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* * Advised me for good choice for over 800hp

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rev's

10+ Year Contributor
33
0
Jan 6, 2009
france, Europe
Hi,

I rebuild my 1G talon 6bolts drag car,and would like a best conrod and pistons for over 800hp
???No aluminium rod !!!!!
Wich is a best: H beam ? I beam?manley,carillo??? advised me for high revs!!!! over 9000rpm
advised me for pistons:Arias,mahle etc.....Ross pistons is good?I want stay 2,0l

Can you too advised me for a good solid lifter???BLE or other tomei


Thanks for all.

other pics

The motor is actualy broken .I want rebuilt a new bloc for over 800hp

Can you advised me for good pistons :ross?mahle,arias,etc.....
Can you advised me for solid lifter? BLE?Tomei and other

I wants the most information possibles


THANKS FOR ALL and sorry for my english

Thanks.

Can you advised me for solid lifter? BLE?Tomei and other solid lifter???the best

They I turbo manley is good for my drag application? for over 8000rpm?

Wich oil pan advised me ?oem or moroso

My budget is almost ilimity loooollll :cool:

The old setup

fiber intake to sell!!!!!!!
hks camshaft 264/272 with hks camgear
pistons JE
stock conrod
stock crankshaft,lightened and balanced
efi technology
hks boost controler
crane cams ignition
nology spark plug wire
20 g turbocharged
hks wastegate
hks BOV
3" full exhaust
2,0bar of pressure + 60 shot nitrous
stock drivetrain
980kg with a motor and me
full uniball chassis for track time and drag setup,koni etc.....
carbon bonnet and carbon fender

thanks

Where found 3G lifters and beehive???

????

Can you advise me for one intake manifold for drag race 1G

I hesite enter: magnus,jm fab,ams.....

I a maximum of opinion wants (conception,flow,volume etc.....)

Hi,

I would like wich is a best solid lifter for over 9000rpm???
Tomei,BLE etc.....

Large modifications?

Where found a examples and pics of assembly of solid lifter???

Thanks.

motec M800 or news motec

I rebuilt a news bloc in first time,
next cylinder head...
and next motec management...

vp racing C16

Hi,

I would like wich good intercooler for over 800hp??? drag and street.
No water intercooler.

thanks for all

Wich spring/retainer kit for over 9000 rpm advised me???

I think assembly hks camshaft 272/272° or 288/288°

Thanks
 

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I would probably call some of the shops that build 8-9sec motors/cars and get multiple opinions. Try Buschur,Magnus,ffwd,ams,slowboy,etc. There are most likely going to be a few choices for rods,pistons,etc that will meet your goals.
Nice car btw, got some more pics?
 
What was youre previous setup? What were you running?
 
Pistons are all about choice, if you look at the Members Dynosheets that are in the 700-800hp there is no standard one that each people goes to. You're not going to get a straight, each people will tell there side of the story about Wiseco, JE, Ross, Arias, etc...

3g lifters are good and you don't need to worry about the rods so much when you're talking about high revving. Valvetrain springs is more important. I'd recommend beehive springs and no need to worry about the oil pan.
 
Kiggly Racing sells the beehive springs. You can find 3g Revised lifters from JNZ Tuning and definitely on Ebay (I picked mine up for $80/full set).

You are definitely going to want a far more aggressive cam to compliment the new setup, and I assume you will be running some giant T4 varient turbo on a custom manifold?
 
I would go with CP Pistons and Carillo rods. Thats what we use in the race car and we've been 8.8. Check us out on youtube. Pollo Performance. And if you need anything give us a call and we'll help you out. Can do whatever you need. Built trans, roll cages, race heads, manifolds "intake and exhaust". What EMS are you using. Id recommend doing DSS axles and driveshaft. And at the least a twin dics. What about fuel?
 
Wich valve advised me? Ferrea ? Supertech? manley?

Advised me 1mm oversize?or stock size?
 
rev's, he is correct, we need to know what you are actually doing with your setup to give you proper advice.


fwdmaster-
What cams and lift are you going to be running? Solid or hydraulic lifters? Boost levels? Displacement engine setup?

The Kiggly springs should work fine, otherwise, I would look at the SuperTech dual valve springs; they make a couple versions for the DSM, and can be found on their website catalog at SUPERTECH V 2.0 :::::::::::: . Click on "inventory" on the top of the page, then "performance valves and springs" tab on the left side of the screen, and use the arrow tabs on the top-right section of the catalog to scroll down to page 22-24 of 57pages. There will be three offerings for dual valve springs, and one offering for a single valve spring application. You will want one that has a seat pressure that will handle the boost pressue you are going to run by a multiplier of 1.75 or 2 preferably (usually 1.5 times the maximum boost level will be sufficient, but for realistic rpm range and realistic cams) for protection and to take into account that the spring rate will slowly lower over time due to wear from heat cycles as well as usage. The first two offerings, SPR-M1005D and M1007D should both be decent springs for 9Krpm, but will definitely need to be matched to the camshaft and the valvetrain and turbo boost levels.


These tiny details are extremely important when talking about valve springs. You will also want a machinist installing them that can spring test the spring properly and shim it properly so that you can acheive the proper seat pressure so it doesn't bind and will work properly on your application.

So, if we knew your camshaft selection with details of its lift and duration, along with the rest of the cylinder head components to be used, your max rpm (you said 9000rpm), what turbo to be used and what will be the maximum boost level.

Thanks, and good luck!
 
Also, which car is this going on? None of the modifications you have listed in your profile would safely support 9000rpm -- engine, engine management, fuel system, turbo, camshafts, intake manifold or valvetrain. Your existing powerband is way lower than 7500rpm as it is.
 
Also, which car is this going on? None of the modifications you have listed in your profile would safely support 9000rpm -- engine, engine management, fuel system, turbo, camshafts, intake manifold or valvetrain. You
r existing powerband is way lower than 7500rpm as it is.



I'm not the OP of this thread, I think the original person that posted this thread deleted his question,I just recommended them to get kiggly valvetrain
 
Gotcha...I have seen a few threads that were posted lately that were this type of question with no description; must be users that are getting crushed by Moderators early in the game.

Sorry to get confused with your car and setup.
 
my futur config twicks69

motec M800 or news motec coming soon for 2009 (magnésium series)
I stay in 2,0L
ross pistons bored 0.20
eagle crankshaft
injector rc 1000cc or 1200cc
intake manifold ams or jm fab
camshaft???
valve spring???spring retainers
solid lifter tomei or BLE
aeromotive regulator
I think for the turbocharger : turbonetics,FP.......

You want other infos?
 
You will want one that has a seat pressure that will handle the boost pressue you are going to run by a multiplier of 1.75 or 2 preferably (usually 1.5 times the maximum boost level will be sufficient

I just have a couple things to add in here.

The above quoted information is, unfortunately, a perpetuation of an old wive's tale with no foundation in engineering or reality. In a running engine, the chamber side of the valve follows the same pressures as the port side of the valve and more boost does not require any additional spring pressure. I've been involved with two programs that are running enough boost that the pressure in the port times the valve area at the seat ID would open the valves with the head sitting off the car. Both of them work just fine. One has only about 1000rpm margin for overrev NA, yet works fine to this same rpm range turbocharged at over 35psi. That engine only has ~45lbs on the seat with a 34mm valve (it is not a mitsu).

The other thing I wanted to comment on is solid lifters. Unless you have a cam profile that is specifically designed for a solid lifter, don't run them. Hydraulic profiles don't have the lash take-up ramps a solid lifter requires. This beats up every single part in the valvetrain. I personally don't see much use in a solid lifter. I'm running hydraulic lifters and so are all the other fast guys I've talked to about it. As long as the valve spring stays in control, the lifter doesn't do anything bad at all.

Kevin
 
I have eagle 88MM crankshaft
For the turbo,That advises to me you for over 800hp
i think for one forced performance or divided T72

My futur exhaust manifold Divided T4 Manifold - Gen 2 from shearer fabrications
 
for a engine management this motec M800 or news motec coming soon (magnésium series)
for fuel : injector rc engineering 1200cc
 
Kevin, thank you for the clarification regarding my comments. I was given that information by some of my engine builders that deal with some really high-end Professional engines for marine, Nascar, and other NHRA racing bodies. This was when I contacted you concerning the Beehive Springs that you are selling after my single spring Crower's floated and shredded the head on the dyno last summer during testing of the intake manifold. I think I talked to you on a Friday afternoon or Saturday, and we were looking for insane turn-around on valve springs, so I ended up with a set of Supertech dual springs (SPR-1007D) and followed his shimming instructions for my application. I am also running a custom Comp cam with a 288 profile and a slightly higher lift than the HKS version (I couldn't tell you off the top of my head right now what the lift is at; I have a profile paper in my files, and I am not capable of moving on my own powers right now).

Either way, keeping the spring stable is very important and will save the rest of the valvetrain. In my circumstance, the old Crower springs ended up testing around 41-42 seat pressure when they ended up floating on my car -- I was also running 42-50psi, so you can see what was causing the problem with float.

I would also agree with the statement by Kevin regarding solid lifters. You would want a cam profile that is designed for them, so it would be beneficial to stick with a standard hydraulic lifter design to run an off-the-shelf cam for our application.

Kevin, would you have any comments on oil pressure at the higher rpms as well concerning the stock cylinder head oil galley hydraulic lash adjuster pressure regulator? I have reviewed the information on your site in the past and the part you have made to help with the oil pressure levels at high rpms along with your datalogs. Could you please add some detail to the conversation regarding your piece you made, since I believe that there are many people that have not seen the part, and it could play a beneficial role in their setups.

Thanks Kevin for your insight!

Tim Zimmer

I just have a couple things to add in here.

The above quoted information is, unfortunately, a perpetuation of an old wive's tale with no foundation in engineering or reality. In a running engine, the chamber side of the valve follows the same pressures as the port side of the valve and more boost does not require any additional spring pressure. I've been involved with two programs that are running enough boost that the pressure in the port times the valve area at the seat ID would open the valves with the head sitting off the car. Both of them work just fine. One has only about 1000rpm margin for overrev NA, yet works fine to this same rpm range turbocharged at over 35psi. That engine only has ~45lbs on the seat with a 34mm valve (it is not a mitsu).

The other thing I wanted to comment on is solid lifters. Unless you have a cam profile that is specifically designed for a solid lifter, don't run them. Hydraulic profiles don't have the lash take-up ramps a solid lifter requires. This beats up every single part in the valvetrain. I personally don't see much use in a solid lifter. I'm running hydraulic lifters and so are all the other fast guys I've talked to about it. As long as the valve spring stays in control, the lifter doesn't do anything bad at all.

Kevin
 
Is there a specific reason you don't want aluminum rods.
 
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