Not to get off topic but I just finally got my .55 AR bep housing on my hx35 7blade. Question is has anyone else had a problem with the 2g o2 housing stopping the internal flapper from opening all the way? I just ordered an aftermarket ebay one with an atmospheric dump hoping that will solve the problem or am I going to just end up grinding that down anyways?

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The problem is the Bullseye flange, is a mitsu "style" but it's not exact and with the 38mm flapper it can become an issue. You must use a bullseye flange style gasket because the mitsu style gaskets hang over into the wastegate passage area. I had talked to Punishment-racing, and JM fab about making an o2 that fit it exactly. Later on I decided to go with an ERL manifold with the wastegate on the manifold and a t3 .70 3inch vband outlet turbine housing rather than the .55

I believe theturbotrader sells a o2 housing flange that could be used to make an o2 housing and sell it both with or without the wastegate hole depending on your setup.

Can anybody tell me where they are getting their vband flange for the t3 bullsee housing? I have a 3" flange here, but it's deffinatly too small. The od on the turbo flange is like 3.75 or somthing!

wancsta said:

Not to get off topic but I just finally got my .55 AR bep housing on my hx35 7blade. Question is has anyone else had a problem with the 2g o2 housing stopping the internal flapper from opening all the way? I just ordered an aftermarket ebay one with an atmospheric dump hoping that will solve the problem or am I going to just end up grinding that down anyways?

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Just because the flapper might hit something before opening all the way, that doesn't mean it'll interfere once you put the actuator on. Install the actuator and pressurize it until it opens all the way and see if there's interference. Worst case, nothing a die grinder wont fix.

Iroc_g said:

Can anybody tell me where they are getting their vband flange for the t3 bullsee housing? I have a 3" flange here, but it's deffinatly too small. The od on the turbo flange is like 3.75 or somthing!

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I have a vibrant 3" v-band and it fits fine.

Well ive finally got around to getting my car put back together and should have her running within a month or so, will get some #'s out on her as soon as i can. But thought i would share a picture of her, i had to do very little denting on the water pipe thanks to FP manifold. On thing that kinda pissed me off was Bullseye didn't chase the threads all the way down on the housing so i had to improvise the bolts to get it to work... as you can see in the picture that was as far down as i could get them.


Holset Hx40 pro

TxR6Guy, yours fits alot better than mine. I used a 1/2 spacer. Check the results thread for pictures. I'm going to be running a NT waterpipe this go 'round so hopefully the clearances will be better. I refuse to use the spacer again.

I just put in an order for my ERL mani and .70 AR housing.

Hey I got a crazy question for you guys. The turbo in this pic is built by AGP and uses a mystery turbine wheel, they won't say what it is. Do you think this could be a Holset turbine wheel?

The trailing edges (the edges you see) of that turbine wheel are much straighter than a 12blade holset hx40.

The hx35 wheel also has straighter trailing edges. Here's my h1c, which may have a larger hub than an hx35. . . You really need to measure the wheel diameters.

dsm-onster said:

The trailing edges (the edges you see) of that turbine wheel are much straighter than a 12blade holset hx40.
The hx35 wheel also has straighter trailing edges.

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Hmm, so it's not an hx40, but are you saying it could be an hx35 wheel?
HX35 would be about the right size I think. They also aren't saying what the wheel diameters are, but the compressor is rated at 55 lbs/min. So that's about hx35 size. The compressor wheel looks to me like a Garrett.
The only other 12 blade turbine wheels I know of are, I think the Mitsubishi wheels are 12 blade. Are there any other possibilities you can think of?

Gary

I don't think you can install mixed-brand turbine assemblies in Garrett CHRA's. The shafts would be different lengths and different diameters...I mean, I suppose you could do it, but it would require a ton of machining.

That turbo clearly has a Garrett turbine housing...I'd imagine it's some type of Garrett turbine wheel variation. There's more than you think.

Anyone running a internal wastesgate on a BEP housing? If so got any pics of it? I just got my HX40 on and have not had time to make a actuator for it so it just blow the flapper open and I'am really starting to miss my boost.

jusmx141 said:

I don't think you can install mixed-brand compressor wheels in Garrett CHRA's. The shafts would be different lengths and different diameters...I mean, I suppose you could do it, but it would require a ton of machining.

That turbo clearly has a Garrett turbine housing...I'd imagine it's some type of Garrett turbine wheel variation. There's more than you think.

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Well, I'm not so sure that it uses an actual Garrett CHRA. AGP calls this a Delta 55. It is available with plain bearings (not ball) or with ceramic ball bearings. The Garrett chra's don't use ceramic balls. The ceramic ball sounds like Turbonetics. AGP uses Garrett or Turbonetics T31 turbine housings on just about everything they sell, even the Borg Warner S256. The compressor wheel, they aren't saying what it is but if I had to guess just from the lb/min rating and how it looks, I would guess it's from the GT3782. The GT3782 is not available from Garrett with ball bearings at all. I don't know what the GT3782 turbine wheel looks like but I bet it's a 10 blade like the GT35 and GT30.
There are only a couple of these on the road right now and they are in the hands of customer/testers who got them free from AGP for testing and posting results. That's pretty cool. They are both reporting trap speeds of about 123 mph on pump gas (srt-4 FWD) and they think the spool is quite a bit earlier than the Borg S256 with same a/r. I think it's a really interesting turbo and it would be cool if it turned out they were using a Holset turbine wheel in this thing.

Gary

Pull the housing and post the measurements.

All of the Holset turbines I've seen look awkward compared to their Mitsu / Garrett counterparts- their inducer tips protrude much farther into the housing. Perhaps this is the reason they spool so quickly?

jusmx141 said:

Pull the housing and post the measurements.

All of the Holset turbines I've seen look awkward compared to their Mitsu / Garrett counterparts- their inducer tips protrude much farther into the housing. Perhaps this is the reason they spool so quickly?

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Thanks for the pic! Which Holset model is that?
Wish I could pull the housing, but that turbo isn't mine. It belongs to one of the customer/testers. When he first got it he posted a bunch of pics here:

Agp Delta 55LB/min install Tons of Pic!! - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum

Gary

That's a HX35. The HX40 turbine is nearly identical in style; it's just a bit larger.

The hex at the center of the turbine wheel is 17mm to bring things into perspective. If needed, I can take measurements and post them here, or take some more pics tomorrow when I'm at the shop.

jusmx141 said:

. . .their inducer tips protrude much farther into the housing. Perhaps this is the reason they spool so quickly?

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Yep It extract's much more energy earlier (at lower exhaust flows). This greatly increase the turbine wheel efficiency percentage. Once things are moving good and the flows is "filling" the rest of the wheel, the larger exducer does a good job of keeping down backpressure (flowing more). There's some tradeoffs with this technique. But holset seams to shoot for the most efficiency first (most work extracted, least work neccesary) then finds the aero tech to flow well.

I just picked up a WH1C today for a pretty good price. There's absolutely no shaft play, which makes me even more excited. How freely is the compressor wheel supposed to spin?

Any turbo will feel stiff if it's been off the car long enough that the journals have been allowed to dry out.

Turn the turbo upside down and fill the cartridge with motor oil, give the compressor wheel a few spins, then turn it back over and dump the oil out. The turbo should spin smooth and freely, and any shaft play that was present should all but disappear.

Anyone have an educated guess what the spool and power difference might be between an hx40pro using a ts t4 (18cm hotside) vs the small BEP housing on a 2.4?

Hey guys looks like im joining the holset group!! I just picked up a brand new rebuilt H1C. I picked it up for a extremely good price. This thing is so huge! Im thinking about waiting to install it intel my motor is all fully broke in cause i dont want to mess the bearings up in the new H1C. What do you guys think just go ahead and install it with a fresh new bottem end or wait till the motors broke in then install it. Heres some pics.

I'm fairly certain the factory breaks in the motor with the new factory turbo on the car. . .

So you think it would be ok to just install the h1c with the new motor. Do you think i should buy a inline oil filter on the oil feed.

Well, the metal particles could clocg up the filter, then your turbo is left with no oil. . . The SAFEST thing is to put on a turbo you don't care for. But I don't know if the work is merrited.

Alright guys, I've got some really good news for the community:

a.) I'm going to have the car finished by the end of the second week of March. I will then be maxing the BEP .55 HX40 Pro setup out to get some data for comparison. If funds allow I will do a 93 tune and then E85 as well. I'll hit the track and see what type of damage I can do.

b.) Once I've grown comfortable/complacent with the setup I'll be switching to an ERL manifold and the .70 housing and I'll go through the same progression with the car.

I plan on buying the T3 components and having them ready to go on before the end of this month.

If anyone feels the need to contribute to the cause, shoot me a PM.

Thats all I'am waiting on is the track to open which isnt until April 18th. They I will have my numbers for my HX40 in a BEP mitu. Oh will I guess it gives me time to street tune. Oh and put the new clutch so it wont slip. Still have to find a way to fap up a actuator for the wastegate, no boost sucks but keeps me out of trouble.