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Holset Turbos, PART 5

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Someone wanted a picture. This is a pie cut welded custom DP. The reason for pie cutting is because I couldn't get the right angle. May be if you buy 3" donut, it will be easier, but donuts aren't cheap.

I used a regular steel U-J shaped mandrel bent tubing and it was more than enough.

Alternator is getting on the back of the motor,cause right now the DP is simply killing it, regardless of the fact, that is wrapped. Already bought relocation kit. :hellyeah::hellyeah:

What radius bend did you use? The shortest radius 3" bend ive seen was around 4", IIRC. The tighter the radius, the less you will have to pie cut it to clear the alt.

The last downpipe that i made for my car i just made my own relocation setup. If you can build your own exhuast, you can make your own relocation setup. t is fairly easy to make if you have a welder. Would have been easier to test fit everything without the head on the car, but it still wasnt too bad. Ill be changing my tensioner setup though because im not completely satisfied with that yet. I can take some pics after i get around to pulling my head if anybody is interested. The only pic i have now is of my fpr and my alt just happends to be in it.
 
Apparently the new design is stronger than the old units, but clearly they are still breaking (?)

I broke both the new and old unit. The 'new' unit was just the same as the old with slightly less material taken out of the back small corner pocket. I got fed up with the mounts always breaking so I moved the alternator back to the stock location.
 
This looks similar to what I am going to have to do. Id really like to stay away from the pie cut method, but more as a personal prefference than anything else.

Can you tell me what oil filter housing you are using, as well as your oil cooer situation? thanks.

The oil filter housing is the original, that comes on cars after 1991. Currently, I don't run oil cooler. I have brand new external, but not installed yet. And if you have the factory coolant fed oil-cooler, it brings filter very close to the DP.

GST-95, I don't know what radius I used, but as I said before, may be a 3" DONUT, will have tighter radius, than 4". Plus, I wanted for the DP to run a little straight after the turbo and bend then, not chocking with a sharp turn right after the turbo, even though mandrel bent.

I would leave the alternator in place, cause I don't drive my too much/once in the last 2 months/, but my old ALT. died and this is new, but besides on the old one the plug was a little down and this one is like 1/4" from DP. And second, the stud that the power connects to is like extremely close to the DP 1/4" maybe. It had a rubber boot on it, but it was touching the DP, so it burned/the boot/.


P.S. I wish, I could weld. My friend didi it for me.
 
Well, I think I am on the relocate everything plan. I really didn't want to spend the money, but Id rather have a really well flowing DP then saving a few bucks.

I think I have my oil relocation figured out. Im going to take a FFFB and modify it with an fittings to use a relocated filter AND a oil cooler. I am a little concerned about the breakages with the jays kit though. I've had enough alternator issues in this thing over the years, and now that I have a saturn alt, everything is peachy. But if I start braking alternator mounts, im gonna get crabby again.
 
Well, I think I am on the relocate everything plan. I really didn't want to spend the money, but Id rather have a really well flowing DP then saving a few bucks.

I think I have my oil relocation figured out. Im going to take a FFFB and modify it with an fittings to use a relocated filter AND a oil cooler. I am a little concerned about the breakages with the jays kit though. I've had enough alternator issues in this thing over the years, and now that I have a saturn alt, everything is peachy. But if I start braking alternator mounts, im gonna get crabby again.


This is the DP i made for my PTE. My welder/welding skills arent the greatest, but it turned out the way i wanted it and didnt pie cut the first bend. The first bend was 4" radius and the rest were 6" radius after that.
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If you are going to modify an oil filter housing for relocated filter and external oil cooler, id suggest modifying a 90 housing. The 90 has a built in thermostat for the external cooler. Without an oil thermostat, you will never get your oil up to operating temp. I will probably be doing this soon because right now i have no cooler. I will also be running a bumper exit exhaust now, so id like to free up a little more space.
 
I'm thinking about doing an inline thermostat. The fffb will get the most clearance. But, I have an idea to net the same clearance with the 90 style as well. So it might simply come down to cost. I need to get an extra filter bracket to play with, and see if it is feasible.
 
so what would you guys recommend for more power out of my setup (mods in profile). I'm on pump 93oct @20-22PSI. I don't think i want to crank the boost up on 93oct anymore. DSMlink HP est about 430-445whp and about 360lb/ft of torque on my last pull. 40lbs/min by 6400rpms. Am i missing something?
 
FYI-- Turbo Trader is out of HX40 Bolt on housings til mid march.

As is G Pop. I talked to Bullseye and they are currently making a few T3, and are going to check to see if they need to make more bolt on. They said 3-4 weeks minimum till they make more bolt on housings. Tim's Turbo is also out of bolt on housings. Left a message at VIP Garage but they never got back to me.

Good luck finding a housing if you need one soon.
 
Does your air lbs/min start going down when you are above 6400 rpms?
What about is your 2g MAS hz at 40 lbs/min?

Gary

yeah im about 39 lbs/min when i shift out at 7200, my bottom end has 110,000 miles and is 19 years old. I know a SMIM would be a nice upgrade. i figured the manifold being a hafe and ported, would work just as good as any cast manifold. As far as Tubular thats on my upgrade list when i go Hx40. to tell you the truth my holset is not as laggy as i would expect. i can make some boost as low as 2300rpms. 2200 hz +/- @40 lbs/min
 
As is G Pop. I talked to Bullseye and they are currently making a few T3, and are going to check to see if they need to make more bolt on. They said 3-4 weeks minimum till they make more bolt on housings. Tim's Turbo is also out of bolt on housings. Left a message at VIP Garage but they never got back to me.

Good luck finding a housing if you need one soon.

Are they out of just bolton housings for HX40? Or HX35 too?
 
Turbo Trader has a couple bolt on HX35 housings left.
 
Yeah they jacked the price up 80 bucks! Wow, now I need to look else where. I already had to pay more sincel I was going internal. Lame :barf:

The beauty of supply and demand.

I'm sure when there are more of these to go around the price will back down a bit.
 
need2boost.
Please keep us updated on your setup, i plan on running the same one this year.
 
The beauty of supply and demand.

I'm sure when there are more of these to go around the price will back down a bit.


Not unless stainless steel prices go back down. That is why I am having alum intercooler pipes made. IT is cheaper then stainless steel tubing once you include the welding time.
 
Yea. I wouldn't complain too much. Look at your overall cost. Nothing against FP at all. But a DBB fp3065 costs how much? Even used in good condition? The same thing applies there supply and demand, materials costs, etc.
 
Hey guys last night i tryed to install my H1C setup i wanna run. But I came across some clearance issues. My compressior housing and exhaust housing are both hitting the block! The exhaust housing is hitting big time and the compressior is just a tiny bit. So what choices do i have to go with. Im definetely thinking the 21cm housing is gonna have way to much lag. Heres some pics. What do you guys think.

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