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7bolt Motor Seized! @ Low RPM After Minor Work

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BlackdOutGST

BlackdOutGST

10+ Year Contributor
37
1
Jun 14, 2008
Dallas, Texas
Sorry for the lengthy thread, but just wanting everyones TWO CENTS on possible causes, before I pull the entire motor and rebuild.

Just finished replacing leaky head gasket, almost broke timing belt, and balance shaft belt yesterday. Started on the second crank. Was running better than before. I was out putting miles on the car to make sure it was going to hold up and work out any kinks. Well after about one hour of cruising around town and started to hear a low end chatter, sounded like a pulley that had come loose or something, it only did this between 1500 and 2500 rpms. I pulled over and popped hood, could not hear the chatter anymore. So I revved it up from under the hood just a little and the motor jerked and made a squeal like a belt hangin up on a pulley. Motor recovered and continued to run, did it again and same thing happened, but this time the motor died. Tried to restart and it would not turn over. Assuming the balance shaft belt came off and hung itself in the timing I towed it home, took crank pulley off and timing cover off, all the belts looked good, tried to spin the crank and it is locked up???? WTF Would make the crank (all-of-the-sudden) seize up? After the minor work I did to it.
 
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have you tried turning it with the plugs out? if the HG didnt seal its possible one of the cylinders filled up and cant move any further?
 
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^ concur pull the plugs see if it spins.

How much water was in the oil when you drained it? I've done quite a few HG changes on other vehicles, and within a couple hundred miles or less have had to replace the bearings. Now I just do it, because bearings aren't that expensive. Also after a HG change don't only change the oil buy 4 quarts of the cheapest oil you can get start it up on cheap oil and new filter let it warm up. Make sure everything is right timing and such on the cheap oil. Then change oil again. This way it gets most of the old antifreeze out.
 
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As i am sure you pulled all the belt off before you turn the crank. I had a ac compressor lock up on me and it made the motor seam like it locked up. If you can try turning the crank with the timing belt off the cams could be lock up.
 
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bojanglesracing said:
As i am sure you pulled all the belt off before you turn the crank. I had a ac compressor lock up on me and it made the motor seam like it locked up. If you can try turning the crank with the timing belt off the cams could be lock up.
Click to expand...

or if a balance shaft locked up, especially the one behind the oil pump, it would also cause it to seem like its locked up
 
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yeah, pull the plugs most def. and go from there, because like previously stated if there is too much fluid in the combustion chamber, the motor will act as it is locked up.
 
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If a head gasket blows and you blow steam out of the exhaust pipe for more than ten miles your engine is trashed. The cylinder that was boiling off the leaking coolant has been steam cleaned. The piston rings and bore will never seal properly again. Check the compression later after doing a HG on a steam cleaned engine and you'll see.
Crensinivon, do you pull the whole motor to change the bearings? Do you do the rod bearings too?
What you should really do is the only thing a real mechanic would do. A bare minimum: Hone cylinders,
replace pistons, rings, pins. Replace all bearings, water pump, oil pump. Stick with OEM and you can do it all for less than $500.
 
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Yeah. I've learned the hard way too many times. All bearings and rings. Its just good practice I hate doing a Head Gasket twice. Plus on a motor that takes an hour and a half to pull and 2 days to build why wouldn't you. It takes longer to get the parts. Just my .02. Also I do the flush regardless because I build with moly lube. The coolant also gets into the valve train and such so its just good practice.
 
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I used NPR rings and ACL bearings a cometic HG and ARP head studs plus OEM oil and water pumps and was still at about 500. Do some searching you'll find what you need. If you don't have a mic and such just take it to a local machine shop and have them mic everything for you.

I don't think you have to change the pistons though. Look for the one that leaked and have it magnafluxed, because the rings make the contact. The water vapor will actually make that cylinder run cooler but at a higher compression.

Remember its a DSM do it right the first time so you don't have to do it a 2nd or 3rd time.:cool:
 
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r1991_4g63t said:
have you tried turning it with the plugs out? if the HG didnt seal its possible one of the cylinders filled up and cant move any further?
Click to expand...

Pulled Plugs and still no spin. Plug on cyl. #3 had a trace of oil on the end of it. Humm.


bojanglesracing said:
As i am sure you pulled all the belt off before you turn the crank. I had a ac compressor lock up on me and it made the motor seam like it locked up. If you can try turning the crank with the timing belt off the cams could be lock up.
Click to expand...

Yep, a buddy of mine said the same thing, all belts have been removed. EXCEPT THE BALANCE SHAFT BELT!. I will check that asap. Someone told me to just cut it off. Pretty much useless? Other than vibration control.

Thanks very much for the help so far guys.
 
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my vote would be for a bent or broken valve or spun bearing, I'd pull the timing belt and try and see if you can move the crank if not then I'd pull the head and see how much damage was done.
 
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Yeah if you pulled the plugs and still no spin, then pull your timing belt. Then spin your crank, but be very careful because compression and valves feel about the same and you don't want to bend anymore valves than could already be bent. I would start by spinning your crank counterclockwise a little bit then clockwise and see if it feels like its hitting something.

I do believe however your going to find its time to pull the motor. :cry:
 
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I'm thinkin it's probably the best idea to just yank the motor now while I have the time. 175000 on the block and head. I would just feel better doing that than just fixing each little thing as it happens. Can someone point me toward a good walkthrough of a motor removal. I want to do as little work on getting the motor out so I can work on everything while the motor is out in the open.
 
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First drain all fluids. Pull radiator. Remove alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, starter, crank pulley, and water pump pulley. Unplug all electrical connections. Remove all hoses. Undo bolts between engine and transmission. Hook up engine hoist. Undo motor mounts. Pull motor. Some people say its easier to pull the transmission with it but I don't have a problem with pulling just the motor.
 
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Thanks, I started pulling everything out before I read this, but I am pretty much down to unbolting the block from the tranny. I see those 14mm bolts, I would like to leave the tranny in also, am I gonna have to hassle with a shaft or anything or will the motor simply lift right out after taking those bolts out?


thanks
 
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You'll have to raise the front of the motor first and pull it towards the radiator. Once you start you'll see how to do it. It's a very tight fit. make sure you pay attention to exactly how you get it out or you will cuss yourself. I can do it by myself now, but the first time or two it helps to have a friend to work the hoist.
 
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Peace a cake:beatentodeath: Besides having to take every-last-thing off the driver side of the motor, I don't think it was too bad pulling motor less the tranny. Got it out, spun bearing # 1. I am going to replace all rod bearing and main bearing, Should I get the wrist pins also?
 
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How bad was #1? Does the connecting rod have any visible damage?

How many miles are on the wrist pins? What are you plans for the motor?
You'll have to have a machine shop press them in.
 
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