What kind of metal are you guys using when welding the patches in? Where do you get metal? Also, I have a MIG welder that I got from Harbor Freight. I have done several little repair jobs and made an 8' tall metal figure thing to practice welding and I can get a decent bead. The one thing I am confused about is whether I can use my welder on my car. Your have to hook a jumper cable like claw from the welder to the metal you are welding for the welder to complete the circuit and produce the weld. Will this hurt the electrical system in the car?

How's mine look?

Before:













After:

that is almost like mine, i guess im going to have to take some pic's of what mine look like now, after getting some sheetmetal and some pop rivits

So, this doesn't weaken the support for the struts? No strange behavior in the corners?

slipstream808 said:

So, this doesn't weaken the support for the struts? No strange behavior in the corners?

Click to expand...

By patching the holes with metal or by covering them up with tape?

steve said:

By patching the holes with metal or by covering them up with tape?

Click to expand...

hahahahahahaha that tape was JDM though

It's very strong I've put some pressure on the spot with my hand and it feels great. I've driven hard and it feels the same. I never really had a problem with it like it was though.

I just have to post an update on my 95 DSM strut tower that I posted in this thread earlier. (#151) On 8/2/08 I was in a wreck and was hit by a car going at least 45 MPH if not faster to make the light. This is the damage done to my car note the strut tower not a single weld broke or bent in that area. So to anyone that is nervous about the strength of the strut tower after being fixed with the 20-22 gauge sheet metal, this is proof that if done correctly it's just as strong as stock. Don't worry guys the motor and drive train are in perfect condition yes including the passenger CV shaft.

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/8/0/6/2/1/img_3527.jpg" alt="After The Wreck" />
<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/8/0/6/2/1/img_3514.jpg" alt="After The Wreck" />



tbs

Thats What I'm Talking About! Wooooooo! Rofl

You have my permission to kill the bastard.

Anyways, glad to see the strut tower job stayed in good condition!

How much is too much?
Heres what i have now-
passenger side

Drivers side

Well, technically as long as your car doesn't fall apart, it is fine. However, I would recommend fixing that ASAP. The biggest problem with that spot is that there is two layers there and it makes it more difficult to fix. Maybe at least spray some paint, sealer, etc on there to slow the process.

I've definitely seen worse. Wire wheel the rust off, convert it with that crazy paint then paint over it. Then just don't go hit big pot holes on purpose.

There's been worse. But if you don't do something for it, it'll spread. Cut the cancer out, weld in some sheet metal and seal it with paint ASAP.

Anyone want to make some money welding in some metal on mine?

Looking to find out if the front strut towers (the metal shell part that always rusts) actually serves a structural purpose or if itst here simply to cover the springs. mine are nearly gone on my recent project GSX purchase and instead of getting something fabbed I'm considering using the cut off wheel I got for Christmas.

Thoughts?

yes, they are.

The sprung weight of the car all goes to the strut towers. If they give, your wheels will be deep in the fenders.

I'd have to agree, unless you have alot of time, and money, and skill, and want to build a tube chassis car, you might want to start fabbing.

You need to make good friends with a welder. (Either the machine or a person.)

I had a rust hole maybe the size of a golf ball on one side and a tiny bit of rust showing on the other side and my car wouldn't pass a safety inspection becuase its structural.. I cut out the rusted portions, welded in new metal, bondo and paint and it looks like new.. enough to pass a safety at least.

You can always replace the entire strut towers if you have to (the proper way) but be prepared to shell out some $$

thats what you get for owning a car that spent its life in michigan, and not being parked for the winter. salt loves the strut towers. mine have already been done. didn't even know it till after i bought the car. michigans roads suck, so if your strut mounts are rusted out bad, try to avoid those huge potholes down in GR. good luck.

i really didnt know 2g's had a huge issue like that. Mine looks perfect. bondo would ###### work pretty well id say

Did you guys remove the motor to weld that?
I don't know how to weld and my strut rust is dangerously bad. The local shops say atleast $1,000. Yeah, I'm getting ripped off..

My strut towers got bad to the point of un-safe. I knew it needed to be addressed, and since the motor was out AGIAN, I decided to do it right. Got the Driver side from Mitsu and the passenger side was discontinued. I cut apart a green 2G...

Here's my 1/4 of the car.



The fenders, hood, bumper, lights, everything came out of my front end. Cut out the strut tower panels...



This was no easy process, tons of grinding, cutting and thousands of drilled out spotwelds later, we get to where these pics are.

During this time, I also took the time to remove the ABS and A/C. Cruise Control has been gone since 6 bolt #1. The only thing this car has left is P/S haha.

This brings us to current... The green piece was disected and carefully mocked up, measured and clamped into place on my car. These were from today.




And Here's the VIN plate of the car that gave it's life to save mine and make Nick's ****in Nasty!... (I saved it as a memento)



Passenger side was welded on friday and now stands on it's own! No more clamps!!




Haha, welded my last initial on the inside of the bracing. This gets covered by an outside panel (part of the inner fender apron) so no one besides me and the people seeing this pic will know it's there::




Inclimate weather held me back from any real progress last week (Mainly because I was distracted by the urge to ride/play in the snow :
But I was back at it today, got the driver side completely drilled out and removed from the car today. Also test fitted the new OEM piece.

Surface Prep/Measurement/Final Clamp are tomorrow, then Christmas break then should be able to weld on Friday...

Pics
Old and New next to each other

Missing


Firewall is a little weak but repairable


This is a local's car, just posting it for documentation.

Reading comprehension is > you

The Old Piece was pretty ****ty, this side was FAR worse than the other side


And Finally... Test Fitment...




IF and a huge IF everything stays on schedule, should be able to re-assemble the suspension, roll it over to paint, prep and spray the bay by the end of next week.

Incredible effort, and well done, but good god. Why didn't you grab another car?