ok so, i got new cylinder head, new cylinder head gasket, new cylinder head bolts
everything is torqued and tight. but coolant is still finding its way into my engine....to the point of it looks like i am seafoaming my car. white smoke everywhere. and the car will die unless you give it gas.

need new ideas on how to fix this.

*im temped just to pull the head and seal it with liquid gasket.*

compression test your not sealing

Judaspriest22 said:

ok so, i got new cylinder head, new cylinder head gasket, new cylinder head bolts
everything is torqued and tight. but coolant is still finding its way into my engine....to the point of it looks like i am seafoaming my car. white smoke everywhere. and the car will die unless you give it gas.

need new ideas on how to fix this.

Click to expand...

Was your head milled by chance?

compession test came accroos as 152, 150, 151 ,153. should be between 136-141

its the 1.8L 4g37, forgot to say what motor it was.

yes the head was machined b4 i installed it...thats what's pissing me off

i just remembered

my old head says m37
my new one says m36

could this be a problem??

but they are EXACTLY the same from what i could see other then cleanliness

really need this car driveable!!

Judaspriest22 said:

compession test came accroos as 152, 150, 151 ,153. should be between 136-141

its the 1.8L 4g37, forgot to say what motor it was.

yes the head was machined b4 i installed it...thats what's pissing me off

i just remembered

my old head says m37
my new one says m36

could this be a problem??

but they are EXACTLY the same from what i could see other then cleanliness

Click to expand...

I asked if the head was milled because once in a while a mill job goes wrong where a head gets ruined but being that you holding good compression i'm kind of stumped myself.

Sounds like you need to put a strait edge on the head, if its good then you need to have it magnafluxed (checked for cracks).

Edit: Did you change the head bolts? They are extremely prone to stretching. I had a similar problem on a 1.6.

the head is freshly machined, it doesnt have more then 20 miles on it! and yes i did the ruler\straigth edge check!

is there a another way for coolant to leak into the cylinders??

I don't know about the machine shops you have, but the ones buy me have to ship the head out to check for cracks. Just because it is machined does NOT mean its good especially if it is not the head you gave them.

my good friend you mis understand!

i bought a new head off of Thedsmgraveyard.com for 147$ including shipping

when i got it i sent it to a machine shop that a friend of mine works at
he would not lie to me

the head was machined and checked for cracks.
the head is very clean and looks like a new Rolex

i dont understand whats going on with my poor 4g37 shes an angle 195k miles

no backfiring through the intake
no oil spitting out the intake
no leaky vacuum lines
no missing
no sputtering
no ching clanks smacks rattles pops or thumps
no squealing belts

she just doesn't keep coolant in her
i think this car could make it to 300k easy if i figure out the coolant problem

is your turbo good there is nuthin in your intercooler is there

my car is not turboed!

hence the fact that it is a 1.8L 4g37 Single cam motor

nevermind n/t

Wtf............

Ahh sorry, If it was new why did you have it milled? If you have machine shop budy have you checked the block with a strait edge? Unlikely but it can warp.

Also did you reuse the head bolts or replace them?

there has to be a crack in the water journals somewhere
there just has to be

I replaced the head bolts and gasket

the head wasnt NEW NEW but it was close too it

what i learned freshmen year of high school was that when you buy something like a cylinder head, no matter where you got it from if its not BRAND NEW. then you should have it checked and machined if needed

Im thinking headgasket. Is blown out/faulty on one of the coolant passages. If you decide to pull the head post up pics of the gasket.

And I took what you said as new as new to you, but then you sated it was new (as in brand new) so I had to clear it up. Get another head I can get them for less than $30 there are a ton of them in the junkyards here. I would never spend that much on a used 1.8 head unless it came with an awsome waranty. And I can return the head to the salvage yard with in 30 days and get my money back if its bad. Heck I can buy whole 1.8 engines for what you paid.

Sorry about asking about the bolts so much I missed that part.

Leak-down test.

This should have been posted in either the Newbie or the 1gnt section.

i dont know why it was posted in this section because i remember very clearly posting in the Newbie forum.

and i looked at the heads in junk yard.. they were all junk. they were darker then a TI concert.

the only place i could find decent heads was at the DSM graveyard.

I would have just got a new engine but i don't have a lift or a garage, or 500$ for my buddy to put it in for me.

and plus ive checked plenty of places for 1.8L engines and cant find any, if i do they are in crap condition
garages, Warehouses, scrapyards, websites, craigslist, Ebay.
ive checked them all.

i did not say my head was brand new.

go back and read it again

and besides, the engine its self is in way too good of condition to just pull and replace. as i stated in my earlier posting on this thread

Locke has already put you in the right direction. I agree that you should do a leak down test. This will tell you where the problem is.

(Requisite leak down test aside) I'm thinking you may be looking in the wrong place. Why did you replace the head? Was there drastic overheating before? I'm wondering if you have a crack in your cylinder walls. These can be tough to find sometimes, but obviously would create problems. Pull your plugs and see if you can isolate the cylinder by checking plugs.

Also, might you have put the headgasket on backwards?

MB