Only Mitsubishi housing turbos fit on stock manifolds so you to get a t3 manifold. As for the other question, I just understand what you're asking. You also need an upgrade fuel system, tuning device, etc... You better hold on going to a bigger turbo until you figure this all out.

Where else would you want to run the retun oil line to???

there are adaptors to bolt a t3 turbo to the stock manifold but are not worth it just get a mitsu flanged 50 trim...

you are better of using a t3 manifold

okay well about the adapter is it worth it does it work???

and my oil return i want to run somewhere else its just ugly from the undercarriage and i am planning on running SS lines so i am going to make it look better too

but as for the fuel and stuff i have that under control
i am going to be running 660cc injectors
a walbro 190 lph pump
and an apexi safc


i just want the stock appearance with the manifold but i guess i cant have both

oVaBoost said:

you are better of using a t3 manifold

Click to expand...

I second that, if you're going to use an adapter it is the same as running a bolt-on 50 trim turbo because of the restriction. Furthermore the adapter cost a $100 so you might as well spend another $150 and buy a t3 manifold.

It doesn't even sound WORTH it to buy a t3 manifold...

You want sort of stock appearing buy a mitsu housed turbo... There's nothing wrong with them people go 11s all the time on them...

well i already have a few mitsu turbos a (B16g and a 14b and a s16g)

and i was not really pleased with the performance of the mitsu turbos so i mean i still want the stock appearance or atleast a cast manifold

nikkeebabee said:

It doesn't even sound WORTH it to buy a t3 manifold...

You want sort of stock appearing buy a mitsu housed turbo... There's nothing wrong with them people go 11s all the time on them...

Click to expand...

Whether you buy an aftermarket Mistu or T3 manifold it is AFTERMARKET hence in no way does look even to stock and if you go for aftermarket manifold I doubt you can tell the difference between a t3 and Mistu manifold.

If you get a t3 turbo put the turbo to good use and get a t3 manifold with less restriction. If you want it to look stock then get a 16g or a bolt-on 50 trim turbo with .55 a/r housing.

kris_stewart10 said:

well i already have a few mitsu turbos a (B16g and a 14b and a s16g)

and i was not really pleased with the performance of the mitsu turbos so i mean i still want the stock appearance or atleast a cast manifold

Click to expand...

They sell T3 cast manifold too. Treadstone makes T3 cast manifold for a decent price; 4G63 Eclipse, Evo, Cast Turbo Manifold - TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE.

kris_stewart10 said:

well i already have a few mitsu turbos a (B16g and a 14b and a s16g)

and i was not really pleased with the performance of the mitsu turbos so i mean i still want the stock appearance or atleast a cast manifold

Click to expand...

You know you can get mitsu style turbine housings on about any turbo right? You can get a 50 trim with the mitsu style turbine housing and it will bolt on to your stock manifold, which are tried and proven to perform well.

I'm not sure where you are going to move your return line to? Who looks under the car for 'pretty' lines? Just leave well enough alone, you can make SS line, just make it go to the stock location.

kris_stewart10 said:

well i already have a few mitsu turbos a (B16g and a 14b and a s16g) and i was not really pleased with the performance of the mitsu turbos so i mean i still want the stock appearance or atleast a cast manifold

Click to expand...

Well I guess that about says it....you've tried them all and they all suck.

Wait, what about the 20G? Or the Frank 20G's that use Garrett compressor wheels while retaining the Mitsu bolt-on center housing characteristic? There are literally (10) or more types of 20G's available....you've tried ALL of those?

I was just curious as to how much boost you were running with the turbos you HAVE used, as well as your bolt-ons at the time....your mod list is rather vague.

P.S.- You're going to kill your motor in a hurry running non-turbo pistons.

kris_stewart10 - Your turbo needs to drain back to your excess oil supply. From the factory, this is designed to drain to the sump of your oil pan, because that's where your access oil sits. So, unless you don't have a wet sump oil pan, there's absolutely no reason that your turbo shouldn't drain back to the pan.

jusmx141 said:

P.S.- You're going to kill your motor in a hurry running non-turbo pistons.

Click to expand...

Care to explain?

99gst_racer said:

Care to explain?

Click to expand...

Had a buddy run 1G non-turbo pistons once at 18psi with a 16G....broke the ring lands on (2) of the (4) cylinders not long after the engine was up and running.

They weren't new when they were installed, so it could've been the piston's fault (or horrible tuning on the owner's part)- however, I figured it was a big no-no in terms of durability. Regardless, if I install 9.0:1 pistons in my engine, they WILL be forged.

But I am curious....do you know of cases where guys made big power on 1G N/T pistons?

jusmx141 said:

Had a buddy run 1G non-turbo pistons once at 18psi with a 16G....broke the ring lands on (2) of the (4) cylinders not long after the engine was up and running.

They weren't new when they were installed, so it could've been the piston's fault (or horrible tuning on the owner's part)- however, I figured it was a big no-no in terms of durability. Regardless, if I install 9.0:1 pistons in my engine, they WILL be forged.

But I am curious....do you know of cases where guys made big power on 1G N/T pistons?

Click to expand...

Sorry for the late response. For some odd reason, this thread was never saved in my subscriptions list.

The only difference between the turbo 4G and N/T 4G pistons (aside from the obvious dish difference) is the thickness of the top land. I don't know the actually difference in thickness - It's not much, but it's enough to see. While I agree that there's a possibility that the top land thickness difference can be enough to not allow it to be as reliable of a piston, I believe that most piston failures with a N/T + boost combo were due to improper/poor tuning.

Unfortunately, I don't have any direct experience, yet. But I am confident enough of my theory, that I will be using a stock N/T block in my 1G build. So, I guess, only time will tell.

Side-by-side comparison pics

I agree, get yourself a 20g, and I think both PTE and SBR make 50 trim turbo's flanged for mitusbishi manifolds If i'm not mistaken

I have a ported SBR manifold w/SBR-14 turbo...
I am changing the turbo to T3 ....(mitsu housing chokes)
Through cast manifolds are reliable....I'm into making horsepower.