fine, but.... with the oil pump I think there would be a little more assurance.

I think im going to purchase this cheap one on ebay and see if it works out....

I really do want to know if your works out or not.

Turbo electric oil evac pump turbo bike oil evacuation:eBay Motors (item 160325988950 end time Jun-02-09 16:34:57 PDT)

Let us know how this will work out for you. You'll be using the stock oil pan drain hole right? Make sure when you wire that pump up, that you get the polarity right so you are pushing oil into the oil pan, not the turbo :thumb:

I would have done this already, but I have balance shafts and I believe a regular drain line will be ok for me. Best of luck to you, but be careful with the Ebay unit...
 
Ok things seem like they are finally starting to come together. I just ordered the oil pump and it should be here sometime next week.

I need an answer one the oil feed though. Right now it seems that I will absolutely be going from the head. But im pretty sure that I have my balance shafts still in my car.... is that going to be a problem???

Also what size and what fittings and what hose do I need to use for my oil feed. it seems like I need to use 4-an but what is the size of the oil feed thats already on my holset turbo (stock oil feed) Can I just get a fitting that can go on that??

One thing that I was thinking was installing a secondary drain just in case the oil pump decides that it wants to stop working.

But im thinking just to install some kind of wire or led indicator that is telling me that the pump is working or not :)

My idea was something like this. But it looks like it would suck the oil that attempts to go to the drain LOL. dang LOL. this pic is from andy4g63, hey if you want me to take it down i understand. its your pic.

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I wish I would have known that the motor mount was in the way before I put my turbo in, I would have done it like that for sure.
But I didn't so I started today on my new fittings. i.d. is .750 and I decided to go with a flared end rather than barbed and will be using a hose clamp to ensure it secures properly. I got all the lathe work done today and tomorrow I'm going to start and hopefully finish the mill work. I can't get any pictures until I get off tomorrow because I'm on duty but I'll make sure I do right away. I just need to go find a hose that can withstand high heat. Overall I'm pretty happy with this setup so far.
 
I wish I would have known that the motor mount was in the way before I put my turbo in, I would have done it like that for sure.
But I didn't so I started today on my new fittings. i.d. is .750 and I decided to go with a flared end rather than barbed and will be using a hose clamp to ensure it secures properly. I got all the lathe work done today and tomorrow I'm going to start and hopefully finish the mill work. I can't get any pictures until I get off tomorrow because I'm on duty but I'll make sure I do right away. I just need to go find a hose that can withstand high heat. Overall I'm pretty happy with this setup so far.

im trying to use a flared end also with rubber hose and some strong clamps. It seems that is the cheapest /easiest way LOL.

but where are you getting the fitting for the oil drain? is it a standard t3 fitting??? and how are you making that a flared end?
 
im trying to use a flared end also with rubber hose and some strong clamps. It seems that is the cheapest /easiest way LOL.

but where are you getting the fitting for the oil drain? is it a standard t3 fitting??? and how are you making that a flared end?

I took a piece of 3inch Monel stock and I'm making it from scratch. I've got about 2 hours of lathe work into it including setup.
 
I honestly think that im going to go to dodge and get a stock oil drain pipe and im just going to cut it and put a hose on top of it and clap it down hard. ANd ill probably do that for the oil pan side also!!!
 
Well I got my new fittings all done today and I'm exhausted. I rushed the mill work so the quality isn't the greatest and making the angles was pretty hard since it was a manual mill. I grinded the angles after milling to smooth them out a little.
I'll probably try and install them tomorrow or Sunday.
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I got my new drain line installed. The only hose with a .750 id at the parts store was a heater hose so that's what I used. The 90 degree bend is very sharp because of the placement of the drain fittings, I noticed that before with the an line one, which makes it very hard to get a good bend without it pinching. On mine I got it to where there is a little bit of a pinch but it isn't too bad, I'll keep an eye on it though. I ran it without hose clamps yesterday and it was fine but today I'm going to go get some for the hose. Fitment was a little awkward but it was nothing a little silicone couldn't fix. I do have one small leak on the oil pan side, I'm going to scrape off the silicon and redo it and let it cure for a full 24 hours.
I got a picture of the two flanges together so you can see the difference in sizes. It's pretty significant.
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I'm hoping that the restriction of the oil pan hole won't affect it to much since the oil is getting out of the chra faster with no restriction, but it's got to be better than what I had on there before at least.
 
WIDSM.... you should make a few sets... ;)
For real! I'm not at all worried about the hole in the oil pan....it'll be off the car before the turbo ever goes on, so I'd be able to hog the sh!t out of the hole in the pan in order to max out the drainage.

I'd use silicone hose for whatever size the hose bungs take, and I'd slip a spring inside the hose to make sure it doesn't kink shut (as some longer rad hoses have springs inside them for the same purpose).
 
the spring thing sound like a good idea... hmm.. would it work on the outside to keep from obstructing flow? and yeah, i would hog the shat outta the whole with the oil pan off... but i would just weld that onto my oil pan for good measure! those are some sweet pieces! and look to be totally professionally made! that is exciting! good job man!
 
Thanks for all of the compliments guys I really appreciate it. If our cnc worked, then I'd definitely make a few sets but doing everything on manual machines is very time consuming. Any machine shop would be able to make these for you if you wanted. I would suggest stainless or something else corrosion resistant, but aluminum might be too weak with such a thin wall thickness. I just used monel because it was the first thing I found. The flanges did not need to be that thick either. I was going by the AL ones but with such a strong metal you would be fine with .200 thickness.

I like the idea of putting a spring in the hose, I don't know why I didn't think of that. I was going to go find a small plastic elbow with 3/4 id and have the hose two pieces but the spring idea is much better. I have that for my bov recirc line and it's impossible to kink that hose.

edit: I forgot to add, that I fixed the leak on the oil pan side. The oil was leaking out from where the bolt goes through the flange. I think it's because it sits weird on the oil pan there's a recess for the factory flange and these are much bigger. I tightened the bolt down some more which is hard to do because you can just barely get an open end wrench on there with the oversized tube on there now. I siliconed over it too for insurance.
 
i was thinking like making what you have made but have a fitting for a -12 an line on it would that be possible? like to just make the fitting away from the turbo due to the line being to big to fit on the turbo
 
i was thinking like making what you have made but have a fitting for a -12 an line on it would that be possible? like to just make the fitting away from the turbo due to the line being to big to fit on the turbo

To do that you'll have to modify your motor mount. That's why I went with a rubber hose because it can just form around it.

I went to Lowes today to try and find spring to put into my line and couldn't find much of a selection, I found one that would work but instead I looked around at different types of 90 degree bends. I found one that I liked after a lot of searching.
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It fit on the 3/4 heater hose real snug. It has a good bend on the inside to so it isn't very abrupt. I'll probably put it in sometime tomorrow.
 
Here is a picture of my drain. -10 AN pushlock. My friend made me fittings to bolt to the turbo and weld onto the pan. The pushlock fittings have 3 notches on them to keep the hose from sliding off. I had to cut one notch off of each to keep the hose from kinking. The silver spring looking thing is from Goodyear to keep the hose from kinking as well.

I'm using -4 AN supply, no balance shafts, OFH ported, and the one time I put a gauge on, I was seeing about 80 psi of pressure at about 6000 rpm. I'm only on 7 lbs of boost and haven't driven it but a couple hundred miles so I guess time will tell. So far no smoking issues.

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