Here they are.

Looks pretty good, make sure to scrape all that crap from the old headgasket off the block surface.

i dont know if you figured it out about the bumper support brackets that you asked about but there are 3 bolts on the bottom side of them to take them off. .. it looks like its comming together really good. you said you where going to do the bottom end over the winter? i would say you should do it now while you have everything apart. i just redid everytihgn i my friends gsx and then had to take it all back apart to put in his new clutch and it sucked.

totaleclipse_05 said:

Looks pretty good, make sure to scrape all that crap from the old headgasket off the block surface.

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Yup, its totally cleaned off and the head is on now, not torqued down now.

i dont know if you figured it out about the bumper support brackets that you asked about but there are 3 bolts on the bottom side of them to take them off. .. it looks like its comming together really good. you said you where going to do the bottom end over the winter? i would say you should do it now while you have everything apart. i just redid everytihgn i my friends gsx and then had to take it all back apart to put in his new clutch and it sucked

Click to expand...

The bumper I have had off for awhile, I posted some pics of getting that off earlier.
The whole bottom end situation, I would love to do it now, but its my dd, and its already been down for 2 weeks. So you can imagine how that is, I am going to get a seperate 420a block so I can still drive my car if I need to, while building the bottom end.

rstare said:

Well none of that stuff worked for me. I had to pull the front mount and the drivers side mount....
Then I could get it low enough to pull one of the bolts out. Then other I had to bend the power steering lines to get out.
But its all out now.
Heres a bunch of pictures of the progress

Edit: okay I dont know what happened to the pictures....Guess I will try agian
Okay well I dont have time to resize them now, I guess thats why they didnt go up. Sorry

I got the head off, got it machined/cleaned, checked the seats, the whole deal. Put the new injectors in, got some arp studs.
Btw, you have to take the intake manifold off to slide the head onto the studs. Then put the manifold on the head, things are never easy...
So thats were I am, still gotta torque everything down. 85ft lbs for the arp head studs, Im not that strong, I can barley get there... (I tried it with the torque wrench and a vice) So that should be fun.
Agian sorry about the pictures, I will have them up, if I can reformat them...

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Exactly why everytime i get that deep into the motor, i pull it. Gotten to the point of where i can have a 420a out of the car in right over 2hours.

I will have pics in the next few days, but I have the head on and torqued down, 85ft lbs isnt as much as I thought . Its all timed, got the timing belt on and all the motor mounts back in. Power steering pulley and bracket back in and thats about where I am. So, Im just needing a crank pulley to get onto the alternator and so on.
Pics soon.

rstare said:

I will have pics in the next few days, but I have the head on and torqued down, 85ft lbs isnt as much as I thought . Its all timed, got the timing belt on and all the motor mounts back in. Power steering pulley and bracket back in and thats about where I am. So, Im just needing a crank pulley to get onto the alternator and so on.
Pics soon.

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Did you follow corbin's writeup for torqing?

I used all the Oem specs for torquing, except the arp studs. Followed the arp instructions after consulting a few people, they all concured on 85ft lbs. I reused all the old bolts besides the head bolts.
Corbins write up is on 2gnt right?

rstare said:

I used all the Oem specs for torquing, except the arp studs. Followed the arp instructions after consulting a few people, they all concured on 85ft lbs. I reused all the old bolts besides the head bolts.
Corbins write up is on 2gnt right?

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Yeah, the torquing sequence may be different with the ARPs. On his writeup, he states to torque the middle ones to 50ft lb and the outside ones to 30 ft lb (99% sure) and then turn them all 90* more. Don't know that exact torque, but I remember it being pretty damn tight.

totaleclipse_05 said:

Yeah, the torquing sequence may be different with the ARPs. On his writeup, he states to torque the middle ones to 50ft lb and the outside ones to 30 ft lb (99% sure) and then turn them all 90* more. Don't know that exact torque, but I remember it being pretty damn tight.

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Ya, the OEM bolts are 48ft lbs then 1/4 turn for inside and 24ft lbs and 1/4 for short outside ones. The ARP are 3 equal increases up to 85 ft lbs on all of them.

What size are you guys using for oil feed? -4?

I believe mine's -4.

Yeah most feed is -4 like even my hx52 uses -4

chris712vt said:

I believe mine's -4.

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In your oil "adapter" diagram you said you have a 1/8" supply, which is closer to -2, thats why I ask. Its the diagram on the first page of this thread.

The 1/8th refers to the NPT adapter though, which is closer to 1/4" hose size. Don't know why I put "1/8 AN" on that diagram no such thing. Someone chime in if I'm wrong but 1/8NPT, -4AN, and 1/4" barb are all about the same size hose fittings right?



EDIT: you know what... I'm looking at the picture of my oil fittings diagram, and a pictures of NPT>AN fittings on Summit... mine looks more like a 1/4NPT-4AN male-male. Maybe my numbers are just all messed up on that thing. I'm getting confused now .

chris712vt said:

The 1/8th refers to the NPT adapter though, which is closer to 1/4" hose size. Don't know why I put "1/8 AN" on that diagram no such thing. Someone chime in if I'm wrong but 1/8NPT, -4AN, and 1/4" barb are all about the same size hose fittings right?



EDIT: you know what... I'm looking at the picture of my oil fittings diagram, and a pictures of NPT>AN fittings on Summit... mine looks more like a 1/4NPT-4AN male-male. Maybe my numbers are just all messed up on that thing. I'm getting confused now .

Click to expand...

Lol, im confused just reading that. All I know is that the oil supply should be -4an. So at the "in" end for the oil feed should be, 3/8" male to -4an, and the "out" side (depending on your flange, mine is a 1/4") should be -4an to 1/4 female.

Either a -4 or -3 AN line should be good enough. Go with a -10 to the pan.

Well, its almost done. Tomorrow (friday) I will post pictures up before I get working on it agian. But the turbo is on and waiting to go. Just need to do a few more things, setup the new fuel system, valve cover, fcd, and set the sfmu, and I think it will be ready to start. Im going to check to make sure it idles then bring it to the shop so they can make the downpipe. Pics tomorrow.

More pics.
All thats left is running oil lines and hooking up gauges and a little work on I/C pipes.

if you really want to make it known what side of the intercooler piping is the hot and cold side, considering putting on a Red or off color (colour, I'm in canada now) coupler on the hot side of the intercooler.

And I couldn't tell if you ended up doing it, nor did I read if someone else suggested this, but consider cutting that black inner trim on the front bumber that covers part of the intercooler when the bumper is on. But it can probably wait until after the car is up and running.

I asked Hahns which side was which and they said the top one is the "outlet" and the bottom one is the "inlet".
I also ditched the whole bumper saftey support, so all that cover my intercooler is the bumper itself.

Edit: I think I realized you were talking about something different. No I havent cut that peiece off, I plan too, but my main concern is that I get the car running with no leaks, and that it builds boost okay. Then I will tinker with the minor things, such as this peiece of the bumper.

One other question, referring to the FCD. The Symtech lab instructions refer to black, yellow green and yellow black, wires. I have green black, yellow green, and yellow black wires.
Im planning on just referring to the green black one as the black one, because that is the only one that doesnt match up.
Maybe you guys can tell me something I dont know.

Okay guys well its altogether, and I start it up today.
Having some issues, and didnt get too much trouble shooting time, so just looking for some input from you guys.
Some things you should know about...
It will not idle by itself, if you take your foot off the gas it dies. That simple. It sounds like its missing, when you bring it up to higher rmps it stops, bring it down a little it does for a minute then stops agian, and so on. But you pretty much have to keep it above 1200rpms.

1. I have no exhaust . I want to get it to idle good before I take it to the exhaust shop.
2. That means no 02 sensors at all
3. Around 75psi of oil pressure
4. When its missing the fuel pressure is jumping from 25psi to 35psi like crazy. When it stops missing then it evens out at 30psi. This is on 315cc injectors and a sfmu. (The sfmu isnt set at all) Im still not totally sure how to, will look into it 2morrow, but it still should be able to idle at 30psi of pressure...(By the way, the sfmu has a screw in the boost port and a vac line hooked up to the barb fitting at the top, thats it)
5. The boost gauge isnt working... at all it doesnt move from 0psi..
6. We revved it up all the way to 4k I would say.. then it backfired. The wastegate never opened, or at least I never heard it nor saw it.
7. The bov never realsed any pressure, but the throttle plate never got closed all the way either, so that could be why for that.
8. The timing should be good. Set it up according to Chiltons and everything lined up.
9. The plugs look fine
And... hmm idk just look at the video and let me know what you guys think.
O I also unhooked the turbo from the intake and it still ran like that so it isnt really related to the turbo.
Throwing Code P0106 for map sensor/barometic sensor, and some other crap. Perhaps we screwed up with the FCD install?
Idk just looking for some input.
Thanks guys here it is, and thats my dad at the end, hes kind of excited . Apparently he likes how it sounds other then the missing. Like a "racecar" he said .

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZJJde66gv7o"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZJJde66gv7o" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

rstare said:

Okay guys well its altogether, and I start it up today.
Having some issues, and didnt get too much trouble shooting time, so just looking for some input from you guys.
Some things you should know about...
It will not idle by itself, if you take your foot off the gas it dies. That simple. It sounds like its missing, when you bring it up to higher rmps it stops, bring it down a little it does for a minute then stops agian, and so on. But you pretty much have to keep it above 1200rpms.

1. I have no exhaust . I want to get it to idle good before I take it to the exhaust shop.
2. That means no 02 sensors at all
3. Around 75psi of oil pressure
4. When its missing the fuel pressure is jumping from 25psi to 35psi like crazy. When it stops missing then it evens out at 30psi. This is on 315cc injectors and a sfmu. (The sfmu isnt set at all) Im still not totally sure how to, will look into it 2morrow, but it still should be able to idle at 30psi of pressure...(By the way, the sfmu has a screw in the boost port and a vac line hooked up to the barb fitting at the top, thats it)
5. The boost gauge isnt working... at all it doesnt move from 0psi..
6. We revved it up all the way to 4k I would say.. then it backfired. The wastegate never opened, or at least I never heard it nor saw it.
7. The bov never realsed any pressure, but the throttle plate never got closed all the way either, so that could be why for that.
8. The timing should be good. Set it up according to Chiltons and everything lined up.
9. The plugs look fine
And... hmm idk just look at the video and let me know what you guys think.
O I also unhooked the turbo from the intake and it still ran like that so it isnt really related to the turbo.
Throwing Code P0106 for map sensor/barometic sensor, and some other crap. Perhaps we screwed up with the FCD install?

Click to expand...

-Without your O2 sensor hooked up your going to have a littlle trouble keeping it alive without throwing codes.
-Boost gague will not show boost from just free revs... The BOV will not release pressure because there is no boost...
- You should get that downpipe together first.....
Maybe someone can chime in dealing with the fuel pressure and the S-FMU, because I have never used one. Congrats on getting her running!

I'd reckon from the misfiring that you're likely running rich, but without a wideband, you can only go by what others have done... And your nose.

Triple check for vacuum leaks.

Congrats on finally getting it going.