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Narrow Band O2???

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Draggin

10+ Year Contributor
30
0
Sep 23, 2008
Chesterfield, Virginia
I've looked at other posts for narrowband/wideband O2 sensors but never really got my answer. I am not to the tuning stages on my car... yet. I am a fan of the prosport amber/white guages and i am wondering if it is worth the cheap $46.99 for a narrowband just for monitoring the A/F ratio. I've read/heard the wideband is better however i have a tranny and clutch project going on now and don't have extra cash to throw a couple $100 on the wideband. Question is...... Should i go ahead and get the narrowband for the time being or wait til i can afford the wideband?
 
No dont waste your money on it. You really should be running a WB especially on a 420a motor. The JAW WBo2 is by far the cheapest on the market. At right over 100 with the sensor you have saved up almost half of it already by not buying the NB gauge. You can get the display for the JAW but it runs the price up a little more.
 
I've looked at other posts for narrowband/wideband O2 sensors but never really got my answer. I am not to the tuning stages on my car... yet. I am a fan of the prosport amber/white guages and i am wondering if it is worth the cheap $46.99 for a narrowband just for monitoring the A/F ratio. I've read/heard the wideband is better however i have a tranny and clutch project going on now and don't have extra cash to throw a couple $100 on the wideband. Question is...... Should i go ahead and get the narrowband for the time being or wait til i can afford the wideband?

(I assume you have a Cartech fmu, since you have Hahns kit) Theres not much "tuning" (if thats what you want to call it) with a fmu. You have your rising rate and thats pretty much how it is. So even if your afr is off, what are you going to do? I would like to see an afr chart on a Hanh kit though. I have only seen 1 afr chart with a 12:1 fmu, and it wasnt pretty. So you might not like what you find out, LOL. (On second thought I think the cartech has a bleed vavle allowing you to manipulate the rising rate a little)

I would say making this desicion has to do with your goals. If your going your not going to be making any other mods/raising boost then I would say your fine without either. But pretty much any upgrade from where you are is going to require you to watch your afr. Whether you get a sfmu, Msns, ect..

If I were you I would just save up and get the wideband O2. Be patient and look around theres bound to be someone selling them for cheap. I got a AEM UEGO O2 for $200 new.
 
I have the stage 2 kit, but it comes with a manual fuel pressure regulator. There is not much tuning past that, but i am pushing 75psi at idle, and it smells incredibly rich. But i am not going to turn down the fuel pressure just based on smell. I have heard terrible things about the JAW, especially the refresh rate. I will spend the money to get a very good wideband if need be, when i have the money. After I build a stronger bottom end I plan on bumping up the 16g to a 20g, so there will be more upgrades later on. Pockets are gettin kinda shallow right now though.
 
75psi at idle?! Thats... alot. 53psi is where you should be. You should maintain normal stock pressures until boost hits... Maybe Hahn has it set up different... But 75psi is pretty rediculous. What is the rising rate and how much boost are you pushing?
I assume its a 12:1 because that is the ratio everyone uses... everyone, and its the right one to use. But if your pushing 75psi at idle then 6psi of boost kicks in your at 147psi. Thats overrunning the walbro 255lph hp pump.
Thats a whole different discussiont though.
I would say save up for a wideband O2 you will be happy you did.
 
WOW!!!!! I knew I was running rich..... but I had no idea it was that bad. It's not what Hahn's setting is, i turned it up at some point to see if i would go faster, there wasn't a noticeable difference. I just forgot what the original setting was and didn't want to turn it down to make it lean so I just left it. I only push 8psi and the fuel pressure guage tops out when i do, so I try to stay out of boost. When the boost guage goes up the gas guage goes down fast. I'm definitely gonna save up for the wideband now.
 
Injectors aren't stock, not sure what they are. They came with the kit, but I am sure I am not supposed to be running 75psi at idle. The car is up on jackstands right now with no tranny or clutch, I think i'll invest in the wideband before I get it back on the road.
 
Well, finding out what size the injectors are is essential for telling your fuel pressure. I am willing to bet that there 270cc though. So your idle fuel pressure would be closer to mid 30psi. But if you get a wideband then that will be the best solution, and you can determine the perfect pressure needed.
 
well for more clarification on the wideband vs narrowband...

The narrowband is actually about 300rpm slower than what a true wideband would tell you. (ie. your tac says 6000rpm but the narrowband reading your getting is showing 5700rpm) The signal going to the stock ecu has already processed that signal and changed things accordingliy. (although probably not as much as it should since its not ready boost, so its probably advancing on its own but thats another story)

I know I said clarification, but I really hope I didn't confuse you more.
 
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