hows it going? welcome to the site! first off you need to fill out your mods list in you profile so we can get a better idea of whats going on with your car. as far as the bogging and and reving issue i would do a boost leak test. start here IC Pipe Tester

also give your vac lines a check. make sure none are cracked ect....

Hey! Welcome to the forum.

+1 on testing for and finding any leaks. You may also want to test your ISC/IAC motor as it regulates your idle; it's located below your TB. How are your spark plugs doing? They could also be the cause of your bogging depending on age, condition, gap, etc.

ISC's when they get older much like us, tend to respond to changes slower than they should. They have to move for a living and get clogged up with carbon and such. Sometimes they make a check engine light and sometimes they don't.

The second situation could be fuel filter, air filter, catalytic converter or fuel pump. Do a fuel pressure test to remove the pump from the equation. The converter can be tested at an exhaust shop. The air filter checked by you and the fuel filter unless it's been recently changed, change it anyway.

Good Luck

Welcome

Welcome!

Is your BOV recirculated?

I'm having some what of a similar problem. I just recently switched to an open BOV when I put my new intake in. Ever since, my engine will idle down close to stalling then after a few seconds it will jump back up to about 1000rpms. It's probably something obvious, but i don't mind a little education.

iceman007 said:

I'm having some what of a similar problem. I just recently switched to an open BOV when I put my new intake in. Ever since, my engine will idle down close to stalling then after a few seconds it will jump back up to about 1000rpms. It's probably something obvious, but i don't mind a little education.

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Well recirculate it first and it will probably go away

iceman007 said:

I'm having some what of a similar problem. I just recently switched to an open BOV when I put my new intake in. Ever since, my engine will idle down close to stalling then after a few seconds it will jump back up to about 1000rpms. It's probably something obvious, but i don't mind a little education.

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When the BOV vents to atmosphere, you are throwing away MAF counted air mass and as far as the ECU is concerned, it's still there! This will mess up the AFR every time the BOV operates. Your BOV should be recirculated back to your intake.

Check the TPS along with the ISC.

Yeah i have the exact same problem. It is probably because i just went from recirc. to vented BOV. It's a guilty pleasure of mine but will this cause any severe issues in the future?

iRepDSM said:

Yeah i have the exact same problem. It is probably because i just went from recirc. to vented BOV. It's a guilty pleasure of mine but will this cause any severe issues in the future?

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I don't think it'll do damage, but it will provide ongoing inconvenience!

TrevorS said:

I don't think it'll do damage, but it will provide ongoing inconvenience!

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The potential damage is the possibility of getting fuel into your oil and spinning a bearing. There are a myriad number of threads on the topic of VTA vs recirculated. Remember, Function > Form guys.

Thanks for the helpful hints. I'll hook it back up to recirculate and see what happens. Now here's probably another stupid question, what would I need to do to be able to run open BOV and not have this issue?

Get MAFT or MAFT Gen 2 and a GM MAS and you can run your BOV vented. I have Gen 2 for sale. PM me if you want it.

The other alternative is to run a "dual port" BOV on your stock draw-thru MAS setup. It can be adjusted to both recirculate and vent.