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People with 2G full bushing kits..

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truwarrior

20+ Year Contributor
1,422
6
Dec 19, 2002
Is it worth doing all the bushings? Shop wants 8 hours, which is ok, but are any just not worth it?> Thanks
 
Um...easier said then done. With a job as much of a pain in the ass as this,id take it to someone I trusted. Chances are with cars as old as ours, most of the bushings will need to be torched out or off. 8 hours actually seems like a good deal, what is their shop rate? Also what kind of shop is this?

Also I would say it was worth it, because then you will know it is done. You wont ever have to mess with bushings again. I think you will find your car feels more solid.
 
I'm in the middle of doing this and its a major PITA. I purchased the harbor freight press, but even with its very hard to get the bushing out of the knuckles. Some bolts will be rusted inside the bushing sleeve and will have to be cut & replaced. I wasn't able to get the passenger side rear axle removed from the knuckle, so I had to burn the two bottom bushings off. How much does this shop charge per hour?
 
I'm currently doing all the bushings on my 2g AWD. It's certainly not a fun process, but it's something you can do with enough patience and just a few tools. All you need is a propane torch, hacksaw, 3 lb mini sledge and any of the sockets and wrenches needed to disassemble the suspension. I think they've all been 14mm or 17mm so far. Oh yeah, and the rear toe control arm has a really large bolt head at the chassis mounting point. I think I used a 13/16" socket that fit nice and snugly over it despite that it's a metric bolt. I haven't found any yet that I can't do. I have broken a couple bolts, but big deal, they're only a buck or two to replace and while I've got the suspension apart I'm sanding down all the control arms and repainting them with some nice strong rust resistant paint. It's looking a lot better and I can't wait to take it for a ride. The car should feel brand new. Each bushing takes about a half an hour to burn out, cut out and replace. I think total working time so far for me is probably in the 10 hour cumulative time for me, but thats with painting everything too and i've been doing it bit by bit, not all at once. I'm sure you could do this all in a weekend if you were willing to just sit down and do it.
 
I did the rears on my 2g gsx adn one side took about 5 hours from the time I started to finished. The other corner took about the same.
Just get a touch and a saw and you'll be ok. I used a sawzal and it works very nice. I didn't use a press either. Just a regular vice on a bench is working fine. It's probably a little harder, but worth it in the end.
Even w/ a press no way it can be done in 8 hours
Do it yourself, you will learn more about ## car
 
Anyone get the full rear set installed? Curious to what the difference is like...? I'm still debating about doing it. Can the knuckle ones be easly done without removing the knuckle from the car?

I just ordered new toe arms. I might have been able to press the old bushings out etc, but it's pretty well rusted. In the meantime before the toe arm come in, I'm debating about doing the other rear bushings. So far I just have the upper arm bushings installed..

I'm thinking I might just do the support arms and the bushing in the new toe arms. Thoughts?
 
I have the full Energy suspension kit, first time I installed it I had to use the torch method (& it does take a LONG time), then I converted to awd & needed to do all the rear bushings all over again. This time I bought a 20 tonn press (probably the same as Harbor Freight would carry) as I had other uses as well. The press was defently worth it, it made the job much easier & much quicker.
 
Can the knuckle ones be touched out while the knuckle is on the car? It looks like all control arms need to be removed to be pressed out. I think I might do just the arms, then burn out the knuckle bushings whenever I have a spare time.

Also are any other bolts likely need to be busted while removing the arms and bushings? So far I had to order new cam bolts for the toe adjustments. I also have new endlinks on order.
 
I did this at home with basic hand tools also. Heres my steps.

1)Drill holes all around the rubber

2)Hammer out the inner sleeve. It should just tear apart with the holes in the rubber. I just propped my arms up in a brick and smacked it with a 1lb brass hammer.

3) Use a Sawzll or hacksaw to cut a grove in the outer ring. Do this on the inside inline with the arm so If you accidentally cut into it a bit the strength isn't affected. I didnt try cutting all the way through, just 70-90%

4)Use a small chisel and wedge it in at the cut to break it appart all the way down

5)Hammer that part the rest of the way out.

6)For getting the new bushing in I got a long threaded rod with a big stack of fender washers tappering down to regular sized washers. I used a bunch so I didnt have to worry about them bending under the force. I put the rod through the bushing and the arm and tightened everything down till It went all the way in. Make sure you lube the crap out of the bushing though, and be carefull when youre fire trying to get the lip of the bushing into the housing so you dont tear it.

7) Use big hammer to smack it in the rest of the way.

8) ???

9) Profit!
 
At least he/she revived his/her own thread.

When I get into the suspension of my 2g like that, I plan on buying all the bolts and moving pieces too and just replace the whole setup. Why you ask? Well the previous owners didn't take car of the car and it sat in PA rusting out. When I did my exhaust cut out last week I noticed that the whole suspension system as going to be a huge PITA to work on, so I guess Ill just have to start saving. Hell my sway bars are almost completely rust, thank God its only easy parts and not my body that's rusting. Personally I'm one of those guys who would rather wrench it myself and curse up a storm then pay a shop to do my work (and take weeks to get around to it if its a performance shop).
 
Can the knuckle ones be touched out while the knuckle is on the car? It looks like all control arms need to be removed to be pressed out. I think I might do just the arms, then burn out the knuckle bushings whenever I have a spare time.

Also are any other bolts likely need to be busted while removing the arms and bushings? So far I had to order new cam bolts for the toe adjustments. I also have new endlinks on order.

Just remove the knuckles, if your removing all the other arms, you have them most of the way off anyways & it will make things much easier.

The cam bolts for the toe adjustment are the most common to have issues with. I didn't have a problem with any of mine, but its a summer only vehicle.
 
I also installed the complete ES bushing kit on my 2G, and this is one of those jobs where having the right tools will make a world of difference. I can't even imagine how long it might take or how frustrated I might have gotten if using only basic hand tools as stated above. I don't doubt it's possible, I just wouldn't want to do it.

A 12-ton press (which I bought) can be had from Harbor Freight for around $150ish which is really nothing compared to what it would cost if paying a shop for 8+ hours of labor. And, if you don't think you'll ever use it again, sell it on craigslist when you're done.

If you're worried about having problems removing bolts from an old suspension, an impact wrench should make short work of it. I never broke any bolts, but then the car was a 99 and lived it's life in sunny CA. Still...

Every suspension part that had a replacement bushing came off the car. It had to for the press... again, I can't imagine leaving anything on the car while trying to remove/replace a bushing using only hand tools (as mentioned above).

With the parts on the press, I ended up using sockets, matching the diameter of each bushings metal sleeve and pressing them through, which in turn pressed each bushing out. It really was that simple. Pop! Those suckers came right out every time.

Pressing the new bushings in wasn't quite as much fun, but not all that difficult. One thing I learned early on is that you'll want to make sure the edges of the opening you're trying to press the new polyurethane bushings into are not sharp. I ended up shearing one of the flared outer edges of a bushing right off and had to order a replacement. It was then that I noticed that some of the openings are rounded or beveled on one side and sometimes sharp on the other.

Before I go too far off topic, I did notice that the suspension felt a bit tighter when turning and the ride firmed up a bit, but the rest of my suspension was also far from stock at that time.
 
I've done this job twice, once on my gst with ES Bushing kit and once on my GSX with the Prothane kit.
GST was with removing all components and using a shop press... not necessary, first time, and we all know how long shit takes to do when it's your first time.

GSX was done using an assortment of sockets and a Ball Joint Press from Harbor Freight and my trusty 1/2" impact gun.
Upfront, there are 4 upper control arm bushings and 2 lower inner most lateral arm bushings.

Outback, there are 4 upper control arms bushings.
Up top, on the knuckle there are 2 upper bushings.
On the bottom of the knuckle there are 3 pair of bushings.
2 lower control arm bushings.
2 lower toe control arm bushings.
2 trailing arm bushings.
On the trailing arm, there are 2 large bushings.

The Prothane Kit comes with extra bushings.
Up front, the bushing that the wish bone connects to should not be replaced.

On a GSX, on the rear suspenion, the inner most bushings on the lower control arm and the toe control arm can not be replaced without cutting the screw that goes thru them.
This screw is no longer available thru Mitsu, and I'm not gonna replace a 6" long grade 10 metric suspenion bolt with a something you find at your local hardware store.
There was a guy on here that did replace these inner most bushings and he said it was worth it.
He auto X's and knows his shit when it comes to suspension.... What was his screen name, JTMCinder or some shit.
The screw can not be removed without lowering the sub-frame.
Once the nut is removed, you can slide the screw out, but it will hit the gas tank...... FAIL.
I'm into Road Racing and I plan on replacing these someday!

I've done the bushings on the GSX using the balljoint press.
There is one bushing on the knuckle that needs to be drilled out because you can not get your BJ Press in there.
It's the bushing on the knuckle for the trailing arm.

My friend and I are gonna do a full ES Bushing kit on his 95 Talon very soon, if he'll just ge off his ass and get his car over to my house, we could get it done........

The ES Bushings are a little more of a PITA because some of them are 1 piece which requires pressing them in, and if you'vve ever tried dealing slimy greasing bushings and a press, you'll know exactly what I mean.

The Prothane kit are all 2 piece.
I did the entire rear of my car in a little over 3 hours, and that's 12 bushings folks.

Anyway, read it all if you want, too, nobody does anyway, and I don't really know why I waste my time typing this shit out, but if you live close enough, I can do them for you for a 12pk of Samuel Adams, or a 24pk of Budlight and lunch on any Saturday you want...
 
Great...looks like I'll be waiting 2 weeks before the new toe arms come in...

What does the the first arm towards the outside and front part of the car? Does it mainly assist when the car it braking? I'd imagine that the middle arm is the main support and the toe arm is mainly for just toe alignment.
 
My advice, get the prothane full bushings kit....Much easier to install....I have done this, I did it at my work using a torch and a press.....

Being that I use a press everyday at work, It took me all of about an hour to get all the rear bushings/sleeves out....:D

The front, took me about 10 minutes to press out the 3 bushings needed on each side.....

-Kevin-
 
The trailing arm has a large bushing that connects to the chassis, and the other end connects to the angled bushing on the bottom of the knuckle.
Without this arm, the control arm and toe arm would fold.
The trailing arm and lower control arm make up the A-Arm so to speak.
 
Well I give up. I tried replacing the middle control arm bushing and I can't get the bolt out. It's frozen in the bushing and I don't feel like cutting another arm off.
 
Well I give up. I tried replacing the middle control arm bushing and I can't get the bolt out. It's frozen in the bushing and I don't feel like cutting another arm off.

What to you mean, middle control arm bushing?
PB Blaster is your friends, and so is a BFH!

Don't give up.
If you are indeed a truwarrior, you will overcome this obstacle.... Sorry man, kinda had to!
 
Well I give up. I tried replacing the middle control arm bushing and I can't get the bolt out. It's frozen in the bushing and I don't feel like cutting another arm off.

HAd this same issue on my friends 95 talon tsi, we ended up cutting the strut mount loose from the lower control arm with a sawzall, then with eventually ended up buying a new lower control arm because no matter what we tried nothing would budge it.
 
I honestly think the best approach for this rear bushing project is to buy all used parts/new i.e. all arms, bolts, buts, endlinks, install the bushings in the arms, then tear out the old crap and put in the arms with the new bushing. It's so frustrating getting past one part then running into another. It's at a point were I don't think the time and money spent is worth it for just a street car.
 
Subscribed. I appreciate the opinions on this. I'll be replacing at least one bushing, a cv axle, and a ball joint shortly in the future and this is some wonderful information. Tips and tricks for this are needed.

d
 
Just bought the full prothane kit for my track car. can't wait to get the parts in the mail and start tackling this project! gotta get it done before i put my new coilovers on... i am gonna sand blast all my parts i remove and then either powdercoat or paint them before i put them back on. not sure which one yet.. but painting is a ton cheaper! we will see... i am excited for all the elbow grease i will have to put into it. will all be worth it! :D
 
Just bought the full prothane kit for my track car. can't wait to get the parts in the mail and start tackling this project! gotta get it done before i put my new coilovers on... i am gonna sand blast all my parts i remove and then either powdercoat or paint them before i put them back on. not sure which one yet.. but painting is a ton cheaper! we will see... i am excited for all the elbow grease i will have to put into it. will all be worth it! :D

Paint all the suspension stuff with Rustoleum gloss black paint, forget the powdercoat. Paint is cheap and I used this paint on a 74 Porsche 914 when we tore it down and rebuilt it. Suspension still looks perfect after a couple years. This paint takes like 10-12 hours to dry up all the way, though, so don't touch it til then cause the stuff is very sticky. Once its dry it looks great though
 
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