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Fuel cut?

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beastn629

Probationary Member
14
0
Aug 10, 2008
Indian Trail, North_Carolina
Ok. So im somewhat new to the whole dsm modding. I recently bought a 1990 laser. When i bought it the owner said that he was hitting some sort of cut off which varied depending on throttle position.

What ive got- a '90 laser thats mostly stock. i have put on an aftermarket boost gauge and boost controller and the car had a cannon muffler on it when i bought it.

What is happening- If the car is in nuetral and i give it full throttle (to the floor) then it will rev to about 5000 rpm's and then act like its hitting a rev limiter and just sputter. If i am in gear and am driving around it seems to do fine. But when i give it more than about 3/4 throttle it will go to about 3500 rpm's (about the time i get it boosting a little bit) and act like its hitting fuel cut. Its like hitting a brick wall, and then it does the sputtering again until i let off to about 3/4 throttle and then runs fine again. I am running about 15 psi right now but when i bought the car i was only runnig about 7 psi and still had the same problem.

What ive done- I have tested it for boost leaks as well as had the timing checked. made sure all sensors were plugged in and done all the "free mods" like removing lower honeycomb and all emmissions. I have a 255lph walbro fuel pump on my dining room table waiting to go in along with a rewire kit (i was told this may solve the problem) but im worried about that being too much for the stock fpr to handle.

Any ideas?
 
I do not whether the fuel pump will solve your problem, but I can tell you that I installed a walbro 255 on my GST with the re-wire, and no fuel pressure regulator, injectors, or anything yet, and there were no problems. Try putting the fuel pump in, and go from there.
 
get a wideband. It is possible that you are running to rich to burn and it is making it do that. It sounds like it because what happens when you try to rev at neutral.
 
definately sounds like fuel cut-little hint cause I know your new to the site...........the mods like for us to search before posting. :thumb: sounds like there is a boost leak hiding somewhere....stock boost or not with a big enough boost leak it can hit fuel cut....btw adding the pump and rewire will not remedy fuel cut...
 
Are your plugs and wires good? The reason I ask is that my 90 GSX did the same thing till I did a tune up on it.
 
Ok. Thanks guys. I did do a search on fuel cut and have been reading up on it for about two months and havent found anything that sounded like it really fit my problem(certain aspects of what people described didnt sound like ### i had goin on), so i def did my research before i posted. and yes i have already done most of the major tuning up (plugs, wires, oil, and so forth timing belt is brand new.) and what is a wideband? is that like the dsmlink? and thanks for the info about putting in the fuel pump. ill definately be doing that asap. I had been worried about doing it until now cause this car is my daily driver. i cant really afford to have it out of commision for more than a day.
 
Oh and yes my car is throwing a CEL but ive been having trouble finding anyone in the area to check it. As far as i kno there arent any dsm shops in my area.
 
ok. should i unhook both of them going into the fps or just one side?
 
Ok, Thanks alot. I really appreciate the help. Ill check those codes and do some more vacuum line removal tomorrow and let ya'll know what i come up with. Btw does the race setup on this site look pretty legit? i dont want to start pulling out any vacuum lines and then start having problems with my car. Taboo Speed Shop
 
Fuel cut has nothing to do with your fuel supply, it depends on how much air your ECU sees at the MAF. With a stock setup with no boost leaks you will run perfectly, unless your MAF is giving out bogus readings.

What PSI did you BLT to? How long did it take to drop to zero?

If you choose to install the 255lph pump you will indeed need a new FPR. Adjustable models are your best bet. You might not "feel" a difference, but you also don't go for a WOT tuning run and "feel" for knock. Also, just doing this will not do anything for your fuel cut.
 
Why would he need a new FPR? The ECU and stock FPR on a 1g can regulate the pressure of a 255. If he is running bigger injectors that changes everything because of duty cycle.

Injectors size does not have an effect on the FPR. Neither does the ECU. The FPR in a DSM comes after the fuel rail. It regulates the pressure that the fuel rail sees and allows the extra to cycle back into the tank. A stock FPR will be over-run. It will not allow as much fuel to return thereby causing excess pressure in the rail. This in turn causes excess pressure at the injector and more fuel being dumped into the cylinders.
 
i tested it to about 35 psi and it never dropped to zero. i let it sit for about a min after filling the system up with air and it dropped a little but not more than like five psi.

Would a gm maf with the translator be a good idea in my situation? because from what your saying the problem is most likely my maf and if im goin to replace it i should just go ahead and upgrade right?

Also what would be a good afpr thats fairly simple to install and adjust? and will i need a fuel pressure gauge to go with it?
 
Oh and by the way, I have completely removed all emissions according to the diagram from taboo speed shop. My CEL is still on and it didnt seem to make any difference. and if my computer is logging more than one code will i still be able to read them or will it just give me one of the codes?
 
According to your profile, you're still running stock IC pipes, so putting in a GM MAF would not be an easy or cheap upgrade. You'd probably be better of getting another 1g MAS or even a 2g which is considered an upgrade as either would probably be cheaper and easier.

A highly recommended AFPR is an Aeromotive. A few of the supporting vendors (Import Evolution, MAPerformance, ExtremePSI) have full kits you can buy that include everything you need. I would recommend getting a gauge as they're pretty cheap. You'd want to get one that's liquid filled.

A wideband is an o2 sensor that reads on a 0-5v scale instead of the 0-1v scale that a narrowband (or stock) o2 sensor reads. You usually replace your rear o2 sensor with the wideband or weld a new bung on for it. This will allow you to see an actual number for your air/fuel ratio, instead of just a light show as an air/fuel ratio gauge shows you. This will help you in WOT tuning and also verify that you are idling/cruising ratios are good as well.
 
With 14psi and no boost leaks you shouldn't be overrunning the stock 1g MAF. Your problem lies elsewhere. The next step I would suggest is to hook up a logger to get a better idea of what your ECU is seeing and doing. See what those CELs are. You will be able to pull all of the codes, if you have more than one.
 
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