misfiring troughout RPM range

cruisintalonawd · Mar 8, 2009

mods are in profile, I have no BLS, I have changed the TPS, coils, CAS, plugs(.028), wires, and power transistor. Car all of a suddenly started doing this while I was boosting down the road.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 9, 2009

Cam timing is dead on so i know its not that,my timing light broke but I've been looking into getting another

TwoLiterLaser · Mar 9, 2009

Cam timing is dead on in relation to what? The timing belt could have skipped down on the crank but the cams would still line up with each other. Rotate the crank pulley so that your notch is at BTDC and then check your cam marks.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 9, 2009

TwoLiterLaser said:
Cam timing is dead on in relation to what? The timing belt could have skipped down on the crank but the cams would still line up with each other. Rotate the crank pulley so that your notch is at BTDC and then check your cam marks.

wouldn't I want the notch at the T???

TwoLiterLaser · Mar 9, 2009

Where ever the mark indicating BTDC is. I have not had to look in a while so honestly I cannot remember exactly what it looks like.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 9, 2009

ok I'll go look again

TwoLiterLaser · Mar 9, 2009

I just pulled up some pictures and yes it is the "T" mark.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 9, 2009

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which one are you saying to line it up with. I alway use the T mark

TwoLiterLaser · Mar 9, 2009

Yeah. The "T". Get the marks on the crank pulley on the "T" then check your cam timing.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 9, 2009

ok its dead on then

DIRQUIN · Mar 9, 2009

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on your afpr? If so you may want to check to see if you frp is adjusting properly. If your plugs were black, it is running rich. Your regulator may be raising the pressure to high. Also you may want to add another ground wire. If your not getting enough ground the computer may be trying to compensate for the loss, and add too much fuel.

TwoLiterLaser · Mar 10, 2009

According to the OP his compression is only 90-95 psi. If the compression test was performed accurately then this is his problem. He needs to be chasing down reasons for such low compression such as blown head gasket, incorrect cam timing, stretched head bolts and etc.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 10, 2009

I did a wet compression test and it came up to 150 on all 4, taking the head off as soon as it warms up from the teens

Am i sumpoose to only have cylinder 2 and 4 injectors working while cranking the engine?

cruisintalonawd · Mar 13, 2009

I can spray carb clearning in the turbo and it runs better for a little bit, any help??

GRAVEDIGGER · Mar 13, 2009

Am i sumpoose to only have cylinder 2 and 4 injectors working while cranking the engine?[/QUOTE]

You should have fuel coming from all 4 injectors while cranking.
Also if you are spraying carb cleaner and it is running better then I would say this definitely sounds like you are not getting fuel from one or more injectors. This is making up for the fuel you are not getting and allowing it to run smoother.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 13, 2009

I'm about to use another ecu I'll report back in a while, unluckly it's NA ECU but I'll get a turbo one soon enough

cruisintalonawd · Mar 13, 2009

ok so it"s not the ECU, could it be the injector resistors. In the little silver box on the fire wall??

jrohner · Mar 13, 2009

Theres also a fuel control relay right behind the ecu toward the right down by the floor.

You should be able to calculate approximately what your compression should be at your higher elevation, but 90-95 is bad -- your rings are shot if it went up to 150 wet.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 13, 2009

Yes I understand that but I wouldlike to get the injector problem fixed before the new motor goes in. I think it should run good since it did before. The rings couldn't have gone bad from one start up to the next.

Judaspriest22 · Mar 13, 2009

like i said before, do it by the book.

try these things (after maintance if you havent done any in a while, for example new plugs) i suggest in this order.

1: check spark
2: check fuel delievery
3: check compression. compression for the 2.0L is 180-255 AFTER 5 CRANKS!!!!

(seems there is alot of people on here who dont understand when doing a compression test you NEED to crank it 5 times per cylinder.)

if everything checks out then re time it. common problem for sputtering and missing.

if that doesnt solve it, check clogged or clogging, or fualty, injectors

if nothing still check for a sticking valve. ( that was the problem with mine, before i decided to rebuild my head in my bed room.)

EDIT: checking your fuel delivery involves checking to see if your getting electricity to the injector, make sure they the electrical plugs are tight on the injectors. use a Volt Meter or a Current Checker to see if your getting electricity.

cruisintalonawd · Mar 13, 2009

Judaspriest22 said:
like i said before, do it by the book.

try these things (after maintance if you havent done any in a while, for example new plugs) i suggest in this order.

1: check spark
2: check fuel delievery
3: check compression. compression for the 2.0L is 180-255 AFTER 5 CRANKS!!!!

(seems there is alot of people on here who dont understand when doing a compression test you NEED to crank it 5 times per cylinder.)

if everything checks out then re time it. common problem for sputtering and missing.

if that doesnt solve it, check clogged or clogging, or fualty, injectors

if nothing still check for a sticking valve. ( that was the problem with mine, before i decided to rebuild my head in my bed room.)

EDIT: checking your fuel delivery involves checking to see if your getting electricity to the injector, make sure they the electrical plugs are tight on the injectors. use a Volt Meter or a Current Checker to see if your getting electricity.

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misfiring troughout RPM range

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TwoLiterLaser

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