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The RAVEN!: AWD/Auto/S400/Nitrous/Alum. rod/100% street car build *8/9s or bust!*

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The car looks really badass! The build is looking real good:thumb:

Thanks bro! Stay subscribed, much more to come!

You know what it is it's the old engine picks when you tucked your wiring harness that threw me off.

I thought you might have meant that one LOL. Overall I have posted 3 seperate motors. 2 in the "Dirty Birdie" car and 1 for this one /Falco build.
 
Wow,very impressive thus far.Money is nice,so is having the knowledge to piece the righjt parts together.

Money IS nice LOL.. I wish I had some so I could finish.. LOL. ROFL
 
Alright so he flooded the engine from too much nitrous, however did something break because of this that enabled him to no longer run. There doesnt seem like there was a nitrous backfire from the pictures of the intake manifold. I'm just trying to figure out why the car never made it down the track since there was a lot of hype and interest about the car.

I never said there was a nitrous back fire.. I specifically said that his launch control wasn't tuned and the nitrous system was flooding the car thus stalling it.. Basically the base map off the launch should have been leaned out to compensate for the additional fuel the fogger system was spraying into the manifold. Normally its ok, but with a shot this big its just too much.
 
A gt45/7r sized turbo on a auto should not need any spray to get into the 8's if tuned right. You can build boost off the line and keep it the whole way and the turbo flows plenty to reach your goal. The juice would just complicate things like with the previous owner.

If you have a good tuner, nitrous is a blessing. If not, its a curse. I fortunately have access to one of the original guys who worked on the AEM EMS plat form when it was in beta testing, and if anyone can get this thing tuned out, its him.

A majority of my runs will be done off spray. In the street class I am going to be in the fastest cars normally run low 10s. My build is beyond overkill. The nitrous however is used first to get the stall where I want it off the line and if I so wish to go for the record its nice to have an additional 150-200whp on tap.

For the most part people are not using spray all the way down the track, the auto guys are using somewhat small shots of nitrous to spool up the turbo to get the car to stall the converter properly.

^^^ That is definitely part of it. The really fast guys normally spray the whole track. None of course spraying this much nitrous but I think it'll be worth seeing how it goes. If it blows up, then I'll go back to the typical 100-150 shot everyone else runs.
 
If you have a good tuner, nitrous is a blessing. If not, its a curse. I fortunately have access to one of the original guys who worked on the AEM EMS plat form when it was in beta testing, and if anyone can get this thing tuned out, its him.

A majority of my runs will be done off spray. In the street class I am going to be in the fastest cars normally run low 10s. My build is beyond overkill. The nitrous however is used first to get the stall where I want it off the line and if I so wish to go for the record its nice to have an additional 150-200whp on tap.



^^^ That is definitely part of it. The really fast guys normally spray the whole track. None of course spraying this much nitrous but I think it'll be worth seeing how it goes. If it blows up, then I'll go back to the typical 100-150 shot everyone else runs.

I agree with the right tuner it is a great asset. I hope that you have that head tightened down with L19's or A1's to above 80lbs so that head don't lift on you. ;)
 
I agree with the right tuner it is a great asset. I hope that you have that head tightened down with L19's or A1's to above 80lbs so that head don't lift on you. ;)

I'm running L19s and my head is sleeved. On top of that the block is O-Ringed LOL. BUT L19s are over kill.. A good felpro metal gasket and some arps is all you need. Its what a majority of the big boys run and if it weren't for the fact I already had the L19s I'd be running the regular ARPs myself.

One thing I have learned is it is all about prep. I ran a OEM HG on my original build and it survived abuse from mid 11s on the to4b V trim to the 10s on the 35r... (I was using new OEM head bolts until I put the 35r on and then I switched to the ARPs using the 1 by 1 method)

Guys like Jake Montgomery, Kevin and a few other big wigs don't do O rings or L19s/A1s and run ridiculous boost.

I'll be home in about an hr more pics tonight.
 
Ok, so back to business..

The heart and soul of this build is the motor/transmisson.

Built locally by myself and Rob's machining the motor rocks the following parts:

Ross pistons (machined for race pins)
Alum. Groden Rods
Buschur lightened and knife edge "butterfly" crank
Moroso Race oilpan
Kiggly girdle
O-Ringed


And me being the awesome person I am, I went to the storage and pulled the head off just to get some better pics-

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O-Ringed-

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One of my favorite things about the motor (believe it or not) is the Moroso pan. This thing brings me back to my V8 push rod roots and just the look of this thing lets people know you mean business -

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Gorgeous. And yes its bolted on using studs instead of typical bolts.
 
Every body loves head right?

Built by Speed Injected-

Race ported
+1mm Ferrea SS valves
Ti retainers
Crower Springs
Steel sleeved
BC 280 Cams (currently FP3xs.. FS btw.)
AEM Tru Time Adj. Cam Gears
Greddy Kevla T-Belt
Buschur COP

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Port-

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+1mm Ferras-

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Sleeved-

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All together-

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More misc. parts:


Jays Racing Saturn Alt. relocation kit and brand new Saturn alternator-

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Greddy Kevlar T-Belt-

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AEM Cam gears-

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Simpson chute and custom removable mount-

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And of course if the Engine is the heart, the Transmission must be the soul-


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True it takes alot more then just frankenstiening a bunch of other peoples old setups together to go fast. You got to crawl before you can walk. I def have seen about 3 or 4 cars and a million diff turbo setups with no results. And everyone thinking you need the biggest baddest turbos to go fast. It takes alot more then just money. I been building a car for over a year from the ground up, with not a whole lot of money to throw at it, But i keep with it, and did all of the work from the paint to the cage. Its alot eayer to just buy other peoples stuff, but that dosent take skill , it just takes a fat wallet. And whats the fun in that.

I honestly like to believe you will finsh this car and get it down the track but from the past it seems like it wont get done or you will get it down the track break somthing then give up and sell it. Like most dsmers that have money, Fat wallets and no patients.
 
True it takes alot more then just frankenstiening a bunch of other peoples old setups together to go fast. You got to crawl before you can walk. I def have seen about 3 or 4 cars and a million diff turbo setups with no results. And everyone thinking you need the biggest baddest turbos to go fast. It takes alot more then just money. I been building a car for over a year from the ground up, with not a whole lot of money to throw at it, But i keep with it, and did all of the work from the paint to the cage. Its alot eayer to just buy other peoples stuff, but that dosent take skill , it just takes a fat wallet. And whats the fun in that.

I honestly like to believe you will finsh this car and get it down the track but from the past it seems like it wont get done or you will get it down the track break somthing then give up and sell it. Like most dsmers that have money, Fat wallets and no patients.

This car has been in the works for roughly 2 years. Not much of it is new minus the shell. This car in itself is built from the ground up. Its a shell with a cage. LOL since when did caged shells move down the track.

Still takes motor, tuning, driver, patience. Like I said, I been there before. This is nothing new to me. I been building these cars from scratch for the last 4+ years. Just upped my goals. I'm in no hurry to build but after about 2 years of research I settled on the route I wanna go. I still miss my 35r setup, but you gotta move on eventually and with that comes growing pains. It'd be nice sometimes to buy a fully complete car and just drive it down the track, but then you have to deal with other peoples problems.

But on a side note. Getting the motor out to Robs so they can do the hone and Kiggly girdle. Still waiting on T-Case and a few other ods and ends to come through. Cage still needs a couple pieces to pass stricter tech here in Cali and then after that I'll be installing the electronics brackets I built to hold the CDi and the AEM EMS under the dash that fold up out of the way and tilt back down for easy access.

Stripped the harness and move a lot of it around and trying to decide if I want the fuse box inside the interior like I did with the Black Dirty Birdie project or if I want it under the fender like I did with the White Falco shell..

Little after little its getting there. Still looking for a decent fuel setup but will most likely be going with a A1000 Eliminator setup. Brent hit me up about finding me a JMF fuel cell so the stock sumped one might go up FS soon. Stay tuned.
 
I dont mean any harm, i just see alot of people jumping from turbo setup to turbo setup, car to car, without sticking with one thing and getting results. Its dishearting when you see alot of dsmers do this. I dont know your situation so i cant judge you on that, I would just really like to see you finish one of these cars, because you def have alot of potential to go fast. Just keep with it man.
 
Curious as to why you chose the BC 280's over some of the FP grinds that would seem to be having better results in the field.
 
I'll be the first to admit that my car has a lot of the stuff that made Jake(topstreet) go fast but I don't think that makes me any less a builder I"m just not a fabricator like he is. While Jay isn't as good as Jake he is DEF a good fabricator and I hit him up personally about mounting my fuel cell and making brackets for it. I was going to get him to do other stuff like hood pins and stuff that I was just lazy to do but after getting my hands on stuff I felt more motivated and I'm proud to say that everything including my shitty paint job LOL was all done by me so far and I took pictures of everything a long the way. I bought my car as a shell with a cage(again I'm not a fabricator so I wouuld not even TRY to install a cage yet) and eveything esle I put in myself.

I think that as long as you install most of the parts yourself that makes you a builder. Everyone needs help along the way but i you just drop off your car and go build it here's money than that's different. I don't think anyone here has done that though so I think the flaming is a little harsh even if he has flaked on past builds. I know that I flaked on my first 90 tsi. That car had plenty in it to run 10's and because of lack of money at the time a lot less knowledge and experience than I have now and a couple small problems and a bad tune I bailed. I hope this car gets finished just like I hope jay finishes his car which I know he will. I think we should just let this stick to a build thread.

I do agree that FP cams are the truth. I am actually thinking about picking up a set of fp3x's for my build but I will save that for my thread.
 
I dont mean any harm, i just see alot of people jumping from turbo setup to turbo setup, car to car, without sticking with one thing and getting results. Its dishearting when you see alot of dsmers do this. I dont know your situation so i cant judge you on that, I would just really like to see you finish one of these cars, because you def have alot of potential to go fast. Just keep with it man.

Thanks for the support bro, I am definitely with you on this.

I think some got confused as to my motives when they saw me change shells and turbo setups. they both went hand in hand in bringing me closer to the same goals I had to begin with. Only difference was now it'd be easier. I never scraped or gave up on any. I stuck with my last complete build from a To4b V trim all the way to a 40r. It was a long road and I am just hoping my next build will last me as long. A lot of planning has gone on from what type of motor (2.0,-2.6l) and what kind of rods (AL or Iron) etc etc, hell the type of head gaskets to use have been thrown around. This is one for the books and hopefully I can finish it before the track closes. :rocks:

Again to clarify for everyone LOL: I HAVE NEVER SCRAPED A BUILD, FLAKED ON A BUILD, OR ANYTHING OF THE SORT. JUST LIKE WITH ANYTHING ELSE, PARTS CHANGE BUT THE GOAL AND CORE PIECES REMAINED THE EXACT SAME. I AM STILL GOING FOR A TOP MOUNTED BIG TURBO SETUP ON SPRAY TO RUN SINGLES WITH A 2.0 AL ROD BLOCK AND AN AUTO TRANNY, AEM EMS TUNED BY SEAN AT FFTEC. ALL IN THE STREET CLASS ON DOT HOOSIER DR/SLICKS, THAT HAS NEVER CHANGED AND WILL NEVER CHANGE...

So lets put that to rest kiddies. I've had 2 builds, the 10s 5spd and the single digit juiced auto build. That's it.
 
Curious as to why you chose the BC 280's over some of the FP grinds that would seem to be having better results in the field.

The BC280s have put down good numbers in comparison with many of the FPs. I currently have FP3Xs but feel they are far to aggressive for the automatic gearing on the street. 280s seem to be a common point for many when it comes to balancing low end power and something streetable. If being street driven wasn't an issue I'd definitely go for the CamZilla 5r/11 FP setup. I've always used FP cams and they have been good to me, but the BC280s are phenomenal for their price, the 288s and 272s, not so much..

But LOL @ me worrying about making a 100+lb/min turbo "streetable" on a 2.0 4 banger. LOL
 
I'm curious why this isn't being posted in a blog.

I pushed for the build section over on Talk since it seemed like builds were taking over the pix section, but coming over here it seemed like most builds were posted in this section so I thought maybe that was where they were all orphaned. It'd be cool to have a designated build forum that makes it a lot easier to update and communicate ideas than a blog. :pray:

BTW, You still movin back out this way? I know you said you were lookin' to scoot back to Sac/Elk Grove. It'd be nice to add another DSM to our meets.
 
What re-stalled torque converter are you running ? IPT, Hughes ? Are any of your build choices dedicated to spooling the turbo on the line or is it a full time Nos car ?
Super clean build BTW..
 
What re-stalled torque converter are you running ? IPT, Hughes ? Are any of your build choices dedicated to spooling the turbo on the line or is it a full time Nos car ?
Super clean build BTW..

Its a custom one from APT. With a turbo this size your only choice is juice on the stall..
 
Meant to do a little parts update a while back but forgot, but I'll go ahead and post it up. Hopefully later today I'll have some updates on the engine bay wire tuck and try to figure out whether I want to simply relocate the fuse box (most likely) or go through the hassle of cutting it up just to save a few lbs..
Some had questions or wanted to see closer pics of the radiator/IC setup so I russled some pics up.


A few early pics:

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Radiator removed:

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Griffin core-

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-16/18an SS Radiator lines-

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Close up on customized end tanks -

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ETS core custom out/in locations *custom fabed, not a ETS intercooler*:

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Together-

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Last edited:
Alrighty, so the show must go on...

This engine bay just isn't going to work for me. Its bad enough how dirty it is but these wires are every where.. the engine already had a bunch, but now due to gauges and sensors it has even more..

No worries, I'm the man for the job.

The big debate right now is what route to go with the harness... Part of me wants to rip it out and strip it bare (I mean I have plenty of time to do so... But then the other part of me thinks it'd be a waste of time. When I can achieve a wire tuck, without relocating the fuse box to the interior like I did with my Dirty Birdie build..

Years of building these cars have showed me there are more than 1 way to do things, and sometimes previous owner "mods" help. On this car when it was equipped with a 42r, it sat in the corner where the PS reservoir use to be. A large hole was cut to allow the piping to run through that opening. My new setup wont be like this so his hole will be patched and or welded. But it was just big enough to fit the fuse box through.. what this accomplishes is the ability to tuck the harness completely out side of the engine bay, WITHOUT splicing it.

Hmmm, at this point, the only reason to do a complete harness relocation is if I was bored... LOL. Here are some pics to illustrate. Don't mind the dirty engine bay, after I figure out what route I am going with the harness I'll be shaving all the holes and once I finish doing that then I'll be cleaning and respraying it black.


Starting point-

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I need more room to work so everything in the way such as the radiator and hood need to GTFO!-

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Me, a pair a scissors, and a 10mm socket/ratchet. DO WORK SON!-

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Fenders and lights gotta go too-

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A lot better, still dirty tho-

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Fuse box pulled back to the drivers side where it comes from-

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Dirty birdie part 2?-

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No more harness in the engine bay FTW-

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Engine harness dropped under the Brake lines. Lines, valves, screws and all will be painted black, they'll be pretty much invisible once its said and done.

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And that took all of about maybe 30minutes -1hr... I've done these so many times its like second nature by now. This car just adds more complication due to the extra wires and the vacuum lines being stainless and of course the nitrous lines. In the end however it'll look that much more crisp.

I've been dying to use mu ProClassic black braided lines for a while and I've decided to go back and swap out all the SS vac. lines with the black PCs. This should help me re route them in a less visible manner, at the same time where visible they will be clean, go with the flow of the braided lines and of course look uber blingin'.

More to come.
 
I pushed for the build section over on Talk since it seemed like builds were taking over the pix section, but coming over here it seemed like most builds were posted in this section so I thought maybe that was where they were all orphaned. It'd be cool to have a designated build forum that makes it a lot easier to update and communicate ideas than a blog. :pray:

BTW, You still movin back out this way? I know you said you were lookin' to scoot back to Sac/Elk Grove. It'd be nice to add another DSM to our meets.
Build threads like this are much easier to follow along with when they're in Blog form. Otherwise you have to read through pages of replies that most likely aren't worth reading. It may be easier for you to communicate with people in a thread, but it's much easier for most people to follow a Blog than a thread. That's why blogs are so friggin popular these days - they're extremely easy to read. Very few want to sift through thread replies to see your updates. Most builds are now being posted in the Blogs section here on our site. Our moderators have been pushing for all threads like this to be ended and continued in a Blog. I'll ask you to do the same.

And yes, we're still planning on moving out there... we're just not sure on when. Maybe a year, maybe two.
 
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