Ok first of all. I have the exact same problem.

Second. I don't that that thread relates to you or me because the guy never mentioned the clutch.

Third. I also have no idea what's wrong. It's been suggested that's it the throw out bearing but mine is new... I got a motor and clutch installed a few months back.

I'm thinking Vac leak, or TOB but not sure.

Let me ask you this. If you're idling and you push the clutch in does the RPM drop?

If so, Search "clutch RPM" on the forums and start reading.

Let us know if you find the problem, and we'll do the same.

Good luck,

Tom

The only thing i can think of is fuel cut. That should only happen if you modify the engine with a stock ecu tho.

Trying raising your base idle a little bit. Your ecu might be correcting to 750 for you. And your BISS might actually be trying to idle your car at 600+. You shouldn't have to pull it out to far. just about a full turn should get you to where you want to be.

Also have you checked base timing?

I did read thru your mod list and it did not look like you had upgraded you injectors and went with dsmlink like you had said you wanted to on your wish list. but maybe you did "i know some times people forget to update there mod list's" I had a similar problem so i figured i would chime in on this one. might not help you but may help someone else.
when i first upgraded to my new injectors (880cc)my car would do the same thing from running pig rich. once i was able to get the injectors dialed in it completely stopped and have never had a problem with it again.. so i guess im saying that maybe your running rich....
I have also heard of people haveing this sort of problem due to there biss screw being out of adjustment.

GOOD LUCK

do you have the stock BOV setup? I know when I disconnected my recirculating line on my bov it did something very similar.

It could be a floater, that is a piece of debris in the gas tank or fuel line that is plugging up. I had/have this problem with my MG and the best thing to do is replace the fuel filter and clean the fuel tank. You could start with just the filter though and then visually inspect your fuel pump and the sock to find the debris.

On alot of DSM if you disconnected the recirulating line on the BOV it will do the same thing

I know its not the Throw out bearing because I checked that when I had the motor out and it was perfect.

I do have the stock BOV setup, during the motor swap, I disconnected my recirculating line. So this could be the problem. If it is, is there anyway to stop it besides reconnecting my recirculating line?

I did have an idle surge problem when the motor first started up. Thanks to the forum, I was able to identify that problem and fix it. It was the BISS screw being out of adjustment. I simply could've just overcompensated and turned it down too much, and now my ecu is trying to fight it. Thanks crensinivon and lazyazzdaddy for bringing this up.

Thanks for all your help guys, I'm gonna try adjusting the BISS screw tonight and if that doesn't do it maybe i'll mess with that recirculating line.

I have found another problem as well now. I had the boost set at 17lbs on the old motor and it held and ran beautifully. Now I cant go past 11lbs. If I do, it sputters and jerks at about 4500k and just freaks out til redline. Any ideas on what this could be? I have a feeling the two problems are intertwined.....

Oh and Tom, to answer question no it doesn't. If my car is idling I can push the clutch in and out fine without the rpm's dropping at all. Its only if I'm decelerating from above 2k and I push the clutch in that it dies.

As for your next question boost leak test time.

Yes you will need to reconnect you BOV tubing. Unless you like fouling plugs and such.

The two are completely different problems but are compounding.

First when you boost you are loosing air and running rich. With your BOV disconnected your letting more air escape running even richer. Do the above and let us know what you find.

DUDE recirculate!!!

dsm_Prince said:

DUDE recirculate!!!

Click to expand...

Yeah. Recirculate. Unless you have a Blow-Thru MAF setup you HAVE TO recirculate.

Any update on the BISS adjustment? I read somewhere you have to disconnect the IAC (ISC) when you do it or else the ECU will compensate with the IAC.
There's this write up on the VFAQ: 2G BISS Adjustment and 1G BISS Adjustment

Tom

Reconnected the BOV tubing and problem solved. Beautiful

So basically, If I ever wanted to vent the BOV to the atmosphere, or got an aftermarket. I would need to get.......what? An intake pipe, 2g maf and maf translator?

Just answered my own question. Went and searched venting BOV to the atmosphere and found the answer to that in about 3 seconds flat.