1gDSM4g63 said:

Yeah, they are much larger compared to the BEP .55 housing. I've already gotten the rebuild HX40 back you need spacer or whatnot for fitment.

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SPacer?? Idk about a space but I have seen both the bolt on and the .70ar it's not as big as you think. Here's mine mounted on my manifold

1gDSM4g63 said:

Does anyone know what the HX40 w/ T3 .70 housing is capable of vs. the spool? I'm in the process of switching from a BEP .55 to a T3 .70 and I don't want to over conceive the differences.

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Look back a few pages. The ones running this on the hx40 are getting spool about 3-400rpms later. Not bad at all considering full boost is still under 4500rpms .

dsm-onster said:

Look back a few pages. The ones running this on the hx40 are getting spool about 3-400rpms later. Not bad at all considering full boost is still under 4500rpms .

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Yeah before I will admit I was one of the bs callers on the spool for these turbos but that's because in the pictures I saw it was like a ugly girls myspace pictures...very missleading and hyped up due to good angles. In person it's only slightly bigger than the bolt on housing I had on my GT14. Spool around 4500 is very likely My biggest worries now are keeping my head on and keeping EGT's in check.

Slippi84 said:

SPacer?? Idk about a space but I have seen both the bolt on and the .70ar it's not as big as you think. Here's mine mounted on my manifold.

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I don't need spacer to mount the turbo on the manifold out of the car. What I meant it that I need spacer to mount the turbo in the engine bay with the manifold not hitting the engine. It maybe different in 420a but I do need spacer to jam it in my car.

dsm-onster said:

Look back a few pages. The ones running this on the hx40 are getting spool about 3-400rpms later. Not bad at all considering full boost is still under 4500rpms .

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I don't who's car you're basing the fact on but with the BEP .55 a/r housing I hit full spool at 4800 rpm @ 24 psi. with 9:1 and 264/272 so under 4500 rpm I find hard to believe.

Not to take you for granted, I'll take the 300-400 rpm later spool on the the T3 .70 even though it is hard to conceive such a fact comparing the BEP to the T3 housing.

1gDSM4g63 said:

I don't who's car you're basing the fact on but with the BEP .55 a/r housing I hit full spool at 4800 rpm @ 24 psi. with 9:1 and 264/272 so under 4500 rpm I find hard to believe.

Not to take you for granted, I'll take the 300-400 rpm later spool on the the T3 .70 even though it is hard to conceive such a fact comparing the BEP to the T3 housing.

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You must have a boost leak or something cause 4800 for the .55ar bolt on housing is def not good. That's more what people see from the .70ar if anything.

I don't need a spacer to mount it anywhere. How you see it is how it's going in with teh exception that the compressor outlet will be clocked straight down vs straight out like it is now. Mine did hit part of my water outlet pipebut that was easily fixed

1gDSM4g63 said:

I don't who's car you're basing the fact on but with the BEP .55 a/r housing I hit full spool at 4800 rpm @ 24 psi. with 9:1 and 264/272 so under 4500 rpm I find hard to believe.

Not to take you for granted, I'll take the 300-400 rpm later spool on the the T3 .70 even though it is hard to conceive such a fact comparing the BEP to the T3 housing.

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I posted a log a couple pages back showing full boost on an HX40 in the bolt-on housing at just over 4k, stock 6 bolt, 272s, JMF race SMIM, 2G MAF.

As for going from the bolt-on to the .70, I'd say the gap would be alot more than 3-400 rpms, given that my S256 bolt-on spooled 1000rpms sooner than my S258 in the .70 (assuming part of that is because of the 258's larger comp. wheel).

Steve93Talon said:

I posted a log a couple pages back showing full boost on an HX40 in the bolt-on housing at just over 4k, stock 6 bolt, 272s, JMF race SMIM, 2G MAF.

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Yeah, I saw the log and I pretty much had the same setup before going to T3 with 264/272. I'm pretty sure that the internals 9:1 wouldn't have a margin of spool 800 rpm. I'd have to go over everything to see what the factor could cause a later spool to the degree.

Steve93Talon said:

As for going from the bolt-on to the .70, I'd say the gap would be alot more than 3-400 rpms, given that my S256 bolt-on spooled 1000rpms sooner than my S258 in the .70 (assuming part of that is because of the 258's larger comp. wheel).

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Now that's believable. If it spooled 1000 rpm later in comparison to the BEP bolt-on at 5800 rpm I might consider switching to a bw s366 for better spool/power but all things considered Holset may have a better turbine which limited the difference between BEP and T3 housing. I'll just have to wait and see the spool rate and the power a T3 is capable of giving me.

FYI- The .70 a/r housings have made over 700whp so they will be more than able to handle an HX40.

1gDSM4g63 said:

I don't need spacer to mount the turbo on the manifold out of the car. What I meant it that I need spacer to mount the turbo in the engine bay with the manifold not hitting the engine. It maybe different in 420a but I do need spacer to jam it in my car.




I don't who's car you're basing the fact on but with the BEP .55 a/r housing I hit full spool at 4800 rpm @ 24 psi. with 9:1 and 264/272 so under 4500 rpm I find hard to believe.

Not to take you for granted, I'll take the 300-400 rpm later spool on the the T3 .70 even though it is hard to conceive such a fact comparing the BEP to the T3 housing.

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Well i have first hand experience with the .55 BOLT ON and the .70 T-3 and both of them spool before your 4800rpm. There must be some other issues with yours.
4400-4500 RPM for the bigger t-3 housing and thats with stock compression and 272 cams.!


I also trapped 102.24 MPH in the 1/8th with my awd so this turbo and housing makes some good power. Once i get a new trans then i hope to up the boost and make some 130mph runs on the STOCK motor.

GORBS88 said:

Well i have first hand experience with the .55 BOLT ON and the .70 T-3 and both of them spool before your 4800rpm. There must be some other issues with yours.

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Is good to hear what I'll be expecting although I switch the 280s because I'm expecting the T3 to do the work in high powerbands. Other than that, I had a lot of situation with the turbo. Some of the wings on the blade were bent and I just decide to rebuild the turbo along with switching the house from BEP to T3.

I certain hope that the rebuild and upgrade is worth the money and is capable of putting out significantly more power than the BEP housing which is rated 650whp.

1gDSM4g63 said:

I certain hope that the rebuild and upgrade is worth the money and is capable of putting out significantly more power than the BEP housing which is rated 650whp.

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I personally wouldn't say "X" turbine housing is good for "Y" flow or power. The .63 a/r turbine housing used for the t3 stage3 and 5 wheels to flow to their maximum is the same one found on a stock t3 stage 1 ford turbo, which can barely get out of it's way to achieve 280 horsepower. Upgrading to a .82 a/r turbine helps flow significantly with that stock t3. So you could say that the t3 .63 a/r turbine housing is good for only 300whp? Hardly.

Regardless, the small bep housing has allowed 650whp with an hx40 and 6blade compressor. The larger housing will allow more. And also alter the power band. Andy4g63 has noted a 400rpm difference when switching from the small bep housing to the large.

I'm excited to see you'll be running this turbo with 280s and a JMF manifold like Andy. He has a setup similar to yours. You should see very good numbers to a high redline with the large housing.

Before and after, what a little sandblasting can do.






Anyone have recommendations on what to use for polishing?

Would TurtleWax Polishing Compound or Rubbing Compound work?

Does anyone know if that golden ring on the inside of the inlet is something you can take out or if it's suposed to stay in there? Like I see some that look like normal anti surge covers and some like mine have the golden metal part that funnels the air to the blades.


Edit: Nvm I took it out man this thing looks even better with it off what baut : )

You'll hear the whistle much more pronounced with it off. Beautiful noise! My car sounds like a mack truck boosting when I swap on my housin with the MWE groove cut into it, but with that higher 4 cylinder exhaust note.

. . . Which remindes me of another thing I've noticed, the big h1c (from the intercooled 1991-1993 cummins pickup) comes with the webbing for the MWE groove but no actual groove cut in. I had a shop cut in the groove on another housing from a big h1c. I swapped it on and it spool noticable slower, about 300rpms. I mmediately swapped back to the original webbing, but no groove, housing and picked up the spool speed back to where it was before.

Now, the WH1C comes stock with the map width enhancement groove, but the same size compressor. And the early hx35 turbos (before 1998) have that same compressor fin shape and diameters. Runnign no MWE, I see ZERO surge with 272 like cams and measly evo3 exhaust manifold and stock 1g intake manifold and head on a 2.0 engine with a fast spool of 20+ psi by 3500rpms. MWE doesn't do much for peak flow at all, it just moves the surge line farther to the left. So I wonder if closing off the surge ports of an hx35 wil increase spool speed. This is just based on my own observation. I don't know of any variables, since the exact same setup was used between the two, and the pull was done on the same stretch at the same time of the day. The engine sounds be-e-a-youtiful!!! with the MWE ported housing on though.

So your saying that even though it will prevent surge better and make it sound sweet its' really not only overkill but a hadicap? Hmm well I might try it with and without this piece to see if I notice the difference. I'm gonna be trying something that I haven't messed with before on this car and I don't think I'll have to worry about spool.

That ring is just a silencer to quite down the noise. I like to hear the turbo soo.... take it out!!

IPT said:

That ring is just a silencer to quite down the noise. I like to hear the turbo soo.... take it out!!

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It's already out and will stay out.

It's soo loud without the ring. About 3200 rpms it starts to sound like your getting passed by a 747.

Slippi84 said:

So your saying that even though it will prevent surge better and make it sound sweet its' really not only overkill but a hadicap? Hmm well I might try it with and without this piece to see if I notice the difference. I'm gonna be trying something that I haven't messed with before on this car and I don't think I'll have to worry about spool.

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Well, keeping the little ring cover on won't do anything to negate what the MWE groove provides good or bad. The cover just nulls the beautiful noise. I don't know what the MWE there or not will do with YOU setup. You don't have an option . Just enjoy it. They work just fine with it. And there is ZERO chance of surge with it. So a long life of whistle and power is in your future .

Well the project is coming along. Still have a ton to do though. Engines in, working on rewiring the harness, redoing the interior and a bunch of other cosmetic stuff.
I ended up having to make a manifold adapter to fit the HE351VE in the car and to mount the external gate to prevent any overspeeding issues. Its got a non standard flange so no off the shelf manifold would work with it. Unfortunately I don't have the resources to custom make a manifold, or the money to have one made. Especially not knowing how well this will work out.

Here are some pics of the VGT hotside compared to the HX40 BEP that I was using before.





Test fitting the turbo with the old motor. There isn't much space with the huge hotside. Compressor will be clocked with the outlet up to allow the IC pipe to pass underneath. I wish the compressor housing had a normal outlet rather than facing the passenger side.


Compared to the 14b


Ugly as hell adapter, but should function ok and not flow too horribly.



Solid motormount I made using plastic that was identified as "nylotron" not sure if thats the real name but its tough as hell. Hopefully keep the turbo from meeting the radiator and wheelhop prevention.

I decided to join the bandwagon. Im going to run a hx35 with the bep housing. If any one sees ant good deals on a turbo, that your not goin to get, send me a pm!

You should really consider a 1/2 size radiator for that setup.

JWoodley said:

You should really consider a 1/2 size radiator for that setup.

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That is what I was originally thinking about doing. I didn't think I could fit it in there without one until I started mocking stuff up. Its not quite as close as it looks because the radiator is tipped back toward the motor a little bit since the upper brackets are off. I'm going to use the stock one until I prove that this is going to work, then we'll see where I go from there.

These turbos have started coming up on ebay so cheap. There are a lot of them for sale because the dodge dealers have started replacing them for carbon buildup issues. Gasoline and what I plan on E85 shouldn't have nearly the problem with that compared to a diesel engine. Its easy to get one in great shape under $250 now because no one wants to try doing anything with them. I picked up this one before they were common on there for 400 shipped and its brand new never been mounted on anything.

I just have to get the control situation figured out. Going to try messing with some wastegate actuators first and see how that works then go from there.

Great to see you taking on a variable geometry housing. Looks like you grabbed it by the face! The welds don't need to look pretty, so long as they are solid, no loose slag, and they seal, and they don't muff up flow.

I forget. How does the VGT control mechanism work? Is it electric motor driven?

And welcome aboard the Holset Boat, OneLove.

dsm-onster said:

Great to see you taking on a variable geometry housing. Looks like you grabbed it by the face! The welds don't need to look pretty, so long as they are solid, no loose slag, and they seal, and they don't muff up flow.

I forget. How does the VGT control mechanism work? Is it electric motor driven?

And welcome aboard the Holset Boat, OneLove.

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Thanks alot.

The one that is used on the stock application is. I didn't have any information on how to drive the actuator. It also disappeared when I moved a couple months ago. Haven't been able to locate it since. I will be trying a wastegate actuator on it as it has an external arm on it that I can attach to. I'll see how that works first and then go from there.