GST95 said:

On a 64 block there is only .255" between the cylinders to start with. I wouldnt want to try .060 over. It would only leave you with about .195 between the cylinders if you didnt run into a jacket or something first. In case you want to know, 63 starts with .330 between the cylinders and a 61 starts with .430 between the cylinders.

Also, going from a 100mm crank to a 92mm crank will give you 4mm clearance on each side, not 8mm.

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Yeah I coughht that too not to mention it's a 94mm crank not 92

GST95 said:

On a 64 block there is only .255" between the cylinders to start with. I wouldnt want to try .060 over. It would only leave you with about .195 between the cylinders if you didnt run into a jacket or something first. In case you want to know, 63 starts with .330 between the cylinders and a 61 starts with .430 between the cylinders.

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Absolutely, going 0.060" over on a 4G64 is certainly a little more risky, and the most I'd ever even consider.

Also, going from a 100mm crank to a 92mm crank will give you 4mm clearance on each side, not 8mm.

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I posted in a hurry. You're absolutely correct. The clearance difference would be only half the stroke difference, when going only from the crank centerline. I was being called away from the computer at work when I hit "Submit Reply". Dumb mistake there, sorry guys.

Slippi84 said:

Yeah I coughht that too not to mention it's a 94mm crank not 92

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The Eagle crank is indeed 94mm, but Magnus sells a billet 92mm for $1600. That's what I was referring to and what I used to calculate eveything in my other posts. It also takes the price to $2800 just for the pistons, rods and crank. My 2.4L street build is going to cost almost $1k less for the entire engine and that's with a completely brand new head and the additional price of a 4G64 shortblock core.


Oh, yeah and they also offer a "Race" chrome moly version with knife edged and lightened counterweights for a measly $3000:

Thanks a lot for the replies guys.

Anyways, now I know if I get mad money from somewhere, which motor I am going to build.

delta448 said:

Absolutely, going 0.060" over on a 4G64 is certainly a little more risky, and the most I'd ever even consider.
I posted in a hurry. You're absolutely correct. The clearance difference would be only half the stroke difference, when going only from the crank centerline. I was being called away from the computer at work when I hit "Submit Reply". Dumb mistake there, sorry guys.

The Eagle crank is indeed 94mm, but Magnus sells a billet 92mm for $1600. That's what I was referring to and what I used to calculate eveything in my other posts. It also takes the price to $2800 just for the pistons, rods and crank. My 2.4L street build is going to cost almost $1k less for the entire engine and that's with a completely brand new head and the additional price of a 4G64 shortblock core.


Oh, yeah and they also offer a "Race" chrome moly version with knife edged and lightened counterweights for a measly $3000:

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Exactly and the eagle crank is about half of that billet crank and used in the calculations I was talking about which would give you a true 2.2 Your setup would work but it's just way to risky for most of us dsm guys. I hoep you do it and it works out though cause that would make for a nice setup

Slippi84 said:

Exactly and the eagle crank is about half of that billet crank and used in the calculations I was talking about which would give you a true 2.2 Your setup would work but it's just way to risky for most of us dsm guys. I hope you do it and it works out though cause that would make for a nice setup

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Yes. If I was actually going to build this, I'd definitely be getting the Eagle 94mm crank. I didn't even know there was anyone making a 94mm crank until after you posted about it and I decided to research it out of curiosity. It's a shame that Mitsu only made two crank sizes for the Sirius 4G6 engine family (88mm and 100mm). I had previously heard of the Magnus 92mm, and that's why I tried to show the possibility of moderate displacement with the high rod ratio possible, using it in my example. Had I known about it before your post, I would've explored the possibilities of the Eagle 94mm. But, even with the 92mm crank you can still have a 2.2L, with a smaller 0.040" overbore you still get 2.21L and a 0.020" overbore gets you almost there at 2.18L. The only difference aside from the huge price difference is that with the 94mm crank, you'll get slightly more displacement but lose a smidge of rod ratio.

I'm not saying I'm ever planning to build any of the above combos. I am more a HX-35 kind of guy, so uber high rpms are not my primary concern. I'd actually like to be able to someday daily drive mine if it ever stays in one piece long enough.

JWoodley said:

HX40 crammed into the FP housing. Matt and I have been bouncing it off of each other. But we've been beaten to the punch. Another Link member has snatched one up with the same intentions.

No guarantee it will fit but we have the fp30 housing and the 88hta housing. Either machine the 30 series to tuck the 76mm turbine in the 68mm housing or sleeve the 88HTA housing and machine it to the proper size.

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Bear in mind that to use the HX40 in an FP housing, you'd need an FP housing that's cast for a non-BB center housing. The reason is that the BB cartridges have a shorter backplate behind the turbine wheel and therefore they tuck in closer to the scroll, whereas the non-BB turbos have a tall backplate and there's mroe space cast into the housing to offset it. You can see what I'm talking about here in the pics I attached.

I think it's a cool idea in theory, but in reality, people have made 600+whp on the HX40 in the BEP housing, which is about as much as anyone's ever made on the FP housing. I think you're at a point of diminishing returns and it'd be time and money better spent to just go T3 or T4 if you wanted more than what the bolt-on housing is doing.

Quick question any of you guys that are running the HX40 are you running your oil line off the Head or the Oil pump, David at Bullseye recommended i run it off the Head, but i opted not to cause im building a new motor for it and do not want contamination and tearing up a $1000 turbo with no filter inbetween it. So i opted that i felt more confortable running from the oil pump.


Just seeing if any of you others guy's are doing the same.

TxR6guy said:

Quick question any of you guys that are running the HX40 are you running your oil line off the Head or the Oil pump, David at Bullseye recommended i run it off the Head, but i opted not to cause im building a new motor for it and do not want contamination and tearing up a $1000 turbo with no filter inbetween it. So i opted that i felt more confortable running from the oil pump.


Just seeing if any of you others guy's are doing the same.

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As long as you use a restrictor or don't have crazy high oil pressure, I'd recommend the oil filter housing. I use this on my setup.


Slippi, if you wan't more info on the setup I was referring to send Jeff B. from Slowboy a PM. He'll talk your ears off about it. I'd be going with a .030 overbore as well.

Personally, I'm not a motor head so I don't want to delve too far into it. He explained the advantages of it to me.

delta448 said:

It's a shame that Mitsu only made two crank sizes for the Sirius 4G6 engine family (88mm and 100mm).

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There is a third Mitsu Sirius crank, but I think you would have a real odd combo if you used it. 61 crank is 75mm.

Oh, yeah forgot about that one. I do remember discussing it, but it's not really a useful size even for a destroker since you'd lose so much displacement with it and the 2.1L already can max out the best valve springs available on the market right now. Good catch though.

4G64 / 4G61

kicker91laser said:

Does anyone have an hx40 with a billet comp wheel? I have a 7 blade 40 here that looks like a machined billet wheel.

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Received my Holset HX-40 today, mine looks billet as well

Anyone with these billet wheels have reviews? isn't this basically the same as FPs HTA and PTEs billet wheel turbos.

So even quicker spool on an already quick spooling hx40?

turbotalon1g said:

Anyone with these billet wheels have reviews? isn't this basically the same as FPs HTA and PTEs billet wheel turbos.

So even quicker spool on an already quick spooling hx40?

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The results should be consistent with the other billet wheels.


Fixed. Thanks Slippi.

JWoodley said:

Shouldn't be any different.

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Not true just like the HTA tech the billet wheel is lighter and more efficent and quicker spooling.
Forced Performance Turbochargers: GT3582HTA Ball Bearing Turbocharger

Slippi84 said:

Not true just like the HTA tech the billet wheel is lighter and more efficent and quicker spooling.
Forced Performance Turbochargers: GT3582HTA Ball Bearing Turbocharger

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I was referring to the gains. It should've read "I don't see why the results would be any different than any of the other billet wheels."

JWoodley said:

I was referring to the gains. It should've read "I don't see why the results would be any different than any of the other billet wheels."

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Oh ok cool got ya I thought you were saying that the billet didn't make a difference I got ya

Slippi84 said:

Oh ok cool got ya I thought you were saying that the billet didn't make a difference I got ya

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So when do we get a Holset sub forum?

JWoodley said:

So when do we get a Holset sub forum?

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You mean a billet wheel sub forum? This is the holset sub forum all 100000000 pages of it

All these pages and i think there is only 15 ppl on this site running a Holset including me

So is it just luck of the draw to get a billet wheel in a holset? or is there a specific model that includes it. I'm particularly interested in knowing for the hx40.

Also does anyone know if holset or anyone makes a Divided T4 housing for the hx40?

TxR6guy said:

All these pages and i think there is only 15 ppl on this site running a Holset including me

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I just went back there are threads from 05 with people posting holset results. Juts because they're not posting doesn't mean they're not running them.

Besides ebay, where is everyone finding Holsets? I am looking for a 6blade hx40 w/ billet wheel.

Htturbo.com. Theturbotrader.com. Timsturbos.com.

DoyoFCT said:

Also does anyone know if holset or anyone makes a Divided T4 housing for the hx40?

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The t4 bolt pattern is standard for the hx40 frame. Twin scroll is also standard. As well for the h1e.

I've been talking to View Profile: darkhorizon - DSMtuners.com. He has an hx35 powered fiero 3.8L. He's going to shoot me a scan/log of 60lb/min airflow with his hx35. He's running the stock holset 12cm^2 turbine housing. I've posted the holset published map from the holset hx35W Product Information Brochure showing about .38kg/sec maximum flow:



This goes along with the other confirmed hx35 maps out there:



The hx30e-7755 is apparently the same 56mm 8blade compressor wheel and compressor housing as the hx35 as this map was given out from a cummins engineer:



Remember when we were saying that the holset website states that the hx35 supports .46kg/sec? Strangly enough, .46kg/sec is about 60lb/min. And I forgot that I had this old brochure (darkhorse reminded me of it because he had one too and showed me), Cummins Technologies Holset Frame Sizes. If anyone wants this brochure, pm me. There's not much there just the maps and the flow rating of the compressors and turbo external dimensions. There they state that the hx35 frame has an airflow rating of .46kg/sec, as well. Now on that brochure below is a series of holset maps:



Does the new holset hx35 with the 7 blade compressor flow more than 52ish lb/min? There was information on the web (it of course always is questionable), that the cummins engineers released two hx35 compressor maps. the hx30e-7755 and the 7765. The 7765 is big and flows right at where a 60-1 compressor, 57-58 lb/min at the edge of the map:

Is the above too much to swallow? . . . In simple terms, the hx35 may flow as much an FPred but still of course spool faster than an evo3 16g; all the while with much higher efficiency at high boost. We don't know for sure of which compressor wheel holset gave up the above map. I'm leaning toward the 7blade 56mm wheel. There is a significant difference in flow between compressor wheels with the same inducer diameter, but less blades. The hx35 has an 8blade compressor wheel and a 7blade compressor wheel.

I am planning on switching to a HX35 in a bolt on BEP housing this winter if i can find one.
Then i will post up all and any info that i have on it.
The information in these 4 holset forums is a lot to take in.