looks fine except for the stock injectors.

with as much air as a 16g pushes out, you should either stick to 14psi or upgrade to bigger injectors.
evo 560's are fine and easy to tune with.

Might as well get yourself some 650cc injectors, thats as far as your going to be able to go with an SAFC. But your a 95 so you probably have a EPROM ECU so you could get ECMlink.(thats a Safc thats also a logger and is real easy to tune)

Your going to need a logger and a boost gauge.

Like the others have said larger injectors would make it safer. And while you do your fuel pump, make sure you do the rewire.

2G DSM FWD Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions

Thanks guys, so get rid of the safc and get ECMLink V3? and 550s? 2birds with one stone!

-Thanks for the rewire instructions killa much help on that.( FWD and AWD same rewire)?

I was reading on the vfaq on porting so im ###### gonna go to the junk yard and try to get my hands on a manifold and o2 housing, just to be safe , plus my boss is kick ass and im sure he wont mind if i bring them in the shop.

OH btw any sound diff in a crushed 1g bov..

Definitely get ECMLink, but if you are buying new injectors with that particular tuning software you might as well get 850's as it handles larger injectors with no problem at all and it will future proof your car, you can even run 1200s or 1600s without any changes and the fuel will be easy to tune. Yes the AWD and FWD rewires are the same.

If you are getting DSMLink (ECM V3) then go with nothing less than 750's. The price is the same.

StreetTunedTSi said:

OH btw any sound diff in a crushed 1g bov..

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Don't ruin a perfectly good bov. Crushing increases spring pressure which may allow your bov to hold more boost but it also reduces its reaction time. Alternatively a way to significantly upgrade your 1g bov would be to use the Dodge Garage Mod (find it with the search button) or the Dejon Tool stop leak kit. Either will give you a much more capable bov with the option of fast release.


Also, take some time to research tuning options before just jumping in and buying one. Ecmlink is great but there are other options that are less expensive. Given that you have a 95 Eprom ecu the cost to use it will be about $200 less than for most other people but that still leaves you paying about $500 IIRC. If that is fine then go ahead, it is probably the most robust and easy to use system out there. Alternatively you could get a Keydiver chip. This would compensate for larger injectors and give you a strong base tune for much less money. About $300 IIRC and you would then keep the SAFC for small adjustments to make a system nearly as potent as Ecmlink, if you setup ever changes just send the chip and $20 back out and get the tune changed.

You could also swap your ecu out entirely for an evo8 ecu. The swap is easy and someone that has done it before could probably do it in 15 minutes. This would allow you to use ecuflash which is just as capable as ecmlink although it has a much higher learning curve. Cost for this is about $100 for the ecu, and $125 for the logging software and cable and is the cheapest of the robust tuning options available for our cars.

Finally the SAFC may be perfectly fine for your goals, with the SAFC and some 550cc injectors you can run 17psi perfectly fine, if you move up to 650cc injectors you should be able to do quite a bit more than that. Do you have a horsepower goal or a time goal? I know that I was only guessing what 17psi felt like when I was in your position.

First off thanks for all the good details guys and yes my goal is 310whp, just for the fact I'm terrified of getting crank walk and I would like to have it done by august.

Btw which name brand do u guys reccomend for 750 cc injectors since they are same price as 550s.

Whatever you can find in the classifieds.

Generally PTE and FIC are the common ones that people like but IMO there are enough people who are selling off partial builds in the classifieds now that it is worthwhile to get some used ones for a lot less than new. Injectors just aren't something that I worry about getting new. As long as they don't show physical damage they are probably fine.

I personally would only buy used injectors if you plan on having them professionally cleaned and new seals added. So factor that into the cost of the injectors... you may find new is cheaper.

I've seen 880s go for $180 a few times with only a few hundred miles on them (claimed). Personally if I'm willing to take evo injectors and put them in as is then I don't see why bigger injectors should be any more scary. My black tops had 100k on them when I took them out and most injectors will outlive an engine. It is important to be careful with fuel components but I feel that nearly new with no physical damage is just fine. Plus, you can always clean and rebuild injectors at home. You can't flow test them without equipment but the cleaning is easy.

Go with 650's and a Walbro 255 (rewired) for a little extra insurance. Both the 190 and the 255 cost about the same, and you don't want to risk running out of pump. Plus it's there if you want to go with bigger injectors later on.

Metal HG and studs? Better safe and sorry especially since you will soon want more than your 16g most likely down the road.

with the 255fp wouldn't I need an pfr, and regarding the injectors I'd rather buy new 750s and not worry about their past. And I might do the head gasket and studs if I feel 17-20 pounds is not enough.

a 35r would be nice down the road but I am more of an autocross guy then drag racing, I'm going with the big 16 for the fact it flows good and spools up nicely for my rpm range.

I would personally not go with a 255, headstuds, or a new head gasket.

First the pump, a 255 is great but it is also overkill and expensive by the time you add an AFPR. Instead go with a 190lph pump or an evo9 fuel pump. An evo8 fuel pump is an option but it has a pressure relief valve that causes it to lose all flow when you start boosting above 20psi and it doesn't flow like an evo9 pump. An evo9 pump flows a bit better than a 190lph pump and can be had for usually a bit less money. They are a direct swap with a 2g pump so there aren't any issues about compatibility. It is good that this was mentioned, I had overlooked adding a fuel pump to your list which is necessary to run injectors much larger than stock. A 190lph should flow enough fuel to support your 16g with almost any setup.

A head gasket and head studs are unnecessary at this point and are easy to add later. Well, headstuds are. If you start boosting above 20psi then I would suggest changing your headstuds. If your car is a daily driver and you don't have another option then changing your head gasket to run over about 23-25 psi would be a good idea otherwise I would just wait until your stock gasket gives out (it probably wont as long as you don't let your car knock like crazy and have head studs or if you don't go above 23psi).


I'm not at my home computer or I would post a link to a thread which lists fuel pump and injector limits in terms of airflow, I'll try to post it when I get home tonight.

So a 190lph would do just fine with the FIC 650cc for the goal im trying to reach? i just don't want to invest in a 255 + fpr if the 190lph would do the job. Also regarding my stock fuel rail, will it hold or do you guys think that upgrading to Aeromotive would be a good investment, and yes it is my DD so i plan on not beating the piss out of it, unlike many dip$hits around me..

Yeah, a 190lph should be just fine for what you need. Personally I would go to evolutionm and search the classifieds for an evo9 pump (since that is what I did) but if you want new then go with the 190lph, it doesn't flow quite as much but it should be fine with 650s.

You really do not need to upgrade your fuel rail. If you really want to upgrade fuel components then your fuel lines and fuel filter are the things to upgrade before that. The fuel rail itself is probably the least restrictive fuel part on our cars.

You are right in that if you go with a 255 fuel you will need an AFPR. However, I was running out of fuel with a rewired 190 on the top end, using FIC 650's and running about 20# of boost. Granted I'm running an 18G so it flows a bit more, but swapping to the 255 and AFPR made a big difference! YMMV.

750-800cc injectors. and to be cheaoer just pick up a used 2.5 dsmlink for really cheap. besides the new stuff in v3 you wont need.

so

750-800cc injectors .PTE,FIC.ETC

dsmlink v2.5

wallbro 190 pump if you wanna use the stock fpr .but i would go with a 255 and a afpr

rewire kit

MBC

16g

act 2100 ,do not use a act tob

or centerforce ,clutch masters,etc

boost gauge

aem ugo wideband gauge

thats really all you need but more is better.

ohh and ive pushed the stock head gasket to 26psi . but i wouldnt go past 22psi

with just what i listed you could run 22psi and have about 345whp on a good tune

Act tob?
I planned on takng A drive up to STM and having them dyno tune it. I figure ## car is only as good as your tune and they seem to know their stuff.

Act sends a throw out bearing with there clutch kits, i dunno why you shouldnt run one i daily drive mine an have had no problems with it.

A good number of folks on this forum have recommended staying with the OEM Mitsubishi TOB.

StreetTunedTSi said:

First off thanks for all the good details guys and yes my goal is 310whp, just for the fact I'm terrified of getting crank walk and I would like to have it done by august.

Btw which name brand do u guys reccomend for 750 cc injectors since they are same price as 550s.

Click to expand...

Dont worry about the crankwalk, you wont get it. Its overrated.