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FP green vs. HX35w/HX40

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626freak

15+ Year Contributor
64
0
Dec 31, 2007
new castle, Indiana
im done with my motor now all i have to do is decide on my turbo setup i alredy have an fp green and fp race mani and a nice o2 set up with a tial 38mm
but im not sure i wanna go with the green now.i did have a big 16g and i bought the green
and now im considering getting a hx35w or possibley an hx40w
i know an hx40w makes more power than a green but how does the hx35w compare
you can check out my setup on my profile and let me know what you think i should go with
also im gonna end going with 1050cc's and link here soon...or if you know anybody with injectors bigger than 680cc's let me know ....i got tons of stuff for trade and i got $$$...LOL

im just looking for some honest opinions/advice and if anybody wants to post info/tips or pics of holset installs feel free to
 
You already bought the fpgreen. Here is all the information/pictures/impressions you need about holsets. Pay attention to the first post of the thread.

A word of advice. If you know about the hx35 working on a DSM, then it is already discussed on this site. If you know about XYZ working on a DSM, then it is already discussed on this site. Your best modification is yourself. You can research using the search feature and find everything you need to know about the fp green and hx35 right here.

I will leave you with this, on a 2.0L motor, the bolton hx35 spools about 400rpms faster than the fpgreen and has about the same peak hp potential. But you already bought the green. If you bought it used then you won't be taking a huge loss. You have enough motor to merit using an hx40. Did you build with forged internals just to run a little under 500whp frequently?
 
I would say try out the FP Green since you have it. Resale on the turbo won't change much compared to if you sell it without being run. I see no reason to lose money on the Green to gain 400 rpm in spool time. I personally don't mind laggy turbos though.
 
Yea, the hx35 with a turbine housing that will sacrifice about 400rpms later spool will give you enough turbo for 580ish whp. The hx40 also spools at about that same speed, and depending on the compressor choice, that would be enough turbo for 650+whp (as a bolton LOL. So if you're going to want more power than 500whp at the most, then go for a turbo upgrade, otherwise just deal with the lag. It would make more financial sense, but then again, you're wasting your $900 piston/rod set to stick with the FP green. Stock 6bolt rods can handle an fpgreen just fine.
 
id have to say my goal is 550whp give or take a few i bought the green used so if i get rid of it i wont loose nothing really.

by the way id be using the BEP t3 for the hx35.

and i just bought an hx35,i have both the green and the
hx35

i think im just gonna go ahead and go with the hx35 after advice and more carefull reading , the t3 housing spools even faster and flows a little more...so bye bye to the green
and if anybody wants to trade a t3 manifold for a new ceramic coated fp manifold pm me

thanks to everybody for the advice so far
 
The t3 housing spools slower than the mitsu housing. With the t3 bep housing and the hx35 turbine wheel you probably have good enough turbine low for that goal. Which hx35 do you have? Does it have 7 blades at the compressor wheel inducer or 8?
 
My friend had a green on his car with a stock intake and cams. The FP Green imho is probably one of the best street turbos out there. It had awesome spoolup and pulled to redline no problem. It operates well in the 17-28 psi range and can get you in the 10s. It is not going to pull 550whp. I also know someone who runs an FPRed and I think that turbo is capable of your goals. I believe it is like a 60-1 compressor mated to a tdo6h turbine. It spools surprisingly quick, and has tons of topend! This person still has stock cams and only runs 22psi because its a stock motor. It pulls like a rocket to 7500rpm, very powerful turbo and still very streetable imho. I ran a holset hx35 a few years back on my last dsm. I do think the hx40 is capable of meeting your goals. Also something like a bolt on gt35r! The most youll get out of the Fpgreen is probably 430-460whp.
 
You'll also need to upgrade those 680cc injectors before you acheive your 550whp. You should throw the green on there because they will be perfect with the 680s and have some fun and then go E-85 with a bigger turbo and injectors
 
With 650cc and 272 cams my buddy easily hit 460hp before running out of inj on his FP green w/ him getting larger injectors i see him easily attaining 525hp on that green.

And that was on 80/20 mix of E85 and on a garage tune, so dont count the green out.
 
I don't know. . . 480whp with 650s would mean that your friends setup has a far better brake specific fuel consumption than even a naturally asperated motor: about 0.4 for GASOLINE. Typical turbocharged setups have a much higher BSFC. And since e85 requires about 30% more fuel to release the same energy in the combustion chamber (31.1 MJ/kg vs. 44.4 MJ/kg), a mix would make this number even more far fetched. Curt Brown has put up some great BSFC numbers. But nothing close to .4!

If you don't know how much airflow the turbo was pushing, then you don't know if the turbo and injectors reached their limit at the same time or not.

The green has the 49lb/min 50-trim compressor. And the td06 20g turbine. It can be counted out for 550whp on the OPs current engine bay. Yes, it's possible. But how much more money does the OP have to spend (drivetrain weight reduction, head work, intake manifold upgrade, etc.)? The turbo he just bought with the t3 bep housing will net that goal much easier and with less boltons. Depending on the hx35 he has, he will have a turbo that flows as much as the fpred and spool about as fast as the fpgreen.
 
i got an 8blade compressor i almost bought a 7blade off ebay but i went with my better judgement and chose not to, i didnt want to take a chance on it being junk
also im in the process of trading my fp manifold to a member on here for a sbr t3 tubular manifold to match the t3 bep housing.
what is the spool of the t3 bep housing and t3 manifold in comparison to a bep mitsu housing and fp manifold....for the hx35w 8blade compressor
 
There are old .55 a/r t3 bep turbine housings still floating around. The newer t3 bep turbine housing is a .70 a/r housing and spool speed should be about 20psi by 3900rpms. The .55 a/r housing t3 or mitsu flanged spool about 400rpms sooner.

The hx35 with the .70 a/r housing will give you better pump gas numbers. The hx35 with the .55 a/r housing has done 11.2@126. And 494whp at 25psi. You'll be able to push to the very limit of the 8blade hx35 compressor with the .70 a/r housing. The 8blade hx35 compressor wheel shows 52lb/min on the compressor map like the gt30r and has better high boost efficiency than the gt30r. You will have a journal bearing turbo that spools faster than the gt3076r and will flow about the same.
 
On my 4th 1G dsm I went from a s16g to an FP green.
Certainly the s16 would spool a lot quicker, enough to spin AWD.
The green would start boosting at 4500rpms, and be spooled at 5000rpms.
It is definitly an AWESOME street turbo.
The BEST thing about it is it's oil AND water cooled. That means relibility and no shaft play.

Now on my 5th 1G and I have an HX40. It's not done yet (aem sucks) but just driving around the in front of the house I can see the hx40 will spool quicker.

I can tell you already though being oil only the shaft has more play in it then the FP green did.

You can see a vid of my fpgreen talon

Garages > Aaron91RS's Garage - FQuick.com
 
^being oil and water fed, has nothing to do with shaft play. Also my HX35 has 0 shaft play, I didn't believe it till i tried it,
 
liked the hollywood style video and the music
i was dissapointed at the end ### i thought it was gonna turn in to a high speed chase or at least a race...LOL
by the way my green was only oil cooled


also anyone who has a t3 cast or tubular manifold and wants a nice fp ceramic manifold and a greddy profec boost controller lmk
 
^being oil and water fed, has nothing to do with shaft play.

BS it has to do with wear and reliability which in the end lack of that will cause shaft play.
Why do you think all those PTE oil only turbos fail but yet the 14b lasts forever.
oil and water cooling are a great saftey net.
I hate oil only turbos.
 
All those PTE turbos failed, well, because they are PTE turbos, not because they were not water cooled. Take a look at Holsets, they are not water cooled, but I sure as hell wouldn't call them unreliable. The water cooling just helps to keep oil from coking inside the turbo.
 
The PTE turbos usually fail because of improper oiling. The mitsubishi turbo cartridge are some of the most forgiving and dont require that much pressure. Turbos like Holsets and Garrets have larger cartridges and require more oil volume and pressure. If you look at a diesel ram, the oil line is pretty big and comes from the filter housing.
 
How about turbonetics turbo's? I new here and have yet to hear anythaing about them, do they hold up because they are all only oil cooled.
 
Both Pte and Turbonetics use the same garrett cartridge, so they would essentially be the same with the difference being the housings. I think at least for like 50,60,60-1. Now when they rebuild them that where there may be a difference between the quality of companies.
 
On my 4th 1G dsm I went from a s16g to an FP green.
Certainly the s16 would spool a lot quicker, enough to spin AWD.
The green would start boosting at 4500rpms, and be spooled at 5000rpms.
It is definitly an AWESOME street turbo.

Isn't that very laggy for a Green? I was under the impression full boost would be in the low 4000rpm range.
 
yea i think your right i think it spools alittle faster than 5000rpm,LOL
maybe it'll spool at 5000rpm on a 1.5l or 1.6l honda LOL.
 
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