possibly bad ignition switch itself could be alot of things but that is where i would start.

You dont have a turbo timer installed do you?

^^ That's what I was thinking.

sounds like you have a turbo timer

+1 on the turbo timer when you take the key out wait a minute or 2 and see if it turns off.

Sounds like a turbo timer to me too. Search the interior of the car including the glove box and armrest for the device. Or it's built into the alarm. For that you'll need the manual.

..but don't take the cable off the battery while it's running, or you'll toast the alternator...

There is no turbo timer my car is bone stock.

did you try leaving the key out of the ignition for a while?

So your car is dieseling (running after the key is out), huh? I haven't heard of that happening in a long time. According to haynes, the number four causes of this are:

1) vacuum leaks
2) idle speed to high
3) excessive engine temps
4) ignition timing is way off

Good luck.

I have put a new ignition switch in. Done the ignition timing and base timing and still i got nothing

What kind of alarm do you have on it? Stock or aftermarket?

misphit said:

So your car is dieseling (running after the key is out), huh? I haven't heard of that happening in a long time. According to haynes, the number four causes of this are:

1) vacuum leaks
2) idle speed to high
3) excessive engine temps
4) ignition timing is way off

Good luck.

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That's a different kind of problem.

That's like, you turn it off, and the engine slows down and eventually shuts off.
This happens when the carbon build up on top of the pistons gets hot enough to ignite air/fuel without spark and it will keep sucking in fuel and Etc.
It will NOT diesel for long.
30 Seconds etc.
This sounds electrical related, it isn't recognizing the key is in the off switch.
check EVERYTHING in the ignition circuit.
Do you have a remote start on it by any chance?
What I'm trying to say is.. wiring.
But if worse comes to worse you can wire a bad ass toggle switch to turn your car off and on!

Is the fuel pump rewired? There is a guy with a 2g that had this problem at one point because he rewired his fuel pump incorrectly and in the 2g the ecu and fuel pump share some wiring.

Just curious, do any of the lights stay on when you pull the key out? ie the brake, abs, tach, etc?
I know you said the car is stock, but are you sure there is no turbo timer?
When my turbo timer kicks, the abs and brake light stay on, and the tach keeps up the revs.

You don't have a turbo timer but do you have a car alarm? My turbo timer is wired right into my car alarm... it was a 'feature'.

I have started looking around in the ignition circut and havent found anything yet. As far as i know there has never been an alarm on it. I got it from a friend and he said someone tried to steal it and i guess thats when the problem started. As for the toggle switch idea, would that be a good alternative if i cant figure this one out.

Toggle switch is a good idea if it comes to that. However, to satisfy those of us who keep suggesting that you have a turbo timer, please remove the key from the car and let it run. Time it. If it shuts off anywhere between 1-5 minutes, then you have a turbo timer. Report back.

Well as stated above don't disconnect the negative terminal with the car running. Not only can you damage the alternator, flyback voltage could result and damage the ECU. I would see about getting a wiring diagram of the circuits in your car and start looking. Find the cicuit that recognizes your key and on positions and check that first. My best guess would be a short to ground in that circuit. A short to ground would act like your key is always in the on position and not allow the car to turn off. Also like stated earlier, let the car run for a couple minutes with the key out and see what happens.

The car does not turn off after any amount of time. When i turn the key off the tach, stock boost gauge, and brake light stay on and active.

turbonitisdan said:

The car does not turn off after any amount of time. When i turn the key off the tach, stock boost gauge, and brake light stay on and active.

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You said it happened after someone tried to steal it?

I bet they cut wires, and spliced them to try to start it, thus your problems.

Look EVERYWHERE on the circuit, you'll find it.

Thats crazy... Goodluck

Hopefully Lofty is right, sorry I couldn't help more. Any new news?

I decided to pull the motor and do a rebuild and go through everything.