Sounds like he's not using a MBC, just the wastegate arm adjustment to raise boost. This will lower spool speeds slightly. A ball and spring MBC makes the spool a bit faster.

Agreed

Boost leak test (5psi or more above operating boost level) and a boost controller are in your future.

Worst case scenario, your injectors aren't actually 780's or don't actually flow that much, but thats usually unlikely.

90CherryBomb said:

This may be a stupid question, deserving a "search" reply...but I couldn't find anything.

Has anyone found a reputable place that rebuilds these turbos relatively cheaply? I have a 6-blade HX40 that blew on the highway last night during a pull, now it makes no boost and smokes bad.

Click to expand...

To reply to myself, for the time being I bought a replacement.

HX40 (I *think* 6blade) billet wheel for $200 shipped.

90CherryBomb said:

To reply to myself, for the time being I bought a replacement.

HX40 (I *think* 6blade) billet wheel for $200 shipped.

Click to expand...

Congrats on those numbers! I anticipate having my build wrapped up within the next three weeks and I can barely wait.

am I the only one running the BEP 38mm internal gate?

I have a boost controller, worked just fine on my ported 14b at 20psi. But the controller is backed out all the way now because we ran out of injector, so we tried lowering the boost as much as possible.its at like 17psi now but after 5k starts to creep to 23ish psi. So it is spooling slightly slow but it builds just fine I think. I won't know until I do a boost leak test.

JWoodley said:

Congrats on those numbers! I anticipate having my build wrapped up within the next three weeks and I can barely wait.

am I the only one running the BEP 38mm internal gate?

Click to expand...

Well, my hx40 2g has 38mm tial, but the actuator from my holset will go on my 16g 1g

kawboy said:

Thats actually a fairly small compressor housing

My HX-40 compressor housing required denting the waterpipe on my 7 bolt to nearly half its size. With a FP Race

Click to expand...

That's what's pretty odd. I didn't expect it to clear AT ALL! I wouldn't necessarily describe this compressor housing as small either!

Is there a chance I actually have an 8 blade HX35? I'm still pretty certain it's an HX40.

Something I was thinking about while in class, if I had a boost leak big enough to mess with my duty cycle I should run rich right? And I am leaning towards a fpr because it goes lean up top, and the injectors are trying to keep up so they are just giving what they got. If it was over run then the duty cycle would be very low right? I am just brain storming here.

I think you might be running out of fuel pump. Are you still running the stock fuel filter? Might want to replace it if it's not been replaced yet. Also might want to make sure that your FPR isn't leaking internally.

FYI I was running 32-35 PSI on a completely stock long block with the HX35 and I would run to 7500 RPMs. With 1000cc injectors on pump I would see like 65-69 IDC. When I changed over to E85 I think I was seeing like 85% IDC. That was about 400 HP at the wheels. I've just upgraded to 1650cc injectors so I shouldn't have to worry about injector for some time.

That is why I'm thinking you have a fuel supply problem.

kraka said:

However, the compressor outlet comes awkwardly close to the front motor mount, and I can already foresee clearance issues with the FP 4" Intake

Click to expand...

hey man I'm running the FP 4inch intake as well with a 2G maf and a cone style filter (the big 4.5inch cone filter not the honey combs style filter). Anyways I have pop ups as well, and to make the 4 inch intake fit u really gotta play around with the lengths of the couplers, I had to cut both couplers so the intake would sit right up against the inlet lip of the turbo and I had to make it so the maf was in a similar position with the intake tube, Btw to make everything fit you have to trim down the lip off the intake tube where the maf bolts to it to get another inch or so of clearence after that it fits like a glove! good luck

The FP 4" intake clears with no issues on an HX40, FP race mani, and 1" spacer. You can check mine out in the results thread.

Maglin said:

I think you might be running out of fuel pump. Are you still running the stock fuel filter? Might want to replace it if it's not been replaced yet. Also might want to make sure that your FPR isn't leaking internally.

FYI I was running 32-35 PSI on a completely stock long block with the HX35 and I would run to 7500 RPMs. With 1000cc injectors on pump I would see like 65-69 IDC. When I changed over to E85 I think I was seeing like 85% IDC. That was about 400 HP at the wheels. I've just upgraded to 1650cc injectors so I shouldn't have to worry about injector for some time.

That is why I'm thinking you have a fuel supply problem.

Click to expand...

I too was thinking the volts to the pump maybe, since it's a non rewired 255. The fuel filter is only 6 months old and always had pump in it. I figure I could get 25ish with 780s and be around 80-85 injector duty. It flowed 44lbs at 22psi and there were zero dips or spikes so I can't imagine a huge boost leak causing this. Wensday on my day off we are going to check things over. Your 1000cc were 22 percent bigger than my 780s so at 30psi I should be mid to low 90s for duty cycle.

I am only shooting for 24psi too, though when it did hit 30psi on accident I had a depends moment How does the car like upper 20ish psi on pump? I have e85 here but the location of the pumps around town are way out fo my way.

This is my lame log from the other night

ECMTuning User Support Forums

doesitonall4rs said:

hey man I'm running the FP 4inch intake as well with a 2G maf and a cone style filter (the big 4.5inch cone filter not the honey combs style filter). Anyways I have pop ups as well, and to make the 4 inch intake fit u really gotta play around with the lengths of the couplers, I had to cut both couplers so the intake would sit right up against the inlet lip of the turbo and I had to make it so the maf was in a similar position with the intake tube, Btw to make everything fit you have to trim down the lip off the intake tube where the maf bolts to it to get another inch or so of clearence after that it fits like a glove! good luck

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice! I already assumed there would be clearance issues in length aspect, but I meant there looks like the compressor inlet runs super close to the lower rad pipe ad whatnot. Fitting a 4" silicone coupler and FP intake will be tough, but so will a 2.5" LICP without hitting the motor mount.

Ugh, is there anyway I can tell by the Compressor cover alone (or general size) whether I have an HX40 vs. an HX35? I've been looking at pictures lately of other 8 blade HX35's and 8 Blade HX40's and they all look very similar to mine

kraka said:

Ugh, is there anyway I can tell by the Compressor cover alone (or general size) whether I have an HX40 vs. an HX35? I've been looking at pictures lately of other 8 blade HX35's and 8 Blade HX40's and they all look very similar to mine

Click to expand...

I too, have often wondered the easy to spot visual differences between an hx40 and hx35.

JWoodley said:

The FP 4" intake clears with no issues on an HX40, FP race mani, and 1" spacer. You can check mine out in the results thread.

Click to expand...

They're discussing 1g's... setup a little different

The easiest way to figure out what kind of turbo you have is by the serial numbers and/or measuring the wheels. I'm thinking its a really small hx40 variant or a hx35...

Figured Id gone and get my hands on one of these Holset turbos. I called the guy at that Goldfarb & Associates site about them.
(The guy said he inspects to make sure they visually look ok ) but they dont guarantee them working.
He said for it guaranteed they could rebuild it for me, but the total cost with the rebuilding it is in the 500s.

So anyways I was thinking of just picking up the hx40 "core" off of that site and hoping it is in good enough working condition for what I am trying to do. I think Im going to get a 6blade if they have one, but if not then Id settle with the 8blade. I plan on installing it to the BEP housing ( probably Turbotrader.com kit) when its time to run it.

kawboy said:

They're discussing 2g's... setup a little different

The easiest way to figure out what kind of turbo you have is by the serial numbers and/or measuring the wheels. I'm thinking its a really small hx40 variant or a hx35...

Click to expand...

You mean 1Gs, right?

YES! Hahah

trying to find the best compressor for my setup, which one of these compressors would flow the most Lbs/min. If the 7-blade hx35 is 56mm at the inducer and the hx40 6-blade is 56mm at the inducer, which one flows more?
these are the turbos i have and im debating over. which wheel flows the most lbs/m?

hx35w 7-blade (56mm inducer)
hx40w 8-blade (58mm inducer)
hx40w 6-blade(BILLET 56mm inducer)

kawboy said:

They're discussing 1g's... setup a little different

The easiest way to figure out what kind of turbo you have is by the serial numbers and/or measuring the wheels. I'm thinking its a really small hx40 variant or a hx35...

Click to expand...

The serial badge on the compressor housing is gone. What other 'small' hx40 variants are there besides the 58mm 8-blade?

The only noticeable marking is the D6H4 as shown here:



The previous owner (from the link forums) supposedly was 100% sure it was an HX40, but that's hard to prove without tearing this thing apart.

Anyone else using ExtremePSI's oil feed with there Holset?
My WH1C has a recess around the oil feed where an o-ring use to sit.




The stock Holset oil feed uses a reducer with an o-ring that covers the recess.
But Extreme's fitting isn't wide enough to cover the recess.

Wondering if anyone has had problems with oil leaking there??

I hate messing with the oil feed when everything is bolted together, hard to get to.



Teaser pic of my bolt on set-up.

Can you put an o-ring on the new fitting to cover the recess?

talonDSMerr said:

Can you put an o-ring on the new fitting to cover the recess?

Click to expand...

Thats what I'll probably do. After I screw the fitting down there are some small gaps where you can see into the recess.

Just wondering if someone all ready found a solution or has had problems with this setup.

The o-ring should take care of the gaps. I would also use some Teflon tape on the threads too when you're ready to torque it down to help seal.