99 gst spyder said:

i'm trying to decide which clutch kit ot go for. my stage 2 exedy are slipping and will be really bad soon. i have a light weight fidanza fly wheel too but i'm not even sure if i need to resurface it or not.. i'm thinking about getting act 2100 or act 2600...i'm not sure which one i should get for my set up and power goals...i'm hitting 265 whp and 269 trq at 14 psi. but i'm trying to hit 320 whp soon with more boost. anything is welcome...

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well ACT 2600 would be the best choice for you.Running harder then 2600 will be stressing your tranny out (overkill). And Fidanza Flywheels are not resurface able.Only the middle part changes,Where the screws are holding...

so how do we feel about the 2900 with the street disc.. ??

2900 + street disk: It is not a bad setup other than the fact that you are really using a pressure plate that puts alot of force on the crankshaft, and will also cause issues with disengagement, and can also result in over-running the capacity of the clutch master cylinder in terms of pressure. It can split the O-rings on the piston inside the master cylinder from the increased pressure and can fail prematurely. As well, super-heavy spring pressure plates are brutal on transmissions.


stealthtt24 - I have used the ACT 2600 PP with a Clutchnet Sprung 6-puck in the past. The link for the thread can be found here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...engagement-easier-synchros.html#post151169780

Essentially, it would be a good road-race clutch disk where you aren't launching the car all the time, or dealing with stop-and-go traffic that would cause overheating issues.

On my clutch, the pucks degraded VERY fast and one puck surface delaminated itself partially. I lasted 2300 miles and hand grenaded 3 transmissions in the meanwhile. Shearing teeth off of 1st gear, 2nd gear, exploding 3rd and the 3/4 hub & slider, all in separate events. It also chattered worse than a twindisk, and was not a fun clutch overall. It grabbed, but it also was very harsh on the flywheel and the pressure plate surfaces.

I had much better luck with the ACT 2600 and South Bend Clutch Kevlar disk. There are several threads on this forum that talk about my experiences with it. It worked out the best for me at high HP levels, was the most forgiving to the driveline, lasted the longest, and was also much more streetable. It essentially drove like a 2600/street disk setup. Great clutch slip/engagement, and when you dumped it; it held like a 6-puck. Really nice overall characteristics. I only upgraded because my power levels began to exceed the clutch above 600AWHP.


Here are several Good links so you can read up on the options I have recommended in the past (All of them concern 6-puck stuff, SBC Kevlar disk stuff, and Quarter Master Stuff):
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/326014-ross-pistons-extremepsi-com.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/324379-6-pluck-bad-awd.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...ct2900-vs-act2600-useing-sbc-kevlar-disk.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/307902-how-streetable-sprung-6-puck.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...utch-setup-problems-advice-needed-please.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/298627-need-your-opinion-guys.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...-act-users-awds-who-launch-hard-only-pls.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/292125-need-help-quick-clutch-disk-400-500whp.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/289921-clutch-decisions-completely-lost.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dri...tch-recommendation-underpowered-race-car.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/307649-act-2100-2600-street-4-puck.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/310067-my-350whp-build.html


If you do go with the ACT 2600 PP and the SBC Kevlar disk (it is now using a sprung Exedy hub with SBC kevlar material), please consider the two flywheels below:

*If you are going to regularly drag race the car on the Kevlar Disk, I recommend running the ACT Streetlite flywheel because it will have a better capacity to dissipate the heat from hot-lapping or continuous launching without damaging the flywheel friction surface severely.

*If you did the same thing on the Fidanza flywheel, the steel replacement friction surface on the aluminum flywheel expand at different temperatures and cannot dissipate the heat from the kevlar friction material fast enough. It ends up "bowling" the replacement friction surface, causing decreased torque capacity and potentially uneven clutch wear and decreased clutch life.

*If you are going to just street-drive the car and irregular launches, the Fidanza is a great flywheel when taken care of.

*As well an added benefit to the kevlar disk is the fact that it has the capacity to survive severe overheating from multiple back-to-back launches at the track (hot lapping days suck) and survive. It may start to slip, but it is not toast. Just let the clutch cool down for a couple hours max, and the clutch will be ready to go and kick butt again!

Be sure you keep your tools with you incase you need to readjust your clutch pedal after break-in. I detailed this in several threads.




Good luck with your decisions!

This is more for the newbies out there that are (hopefully) using the search feature right before pulling the trigger on a new clutch setup than most of the people posting in this thread, buuut....

It should be noted at although some people in this thread say "x clutch should be good for my goal of xxx whp" the ability of a clutch to grab is determined and rated in TORQUE, not horsepower, so for those of you building that 100whp 800wtq mobile-home-pulling DSM, keep in mind your stock clutch will NOT hold up to the abuse.

twicks69 said:

On my clutch, the pucks degraded VERY fast and one puck surface delaminated itself partially. I lasted 2300 miles and hand grenaded 3 transmissions in the meanwhile. Shearing teeth off of 1st gear, 2nd gear, exploding 3rd and the 3/4 hub & slider, all in separate events. It also chattered worse than a twindisk, and was not a fun clutch overall. It grabbed, but it also was very harsh on the flywheel and the pressure plate surfaces.

Click to expand...

Tim you've been through so crazy stuff! How did a clutch disk destroy the gearsets? Or are you saying that you were running enough torque to destroy those gearsets?

Great thread guys, once again some great information Tim.

I hate to tell ya all, but I told you so in the first post on here. (Just kidding!)
The 2600 was the best bet for the kid.


Man, for the price and performance, you can't beat it, hands down.

ok well the act 2600 with the street disc.. is what ill be ordering tomorrow... thanks guys.. I appreciate all the input

firebug01911 said:

ok well the act 2600 with the street disc.. is what ill be ordering tomorrow... thanks guys.. I appreciate all the input

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Good luck brother, let us know if you need any help with the install. I'll be doing the same install this weekend. Another tech article to be posted.

mikelv said:

Great thread guys, once again some great information Tim.

I hate to tell ya all, but I told you so in the first post on here. (Just kidding!)
The 2600 was the best bet for the kid.


Man, for the price and performance, you can't beat it, hands down.

Click to expand...

Yea here's my ACT street disk with a 2600Like PP after FWD ¿abuse? (read low torque burnouts). . .



We're a community that beats the he!! out of our cars and parts. We all find various flukes, and weaknesses. Whatever PP you get, the disk is the primary wear item and a good high friction disk goes a long way.

My clutchnet 6puck sprung hub has zero chatter and slips when I want and sticks when I want. I had a competition clutch street disk that had terrible chatter when the springs broke. I removed it before the disk exploded. Tim knows his stuff. But I've heard of many flat out terrible experiences with ALL clutch brands.

Here's my clutchnet 6puck after about 30K of FWD launching (lots o' slipping). It's rusty because the clutch has been in my shed for the whole winter:

dsm-onster said:

Tim you've been through so crazy stuff! How did a clutch disk destroy the gearsets? Or are you saying that you were running enough torque to destroy those gearsets?

Click to expand...

Well the fun of doing hard launches with a 6-puck and AWD on a car that makes power. The jolt of the engagement would shear the teeth right off the gears. I was making around 450-500WHP and 400-460tq at that time.

The actual clutch torque capacity has nothing to do with it. It is its engagement properties that suck for drag racing/launching in an AWD car with traction. If you have no traction, you will be fine......just make sure you have strong axles and good motor mounts and suspension then to prevent wheelhop after you get traction.


As for torque capacity, I run the same gearset currently with 700+TQ at the wheels. It is about shockload characteristics.

The 6-puck was a much much more harsh engagement than any sort of full-face disk (kevlar, carbon, dual friction, organic, etc.) under aggressive driving conditions. Heck, a 4-puck is even worse. They are made to be used as race clutches to reduce inertia and to increase torque capacity by using a friction material that can handle heat better than organic lining.


Matt, that is probably the best condition 6-puck I have seen with your mileage. I guess that the things that save you are less traction, less drivetrain shockload, and lots of slipping. I will take a photo of my old 6-puck. I now use it as a tool for checking transmission shifting qualities and torqueing end shaft nuts during rebuilds.

Thanks twicks69, I think im going to try this 2600pp/street disk from a friend for cheap, if it doesnt work out Ill switch it up!

Here they are.

You can see my useful little tool now, as well as check out the damage.

The damage is pretty obvious. The hub splines were in perfect condition, and the hub springs were tight with no elongation of the hub retainers. No overheating of the hub either.

~2300 miles of use. ClutchNet Sprung 6-puck.

I thought that lots of high(er) power slipping would do more damage than good

I would of said go with a Centerforce dual friction for the ~400wtq mark, as of a few days ago, but I just bolted up my radials yesterday and did a couple practices launches and well the CFDF won't hold my ~450wtq. Great daily driving clutch though, don't get me wrong, but my fear of it not holding a few more ft/lbs came true.


Also remember to overshoot your estimated torque by 10-20 percent to give you a safe bumper for durability.

just looking for some advice on the centerforce df clutch for a eagle talon ,making about 400+ whp . anyone have any experience with this .

I'm not so sure about that clutch but i do know and recommend you get a act2600 for your hp application.

Try searching and reading about it. The member daren_p has a good bit of experience with this clutch and a 400ish hp FWD.

Well i decided to go with a ACT 2600 With extreme street disc.. and it is running beautifully .. plus its rated at 513 ft/lbs of torque so i know it will handle every bit of the 450 im throwing at it .. Appreciate all the help guys.,.

what clutch should i get if do plan on moding my car in the near feauture

wakeforlife3 said:

what clutch should i get if do plan on moding my car in the near feauture

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Ive always liked the ACT 2100 for almost stock and 2600 if you plan to put some decent mods on the car.

Jim

Go ahead and look into an ACT 2600.

I love the feel of my 2600 with street disc with all stainless clutch line... It is real solid and responsive and can actually feel the pressure plate release...

wakeforlife3 said:

what clutch should i get if do plan on moding my car in the near feauture

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It really depends on your driving style. Do you like to launch? Do you slip the clutch a lot? Stuff like that.

If it's basic mods and no launching, then I say ACT 2100 or a CFDF. If it's the usual E316g with assorted supporting mods and no launching, I say ACT 2600 street disc or a CFDF. If you like to launch, go with something beefier. A 2600 with a 6 puck or a SBR or fidanza I've heard good about too.

Word to the wiser though. I was told by a local shop that if you drag a car or like to launch a lot, then you should go with something with a strong pressure plate, but use a disc that isn't going to grab harsh (like a street disc or an organic style disc). Yeah you'll have to replace the disc more often, but replacing a disc is a lot better (and cheaper) then replacing transmissions and T-cases when you blow them to pieces.

I would look at a Fidanza clutch. I will not be getting another ACT clutch. The problems that these things can get are ridiculous. I had mine first one for not even a year and a pressure plate finger broke off.

Check this out

Fidanza Performance Clutches & Clutch Kits

A three.two would be about what a ACT 2100 is. I called Fidanza once and they are great with their service and can recommend a clutch for you as well.

the act 2600 is the best bang out clutch in my opinion. last along time if taken care of aswell.