Go to NAPA they have the same camber kit as the ingalls brand at a much cheaper price. I had the alignment shop install and align for no extra charge while i was getting new tires.

so like other things, brand doesnt matter??

I got the front camber bolts for $25 at Oreilly's.

I run Ingall's on my car front and back...works great. If you can find a knock-off that works as well, get them.

The backs will be cheaper than the fronts.

On a side...it's your toe setting that's killing your tires, not camber. The camber kits will just spread out the wear pattern if you maintain the same toe settings.

well, its my inside; not really the side of the tire, just the inside half of the tire... i dunno really how to explain it?

MS Paint...draw a rectangle and crop off where the tires show wear....bada-bing

REAR CAMBER KIT 2G DSM (95-99)

that's for the rear's or go to home depot and put together your own....there's a write up on vfaq.com about it and i'm sure it's all over dsmtuners.

i bought camber bolts for the front from maperformance but haven't yet got them installed.

97talondsm said:

well, its my inside; not really the side of the tire, just the inside half of the tire... i dunno really how to explain it?

Click to expand...

Know exactly what you're talking about...the inside 2-3 inches of the tire tread (not side-wall) is wearing down which would indicate negative camber. If the wear was on the outside it would indicate positive camber.

You have a couple of things going on...

1. Too much negative camber for your driving conditions/style.

The point of running negative camber is that when you are into a corner loads placed on the tire/side-wall cause the tire to "fold" over and give the most contact with the road. If the loads never reach the limits you will be riding on less tire (2-3 inch wear pattern of tire).

2. Too much toe.

Toe is the front-most portion of the tire pointing in or out. Too much in either direction will create a dramatic scrubbing effect on the tire across the pavement, even in a straight line.


Combine the 2 and you now have a tire that is not using all the tread most of the time scrubbing across the pavement wearing down your tires prematurely in one spot.


Just because the specs say your alignment should be XXX, you should really evaluate the settings based on driving conditions and wear patterns. Any shop that's worth anything will allow you to specify what the settings should be.

I actually run quite a bit different settings than what the factory specifies in street trim. If I'm going to be really aggressive (HPD, Autocross - 2 month season), the setting are dramatically different and the car doesn't see the street much during that time.

But then again, my Eclipse is just a toy.



Throw in caster settings, tire pressure and weight transfer and the tire has more acting on it than "just rolling across the pavement".

alright, well thanks for your help guys