The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

EMREGENCY! Oil line popped off spraying oil, now car wont start!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DDGDSM

10+ Year Contributor
214
0
Aug 16, 2008
Hampton, Virginia
Ok i had a oil line pop off on the way home the other day and spray all my oil out over the front of my engine bay and i heard a "rannnn" noise and the car shut off. i fixed the leak. changed the oil, oil filter, and plugs. now the car turns over but wont start. its like im not gettin any fire. Help me out guys i need this car runnin.
 
well ihave alost everything torn down now. im thinkin about takin the head somewhere and havin someone make sure its done right and then just gettin it back so i can bolt it on. ### i can take it off and put one on. but i dont have the tools to pull springs and everything like that. I just dont wanna mess up swapping parts between the two heads. But i just picked me up a 20g yesterday so once it is back together ill be ready to roll.
 
Got a new head, new 3rd gen lifters/rockers, brand new stainless valves, New comp cams 101200 grind, hks adjustable cam gears, cometic head gasket. should be bolted back on and running by wensday next week. Oh and a new mitsu 20g to replace that 14b so i can actually use the rest of my mods.
 
giving you heads up bro, ( speaking from experience) dont put that cometic on there without having your head on block decked...it will leak! cometics require very fine RA surfaces to function properly. just giving you heads up.

From what I've heard, the way they are designed, you're better off with a standard HG if both your head and your block aren't perfect.
 
Ok i did the spark test. Im getting spark to the spark plug. i know im gettin fuel because i pulled the plugs out and i could smell the fuel on em. i put some dry plugs in and still got nothing. i checked all the connections and sprayed em down with brake parts cleaner and let em all dry out. tried again and its still not starting. Any ideas?

If that's the case, try starter fluid.
 
heres what ended up happening when it jumped timing and that rocker popped off. The exhaust cam had jump and trimmed down the center two braces underneath the cam. You can see their a lil thinner then the others.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I haver a new head and head gasket going down on the motor so im not diagnosing ne thing ne more. And the old headgasket was only on for about 3 months(fresh rebuild) before this incident so there shouldnt be to much stuff to clear off the head/block. Ill get my head fully off tommorow to do the final preps for the other one going on.
 
If the gasket that was on there was of composite material then you will have some crap to clean off. Once that gasket gets hot and bonds properly it will adhere to the block and head. You'd be surprised what you'd find even after a few days.
 
Heres the latest update. Just have to bolt up my 20g and put my power steering belt/alternator belt and im finished. Should have a video up tommorow night as long as every starts up good.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Ok guys i got it all back together i just wanna make sure I timed everything right. i followed procedures from a link on here to zero the CAS and i put the new cams and gears on with the notchs(on the gears) facing straight up all the timing marks(crank pulley, oil pump) are in place and the belt is on. Is this basically everything that needs to be done to ensure the motor is ready to start and not bend valves? With the cams and everything installed i have the 1 and 4 pistons up the 2 center ones down, on the head i have 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves slightly opened on the 2 and 3 pistons. Is this all correct?
 
heres another pic of the side so you can see how the cam gears are facing correctly. Idk the more i look it seems like its a tooth off on the cam gears but the intake matches the CAS and the notches on the cam gears(where the two come closest together) are lined up. what do you guys think?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Is there any reason you decided to go with the cometic instead of the mitsu 4 layer this time??

Was tighter on money and the reviews as far as handling boost were about the same.

No.

The cometic HG is an MLS gasket, I don't think you have to worry about blowing the gasket with too much boost. With that said, the major concern with MLS is the mating surfaces, it requires almost perfect surfaces in order to seal properly, make sure you check both the head and block before installation. Using copper spray will help sealing as well.

They are not the same, here is proof! Not a testimonial, but actual data done by a credible manufacturer (Cosworth). I think Cosworth has more experience building high performance engines than anyone else.

We've been doing a lot of product testing at Cosworth recently which is a good thing. Real company = real products = real research & development = real engineering. No Ebay made in China shit here man. However, just because something is made in the USA by a reputable company, it doesn't mean that it is a quality product. You find out all kinds of things in testing.

Cosworth has been coming out with some kick ass head gaskets lately. They provide the engine builder with Japanese multi layer stainless steel quality, but priced 1/2 way in between the JDM and USDM gaskets. As we develop more applications, we have more testing to do since we must validate our designs and sometimes also check a competitor's product. To do this, we take some expensive ass pressure film and sandwich it in between the block and head gasket. Obviously, all sealing surfaces must be perfectly flat and free of imperfections. Then we torque the head on top of everything with the head bolt/stud of choice. The pressure film creates a color coded imprint that shows how well the clamping force is distributed. Obviously you want a high clamping force around the cylinders. Of course you can't forget the water/oil jackets either. The higher the pressure, the brighter the imprint. We've found some very surprising results. A leading US multi-layer stainless steel gasket manufacturer actually manufactures some pretty weak gasket designs. In some instances they are worse than stock.

Here are some results from a popular Japanese 2.0L in-line 4 cylinder iron block/aluminum head factory turbocharged engine. No names, models, or manufacturers in this blog post. You figure out which engine. If you can't, you're probably either a dumb shit or a non-enthusiast in which case I'm not sure why you're reading this.


This test was performed with 8740 ARP 11mm studs with torque at 90 ft./lbs.
LEFT: This US made multi-layer stainless gasket has a thin sealing line around the cylinder and distortion right around the head bolts which compromises the strength seal. You'll also see the color is dull which means the clamping force is low. The funny part is that the primary seal (immediately around the piston) is very light whereas the secondary seal (around the primary) is darker and wider. They got it reversed.
CENTER: The OEM multi-layer stainless gasket. It only needs to seal 280hp so the engineers don't seem too concerned with with a perfect band around each cylinder. However, you can notice that the clamping force is significantly higher than the Co...(oh shit sorry, no names, huh?) the gasket on the left.
RIGHT: The best of the bunch. The sealing area around the cylinders are round, consistent, wide, and the force is the highest. What does this mean to you? Proper cylinder sealing whether your engine is stock or you're running 40psi boost on methanol with L19/H11/MP studs.

So next time you want to save a couple bucks and buy that cheaper gasket, don't do it. You'll be sorry you did. At the same time, there's no need to break the bank for that over priced JDM gasket. Remember: JDM isn't always the best choice. Have fun in boost (if you don't have one of the gaskets on the left).

Picture:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top