Please.......Just buy a damned manual boost controller instead of making your own. Thats the problem. As for the noise, i would boost leak test the system, i bet you have one, or two.

James

Lots of people build their own boost controllers successfully. But I however bought mine off ebay for $8 (less than it costs to make one) and a friend of mine bought one from a ebay store for like $10, neither of us have had any problems.

The boost controller works after a new spring. So Vette, thanks but thats not the problem. The noise isn't like boost, its more of a tapping sound. I can't explain it without making a video remember it only does this at higher boost.

Habit, the BOV is a stock 1g. So I'm sure its fine. The tapping sound sounds like a woodpecker is spooling the turbo up at high boost....Thats as specific as I can get. The valves sound quiet when I'm listening to them at Idle then the car is hot nothing.

I checked turbo shaft play, and thats good. Heres the thing last night, I hit fuel cut one time in 2nd gear(scared the shit outta me) After that the sound was gone for a while. thats why I'm asking about the injectors

I would think if the injector was that bad, you would hear it at idle as well. They tend to be reliable injectors and i've never had a problem with any denso injector in my experience.(390,450,560). It is definitely possible that there is an issue from poor prior maintenance or fuel but if its good at idle/cruise,etc., it's probably good all the way through.
Is your boost controller secure, or is it hitting things when under load?
How's the lifters?
Exhaust leaks?

toofast82 said:

I would think if the injector was that bad, you would hear it at idle as well. They tend to be reliable injectors and i've never had a problem with any denso injector in my experience.(390,450,560). It is definitely possible that there is an issue from poor prior maintenance or fuel but if its good at idle/cruise,etc., it's probably good all the way through.
Is your boost controller secure, or is it hitting things when under load?
How's the lifters?
Exhaust leaks?

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Right on. I'm going to do thorough checks tomorrow, and see what I find. The boost controller isn't tied down. Its down behind the air filter stuffed away. Unless at high boost they vibrate like a machine gun I'd say its not that. The engine is quiet as a mouse at Idle. It shouldn't be exhaust leaks as I just installed a new manifold gasket, turbo basket, and the first gasket on the down pipe. I'm going to do some checking, and see what I find.

Heres what the wheel looked like.

Alright update. I did a bunch of visual checks,a nd didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I opened the oil fill, and listened to the engine idle, I also took the cam cover off, watched the cams After hearing a strange sound in the oil fill, and as I watched thecams move around a bit I pulled the cam cover. I figured whats the worst I could clean the lifters if I don't. So I pulled the cover, and checked all the bolts for tightness.

....This shocks me a little, but I found the #1 cylinder, exhaust cam cap loose. So I torques it back down, and cleaned the lifters, put it all back. Took it out for a drive. Its crazy to think that it would come loose like that. It made the cam belt move around just a little when that valve opened, and closed. I'm glad its resolved!

Well spotted, you sound like your right where i am with my car, so could you keep me or us upto date with your progress thanks Eric.

Glad to see you got it sorted out before any major issues occured

No, doubt guys Thanks for the help also. Debbie, I sure will do thanks. The next thing I may tackle in a few days is a fuel pump rewire. Is this even worth it? I already got wires running to the hatch its like a 2 gauge cable that I can patch right into.

snakeyes711 said:

The next thing I may tackle in a few days is a fuel pump rewire. Is this even worth it? I already got wires running to the hatch its like a 2 gauge cable that I can patch right into.

Click to expand...

It will give your pump higher and more consistent output and voltage
Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
RRE Instructions

habitatguy187 said:

I will definitely be going with a ported small 16g.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/318980-difference-between-small-16g-big-16g.html

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This is misinformation that has been spread around far and wide. The compressor map shown for the small 16g is incorrect. The Big 16g flows more, and is more efficient. The Evo III 16g flows more than either of them and is even more efficient.

^^^That there 'is misinformation that has been spread around far and wide.'

The small 16g compressor map is the correct map. The numeric values are different for the airflow. Those values are converted in that refered thread accordingly.

1) The small 16g is over 70% efficient up to 36lb/min. The big 16g is under 70% efficiency at 36lb/min no matter the boost, 1psi or 100psi. And, infact, the big 16g is under 70% efficiency after 31lb/min no matter the boost.

2) At .29kg/sec (38 lb/min) the small 16g is at 65% efficiency. The big 16g, at its farthest extent of the 65% efficiency curve, flows less than .26m^3/sec. That's 551cfm. Using the ambient conditions of the small 16g map, that comes to 38lb/min.

3) The small 16g reaches choke just after 38lb/min. And applying the trend of the small 16g 60% curve beyond the max rpm of the wheel, shows as much flow as 40lb/min. The big 16g 60% efficiency curve trend is already turning to the left at that efficiency and flow.


. . . As well, the small 16g is an entirely different animal than the 14b. It flows 4lb/min more on the compressor and has a larger turbine housing to allow the compressor to see such flow. The 14b turbine housing is restrictive enough to keep the 14b from seeing even it's 34lb/min potential for most builds. You'd be hard pressed to extract 32lb/min out of the turbo. The 16g flow 6lb/min over that and has the same turbine as the evo3 16g. Being capable of seeing 6lb/min more flow potential is an easy 60-70whp; a HUGE difference at 300whp, like a 25% difference.

There's nothing wrong with one if you get a deal on it; but I would never buy new ,or buy used at full market, a regular big 16g (evo1-2 turbo). The small 16g is more modern and the evo3 16g is more moddern and larger. The evo3 16g lags more than the small 16g, but flows 42lb/min based on the map. Any goal one would have with a 16g turbo would fall in the small 16g catagory or the evo3 16g catagory.

Thanks now I'm all cunfused about the turbos,? I'm thinking its just who likes what to each his own when picking 16g turbos thats what I'm getting. BTW when I swapped manifolds I inspected inside the turbo, and found a pretty huge crack running down inside the waste gate. As well as one or two more small cracks in that area. Do I need to replace the turbine housing, And if I do is it possible to get a 7cm housing, and build that or something?

After playing with the boost I got it to set at a good 15psi in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear. So I'm happy for now. I found the wire on the starter frayed loose this evening too, and had to take that off, and replace it. Joy! What'll I find next? (knock on wood)

Oh, also I'm getting mixed signals about a fuel pump rewire now like it may not help anything at all? Should I just get the 190, and run it on stock wiring? Can I run the 190 by itself like that? should I rewire for that pump?

I found a good set of 550cc injectors too for a hundred dollars, can I run them just swapping them?

Hey again, I would do the fuel pump re-wire as it will improve the fuel flow and once its done it will be there for any fuel pump you put in and it don't cost much, and It comes highly recommended by so many DSMers so what's the harm, and no you cant put bigger injectors in until you get a tuning program i.e. dsmlink.

debbie said:

Hey again, I would do the fuel pump re-wire as it will improve the fuel flow and once its done it will be there for any fuel pump you put in and it don’t cost much, and It comes highly recommended by so many DSMers so what’s the harm, and no you cant put bigger injectors in until you get a tuning program i.e. dsmlink.

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dsmlink , I'm so tired of it being the solution to everything. Throw your 550's in there with a 2g maf and you should be pretty good, wouldn't hurt to tune it a little, but you'll be ok if you don't.

Ok, so if I get the 550's,a nd a 2g air set up. Should I keep the boost under 18psi? The local (Seeds speed shop) tuner said he can't dyno AWD

Oh, also when I told him about my boost controller. He said they never work quite right, and they only get electronic boost controllers. Plus when I told him what I did, and how I made it he said...you drilled a hole? that defeats the purpose of the controller.

snakeyes711 said:

Ok, so if I get the 550's,a nd a 2g air set up. Should I keep the boost under 18psi? The local (Seeds speed shop) tuner said he can't dyno AWD

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You can boost it as much as you want if you're logging, the 2gmaf will pretty much override the ecu fuel cut, pushing it back to a much higher psi.

snakeyes711 said:

Oh, also when I told him about my boost controller. He said they never work quite right, and they only get electronic boost controllers. Plus when I told him what I did, and how I made it he said...you drilled a hole? that defeats the purpose of the controller.

Click to expand...

Electronic boost controllers are the ones people usually have problems with, stick with the manual. And for the bleeder hole you drilled, it has a very real purpose, you might want to shy away from that tuner for the most part, not saying he's not knowledgeable, it just sounds like he's used to doing things one certain way and only that way.

Hmmm, maybe I should look at getting a logger? I've hit fuel cut two or three times now but only in 2nd or 3rd gear. You think its wise to get the pump first, then the logger? or data tool first?

As for the local, your probably right he's going for what he knows about. I'd rather that then someone who doesn't know pretend they do.

snakeyes711 said:

Hmmm, maybe I should look at getting a logger? I've hit fuel cut two or three times now but only in 2nd or 3rd gear. You think its wise to get the pump first, then the logger? or data tool first?

As for the local, your probably right he's going for what he knows about. I'd rather that then someone who doesn't know pretend they do.

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Knowing what I know now, I'd get the logger first. And a bigger fuel pump won't prevent fuel cut, it will just safely allow you to up the boost after you by-pass the fuel cut trigger in the ecu.

Basically to avoid fuel cut you can, 1. Get a 2gmaf, 2. safc (have to have bigger injectors also I think) 3. dsmlink 4. eprom ecu with a custom chip 5. gm maf and maf translator. Probably more I'm forgetting or don't know about.

When you look for a logger remember that the cable is the expensive part, you can buy a whole palm setup off ebay for under $20.

Right on. I seen one in the classifieds for 80 but something about not being able to down load programs so I'm a little hesitant to get something if its not working correctly you know. Getting a 190 will prevent me from being lean boosting higher.

snakeyes711 said:

Right on. I seen one in the classifieds for 80 but something about not being able to down load programs so I'm a little hesitant to get something if its not working correctly you know.

Click to expand...

Right, ask him if he'll sell you just the obd1 cable for like $30-40 and then buy a palm on ebay.

snakeyes711 said:

Getting a 190 will prevent me from being lean boosting higher.

Click to expand...

Yep, you might find this informative. Road Race Engineering's Eclipse Fuel Delivery Upgrades

Habitatguym, your awesome man. I appreciate your knowledge, and time.

habitatguy187 said:

dsmlink , I'm so tired of it being the solution to everything. Throw your 550's in there with a 2g maf and you should be pretty good, wouldn't hurt to tune it a little, but you'll be ok if you don't.

Click to expand...

who stole the jelly out your doughnut , i said you should get a tuning program i.e. dsmlink, ok I should have said e.g. my bad, but then you go on and tell him the same thing, to get a logger and even said it yourself as an option get the link, that said and you obviously now your stuff can you put me straight on this as im now having trouble on understanding how you can put injectors that have a longer pulse width in to a car and not dial them in to the ecu, im not saying you cant but with what ive read it just dose not make sense.