Theoretically no. Detonation occurs in the combustion chamber, you want the knock sensor to be as close as possible to the CC. My problem i believe is from valvetrain noise or some other source of phantom knock. That is why I tried moving the knock sensor.
My alternator is the one thing I'm probably going to replace next if the rewire doesn't help.

More updates tomorrow - I plan on re-wiring the Alternator with some 4 Gauge. Different tightness levels on the KS, etc.
I'm so happy being fast in 3-5th gear again that I almost don't want to touch it.

According to John of J&S safeguard knock sensing systems: You want the sensor to be mounted as close to the centerline of the cranks rotating point as possible, and centered evenly between the amount of cylinders because although the knock happens in the CC, the force and resulting energy/shock/noise are transmitted through the rods and from there to the crank where they are then displaced out to the blocks edges of the main journals.

NOt my theory, but a direct statement from the owner of J&S.. I run one of his systems and love it!

After months and months of tests, i got an FPR from a friend who sold it to me very cheap. I thought it was a good deal, even though i didn't really needed it. Apparently this has solved my problem, because im knocking just on top around 8 counts max in 6000rpm, but no more part throttle knock, i don't know if it was because of low boost (8 psi) or maybe because, my fpr was weak already or a N/T was used, since it has higher fuel pressure, i was probably experiencing rich knock. Now, with stock Fuel pressure 37 psi, my car is pulling hard with no more knock sensor ground trick.

turboglenn said:

According to John of J&S safeguard knock sensing systems: You want the sensor to be mounted as close to the centerline of the cranks rotating point as possible, and centered evenly between the amount of cylinders because although the knock happens in the CC, the force and resulting energy/shock/noise are transmitted through the rods and from there to the crank where they are then displaced out to the blocks edges of the main journals.

NOt my theory, but a direct statement from the owner of J&S.. I run one of his systems and love it!

Click to expand...

Makes sense and I'd have to agree with that theory, however i do see a lot of OEMs mounting their knock sensors closer to the head. Lexus RX330 for example has their knock sensors mounted in the valley between the two cylinder heads.

Only issue i see with that theory is the possibility of small or limited amount of detonation occurring therefore not transmitting as much of a shock to the crankshaft that the knock sensor could detect.(With what might be absorbed through bearings + the oil film) If its our knock sensor, no doubt it'll pick it up.
(Unless even the smallest detonation is quite a significant shock to the rotating assembly?)

**Update**
Rewired the Alternator with 4AWG and installed a VR4 90amp alternator.

Still no difference, my logger died on me so I'm just basing this off of the butt dyno.

I'm fed up with external dump to the atmosphere so i decided to take a big leap of faith here thinking this is what the primary cause is.
I'll miss scaring those unsuspecting victims with the fire-breathing scream of dumped to the atm. but I figure that will all be made up for with the excellent sound of spooling past 15psi(since it starts dumping at ~13-15).

So I decided to purchase the PR(punishment racing for those who don't know) Recirculated tial 38mm O2 housing.
The O2 housing is the last restriction left in my exhaust system since i still have only a ported 1g housing. With PR claiming that their housings (or any tubular) will out flow any fully cast ported housings...I'm sure I will see some performance gain...even on the 14b.

I'm thinking about tapping the hole for the flapper arm so i can put a bolt in there, unless my MIG welder can create a good/strong enough spot weld.
Also people who have done this...do you completely hog out the WG passage, or just bore it to the outter edge of the cast hole?

Hopefully this will put an end to all PK BS!

My first setup was to run my 38mm WG off my SBR Exh. manifold and dump it to the ATM.
This required the flapper welded shut as many of you already know.
When I sent it to the shop I told them what i wanted done and even drew a picture for clarification.
Upon receiving the housing back they decided to weld the arm since it would be easier.
I thought nothing of it and slapped it back on and called it a day.

Roughly a year later after having crippling phantom knock issues I decided to re-route the WG and dump it back into the exhaust. Upon removing the turbo housing and stock 1G tiny O2 housing I discovered two problems : One being that the 1G O2 housing is in fact one of the biggest exhaust restrictions in the entire system, Two being the fact that the Internal wastegate flapper was loose and can vibrate enough to make a knock sensor receive the noise generated.

Easy solution to remove the arm + flapper completely. The remaining hole presented a small problem if you don't have a welder, but in this case i used my MIG welder setup for mild steel and it welded the hole shut perfectly. I also discovered two hairline cracks in the housing, beveled them out with my grinder and welded the cracks with perfection.
As many of you know you should preheat the housing before welding - I preheated the housing by sanding the flanges flat on a huge belt sander.
This was also an opportune time to gasket-match and do some porting. Thanks to my new Mac tools die grinder with a set of free carbide bits, I had at it in no time. Finished it up with some 120 grit for a nice smooth finish and started to bolt it back up.
I recommend using copper spray on your gaskets + mating surfaces although it did seem to burn off some, i felt like it would only help.

Test run, logged the lowest knock sum I've ever seen at only 4 counts!
Sound: Definitely love it over dumping it to the ATM., The WG opens at 14psi and the exhaust growls to 18psi up to a way deeper, meatier, eat-you-for-breakfast tone.
Power/spool: Slightly faster spool, definite top-end increase measured via butt-dyno.
Overall: I couldn't be happier with my PR O2 housing, straight top notch quality with performance to back up it's appearance, price tag, and sound.

I'm in love with my DSM again!

So the Phantom Knock problem was due to the stock flapper rattling or I'm missing something?

Yea so did you loose the PK from moving the sensor or was it the flapper vibrating?

Flapper was rattling. I also found a bolt rolling around in the frame - contributing towards pk.

^^^Good grief. I hate diagnosing phantom knock. . .Something as silly as that can take months or in my case years to find. . . Makes me want to convert to e-85 and unplug my knock sensor.

I'll definitely be checking this as I also had my flapper welded shut. Thanks for the very detailed thread man

G'day. Sorry if I missed something, but do you have a MAF sensor in your air intake? If so, IMHO, you should recirc your BOV. The MAF measures air into the system and if you dump it air to atmo the fuel ratios are all over the place. MAP is ok to dump to atmo. That could be some of the problem??
Ross