I'm building a track ready daily driver i already have the seats and harness but i'm unsure about upgrading to a racing wheel. I want some opinions on people that have them, im unsure because of how much smaller they are and im not sure i want to give up my airbag. Any help would be appreciated

Keep the airbag. Aftermarket steering wheels are just for looks anyways.

If you have real racing seats and harnesses (NOT ebay stuff, I'm talking SFI and/or FIA approved) and actually have them installed correctly and wear them as they're supposed to be worn (read: tight), then I think you should be fine for safety. We have a Momo steering wheel and I honestly have to say I love it. The stock 2g unit is huge and plasticy. If you really want to get into road racing or auto-x then it is a worthwhile investment. 2gs have a pretty lazy steering ratio anyway, I forget exactly what it is but nothing like the Evo. By getting a smaller diameter wheel you move your hands less than you would with the stock wheel for the same corresponding turn of the wheels, if that makes any sense. That means less effort in making sharp turns, which is definitely a plus for those types of racing. For drag racing, stock wheel is fine.

And a gratuitous interior shot of said wheel:
<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/MitsJanuary2007039.jpg" alt="Interior View" />

i have bride digo seats and sparco 3 points, i was looking at either a momo or sparco wheel, and are those glowshift gauges just wondering because i just ordered a set

toxicity883 said:

i have bride digo seats and sparco 3 points, i was looking at either a momo or sparco wheel, and are those glowshift gauges just wondering because i just ordered a set

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I run Glowshift gauges and like them a lot.

You can always get a 1g leather steering wheel. But Momo steering wheels are really good and safe.

I really dislike my 1g steering wheel. I was thinking about getting an aftermarket steering wheel maybe something from Danger zone nothing ricey but something like the momo above.

PIMking said:

I really dislike my 1g steering wheel. I was thinking about getting an aftermarket steering wheel maybe something from Danger zone nothing ricey but something like the momo above.

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Really, i always like the 1g steering wheel, i ended up buying a leather one from a gsx to swap out the 2g because their terrible. But yeah momo is a good choice.

Do you have to have a special hub? or is it basically take off the old one and put on the new one?

PIMking said:

Do you have to have a special hub? or is it basically take off the old one and put on the new one?

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Putting in a 1g into a 2g? No special hub needed, the splines on the hub are the same.

The only thing i had to get used to was seeing the large column housing in my face and the srs light popping up, which i ended removing the light in the cluster anyway.

toxicity883 said:

i have bride digo seats and sparco 3 points, i was looking at either a momo or sparco wheel, and are those glowshift gauges just wondering because i just ordered a set

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Nope, Autometer Nexus gauges. As far as the harnesses, do you mean something like this? If so how do you have it anchored? If you're going to be removing the stock steering wheel and airbag you want your restraints to be set up correctly.

i run a 12" grant steering wheel, it feels and looks great. but you have to get the grant adapter. +1 on the aftermarket

kahl23 said:

Nope, Autometer Nexus gauges. As far as the harnesses, do you mean something like this? If so how do you have it anchored? If you're going to be removing the stock steering wheel and airbag you want your restraints to be set up correctly.

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just wondering they look a bit like my glowshift, and i haven't installed them yet but i plan to eventually build a cage and anchor them to the base of the cage, either that or through the center of the passenger seat

kahl23 said:

By getting a smaller diameter wheel you move your hands less than you would with the stock wheel for the same corresponding turn of the wheels, if that makes any sense. That means less effort in making sharp turns, which is definitely a plus for those types of racing.

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While I do agree that with a smaller wheel less movement will be required to turn the wheels the same amount...it will actually take more effort to turn the wheels the closer you get to the center of the hub.

I've got a Momo that I haven't installed yet, I need the adapter for it. I feel like a trucker driving my 1g...sometimes I make mack truck noises for my own amusement.

can't you just unplug the sensor under the center console to get rid of the srs light?

Sparco is nice but crazy expensive

motozachl said:

can't u just unplug the sensor under the center console to get rid of the srs light?

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Yes.

I'm using a Grant wheel, it drives a little different with the "smaller" wheel.
But in a good way.
My blinkers don't all ways turn off, when I turn the wheel though.
Unless I give it a little extra turn to "click" it back down......

FORMONTOYA said:

While I do agree that with a smaller wheel less movement will be required to turn the wheels the same amount...it will actually take more effort to turn the wheels the closer you get to the center of the hub.

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Sorry that's right; less movement, more effort. However I would say that the benefits outweigh the costs for most people, unless you're a super anemic person trying to hustle the car around a track.

toxicity883 said:

just wondering they look a bit like my glowshift, and i haven't installed them yet but i plan to eventually build a cage and anchor them to the base of the cage, either that or through the center of the passenger seat

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A few things, first, a lot of sanctioning bodies require you do run 5 or even 6 point harnesses, so I would do your research as to what kind of racing you want to do and what they require before you go out and buy something. Second, the mounting point for a harness should be no lower than 4 inches below your shoulder line, IIRC. That means that mounting it to the base of the cage is too low and would actually compress your spine if you ever got into an accident. DV/DT makes (or made) a harness bar for 2gs that works nicely, and if you are having a cage made it isn't all that hard to include provisions for mounting harnesses in the correct location. Hope that helps.

thanks a lot my harnesses were on back order so i canceled the order until i can do some more research. If thats true that means around 90% of the cars on the road with racing buckets just bought them to say they had them. It seems like everywhere i look i see three and four point harnesses

toxicity883 said:

that means around 90% of the cars on the road with racing buckets just bought them to say they had them.

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That's about the truest statement I've heard in quite some time.

toxicity883 said:

thanks a lot my harnesses were on back order so i canceled the order until i can do some more research. If thats true that means around 90% of the cars on the road with racing buckets just bought them to say they had them. It seems like everywhere i look i see three and four point harnesses

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Good move. For straight line racing you wont need a harness until you're running 11.49 or faster, as according to the 2009 IHRA rulebook. Once you get there you need an SFI 16.1 approved restraint. I'm not sure what the twisty track regs are, I really need to get up to date on that though.

Here's the 2009.5 CCR for NASA.
http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/ccr.pdf

Page 70 contains the info on driver restraint system rules/regulations. These are for competitive racers, however if you have any aftermarket harness, it must conform to the same rules/regulations. If you want to do HPDE events, here are the rules:

16. Seatbelts & Harnesses - The seatbelts should be in good condition. No damage may be present on the seatbelts and
they must be the factory configuration. Any harness or any restraint system, other than factory stock, shall conform to
CCR section #15.5, in all respects* except for the expiration regulations. Harnesses that are expired for racing may be
used providing that they are in at least very good condition. The use of a lap belt without any shoulder restraint is not
permitted. Passenger seatbelts must meet the same minimum requirements per the CCR as the driver seatbelts if being
used by a passenger. Note: passenger equipment need not match the installed equipment on the driver's
side.*Aftermarket DOT-certified belt sets, installed to the manufacturer's specifications maybe allowed. Proof of DOT
certification and proper installation is the driver's responsibility.

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Edit: No idea why this is showing up all weird.