Alright, here's the situation. I bought a Visteon Radiator with a single SPAL fan. I want the fan to be on all the time, and I want to use the factory harness.

If this isn't possible to do through the factory harness, which wires do I connect to ensure the fan will turn on when I reach operating temperatures. If anyone has a better suggestion to help keep the temperatures down, please let me know.

I believe I am suppose to use the passenger's side harness, the four wires are as follows:

black -
blue with black stripe -
blue +
blue with white stripe +

talonation777 said:

Alright, here's the situation. I bought a Visteon Radiator with a single SPAL fan. I want the fan to be on at the time, and I want to use the factory harness.

If this isn't possible to do through the factory harness, which wires to I connect to ensure the fan with turn on when I reach operating temperatures. If anyone has a better suggestion to help keep the temperatures down, please let me know.

I believe I am suppose to use the passenger's side harness, the four wires are as follows:

black -
blue with black stripe -
blue +
blue with white stripe +

Click to expand...

Dude that title post makes it seem like you are in dire need or very frusterated. It is very, very simple. If you installed a turbo kit, this should be a breeze.

If you mean, 'isn't possible tto do through the factory harness', I'm assuming you mean they clip together. They should, and if they don't or didn't, cut the harnesses off and solder up the wires. It's 2 basic wires of what you previously stated. Black=negative. Blue/Red usually means positive.

Have you tried hooking it up yet?

Blitzeclips said:

Dude that title post makes it seem like you are in dire need or very frusterated. It is very, very simple. If you installed a turbo kit, this should be a breeze.

If you mean, 'isn't possible tto do through the factory harness', I'm assuming you mean they clip together. They should, and if they don't or didn't, cut the harnesses off and solder up the wires. It's 2 basic wires of what you previously stated. Black=negative. Blue/Red usually means positive.

Have you tried hooking it up yet?

Click to expand...

He said the passenger side, that harness has 4 wires. I thought that was the AC fan harness. Blitzs correct if you are referring to the driver's side harness... that only has 2/3 wires.

talonation777 said:

Alright, here's the situation. I bought a Visteon Radiator with a single SPAL fan. I want the fan to be on at the time, and I want to use the factory harness.

If this isn't possible to do through the factory harness, which wires to I connect to ensure the fan with turn on when I reach operating temperatures. If anyone has a better suggestion to help keep the temperatures down, please let me know.

I believe I am suppose to use the passenger's side harness, the four wires are as follows:

black -
blue with black stripe -
blue +
blue with white stripe +

Click to expand...

Why would you need your fan on all the time? If you have a poper cooling system it doesn't matter what you throw at your engine. Even if you were close to 800HP you'd just need a methanol injection kit. You don't need your fan on all the time.

*proper cooling system*

Also if you are having cooling issues, you might want to check the whole system and maybe check your head gasket or your head for warpage. The only thing that would raise your temps that high is a weak link in you Cooling sys. or head problems. Even a stock cooling system will handle a turbo setup so long as your water pump is in good condition.

LD25Delta9 said:

Also if you are having cooling issues, you might want to check the whole system and maybe check your head gasket or your head for warpage. The only thing that would raise your temps that high is a weak link in you Cooling sys. or head problems. Even a stock cooling system will handle a turbo setup so long as your water pump is in good condition.

Click to expand...

Are you taking a look at the OP's question? He bought a new radiator and it came with the fan. He wants to know how to hook up the fan, not how to run a proper cooling system...

TalonESIT said:

Are you taking a look at the OP's question? He bought a new radiator and it came with the fan. He wants to know how to hook up the fan, not how to run a proper cooling system...

Click to expand...

Yeah, I sure did. He wants it to run all the time. That's an easy way to fry a fan in no time. I'm trying to save him that headache. I know if I just spent a bunch of money on a visteon w/fan, I wouldn't want to spend money on another in the near future. Especially if it was due to bad advice from the internet. If you can cover your back from the get go, wouldn't you want to? Wouldn't it be better to let you know whats gonna happen before you shoot yourself in the foot? Not to mention that his grammer and spelling were questionable.

LD25Delta9 said:

Yeah, I sure did. He wants it to run all the time. That's an easy way to fry a fan in no time. I'm trying to save him that headache. I know if I just spent a bunch of money on a visteon w/fan, I wouldn't want to spend money on another in the near future. Especially if it was due to bad advice from the internet. If you can cover your back from the get go, wouldn't you want to? Wouldn't it be better to let you know whats gonna happen before you shoot yourself in the foot? Not to mention that his grammer and spelling were questionable.

Click to expand...

I don't know we went from a fan wire up to cooling system. You need to realize that the fan won't be on the entire time if he hooks it up the way I stated earlier. You also need to realize the fan kicks on after a certain run/heat time, so don't assume they're on all the time. On top of that, the OP requested for how to hook it up so it will run properly under operating temperatures, he didn't ask how to have it run ALL THE TIME under extreme temerature. Don't twist it up.

As for proper cooling up to 800HP, you obviously aren't boost. 420a's are plauged with alot of underhood heat, any extra cooling you can get is worth it.

The passenger side is the A/C, driver's side is the radiator. If you are hooking up both, use the same method as I stated. I reccommend push style.

Don't be so critical. You've got some misinformation going on yourself there, champ.

Here's how I wired mine:



The stock fans have two windings: one for low speed and one for high speed. Most all aftermarket fans have just one speed. The configuration I used makes sure the aftermarket fans turn on whether the ECU is trying to trigger the high speed or the low speed.

By the way, for those of you who don't know the FSM's wiring codes, L means blue, B means black, and W means white. An L-B wire is a blue wire with a black stripe.

I apologize for the spelling errors, I was in a rush when I wrote the original post in hopes of getting a quick response, and ultimately finishing the job quickly. Thanks for the suggestions.

Blitzeclips said:

I don't know we went from a fan wire up to cooling system. You need to realize that the fan won't be on the entire time if he hooks it up the way I stated earlier. You also need to realize the fan kicks on after a certain run/heat time, so don't assume they're on all the time. On top of that, the OP requested for how to hook it up so it will run properly under operating temperatures, he didn't ask how to have it run ALL THE TIME under extreme temerature. Don't twist it up.

As for proper cooling up to 800HP, you obviously aren't boost. 420a's are plauged with alot of underhood heat, any extra cooling you can get is worth it.

The passenger side is the A/C, driver's side is the radiator. If you are hooking up both, use the same method as I stated. I reccommend push style.

Don't be so critical. You've got some misinformation going on yourself there, champ.

Click to expand...

Actually he does state that he wants to know how to make the fan "come on at the time" I thik he meant to say all the time so that's where he got tha from. His next sentence confimsthat because he says If he can't do that THEN he wants to know how to ake it come on when the car comes up to temp. Anyway I wonder this too because both harness's on the driver and passenger side have 4 wires and the spal van that the visteon comes with is a two wire get up. Blue and black and the blue is marked possitive. Now Easy way I can hook up the blue wire to the ignition source that goes to my boost guage(It's the tinted kind with light) and hook the ground up to a sepreate ground on the car and be done with it but like it was stated that's not good for the fan. So the big question is which side harnss to do you hack and which wires do you use when you do hack.

Slippi84 said:

Actually he does state that he wants to know how to make the fan "come on at the time" I thik he meant to say all the time so that's where he got tha from. His next sentence confimsthat because he says If he can't do that THEN he wants to know how to ake it come on when the car comes up to temp. Anyway I wonder this too because both harness's on the driver and passenger side have 4 wires and the spal van that the visteon comes with is a two wire get up. Blue and black and the blue is marked possitive. Now Easy way I can hook up the blue wire to the ignition source that goes to my boost guage(It's the tinted kind with light) and hook the ground up to a sepreate ground on the car and be done with it but like it was stated that's not good for the fan. So the big question is which side harnss to do you hack and which wires do you use when you do hack.

Click to expand...

OK, like I said earlier, and I'm not repeating this again, is that you can't hook it up to the factory harness and have it on all the time, therefore you would need to wire it for operating temperature. Refernce to paragraph two of the original post. Rather then LD criticizing him about why NOT to hook it up to be on all the time(something that can't even be done- so why talk down about it?), I was pointing out that it isn't possible to hook it up all the time with the factory harness, therefore it would activate when the operating temperature is reached. No need to criticize someone over something that isn't possible with the factory harness; but to help constructively and adress the next issue stated in paragraph three. So yes, you are correct, he did ask for all the time with the factory harness, but as I stated it wouldn't be possible and you'd need to wire it differently. You just reiterated what we already clarified and moved on from.

Slippi: So the big question is which side harnss to do you hack and which wires do you use when you do hack The driver's side. I just literally cut off the harness (had a universal push style fan) and re-soldered the black and blue wires together. The harness doesn't control when the fan is on, the ECU does. So you don't even need a direct clip on.

Any other questions we haven't covered?

Oh and Paul thanks for that configuration, it's clear cut, and I'm sure it's more helpful than any of our posts. .

Blitzeclips said:

OK, like I said earlier, and I'm not repeating this again, is that you can't hook it up to the factory harness and have it on all the time, therefore you would need to wire it for operating temperature. Refernce to paragraph two of the original post. Rather then LD criticizing him about why NOT to hook it up to be on all the time(something that can't even be done- so why talk down about it?), I was pointing out that it isn't possible to hook it up all the time with the factory harness, therefore it would activate when the operating temperature is reached. No need to criticize someone over something that isn't possible with the factory harness; but to help constructively and adress the next issue stated in paragraph three. So yes, you are correct, he did ask for all the time with the factory harness, but as I stated it wouldn't be possible and you'd need to wire it differently. You just reiterated what we already clarified and moved on from.

Slippi: So the big question is which side harnss to do you hack and which wires do you use when you do hack The driver's side. I just literally cut off the harness (had a universal push style fan) and re-soldered the black and blue wires together. The harness doesn't control when the fan is on, the ECU does. So you don't even need a direct clip on.

Any other questions we haven't covered?

Oh and Paul thanks for that configuration, it's clear cut, and I'm sure it's more helpful than any of our posts. .

Click to expand...

I wasn't really concerned about the debate about how to hook it up al the time to be honest I just wanted to know which side pigtail to cut and T into. The problem is there are 4 wires and you just say black and blue. There is a blue/white, black/white and two black wires on the driver side harness. Which wires did you hook up to the blue ad black wire?

Slippi84 said:

I wasn't really concerned about the debate about how to hook it up al the time to be honest I just wanted to know which side pigtail to cut and T into. The problem is there are 4 wires and you just say black and blue. There is a blue/white, black/white and two black wires on the driver side harness. Which wires did you hook up to the blue ad black wire?

Click to expand...

Let's see, if there are black/white, then blue/white, which two do you think I'm referring to??? They both have white, so why would that need to be clarified if the difference between the two are blue vs. black wires?

Either way, I don't recall white wires on the driver's side. Yes, I did say there is just black and blue and I don't know what 4 wires you are referring to with that problem.

Here are pics. Notice both sides, one side is from the factory wires (blue and black) and one goes to my fan(blue and black also). No white wires involved. Just cut, solder, shrink wrap, and tuck.





Yeah I know the soldering isn't so great but it was done in a frantic rush as my car was overheating in an empty lot. Haha. Hope this clarifys the driver's side atleast..

Not to sound like smart ass, but...

Slippi84 said:

Not to sound like smart ass, but...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

Very interesting... cause mine looks like blitz's. I know for that the stock fan is a multi speed fan so there should only be one ground and the rest you can solder together as a single positive... But I'm not sure which one that ground is.

Slippi84 said:

Not to sound like smart ass, but...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

Same as mine.... Follow VelocitàPaola's post thats exactly what i did with my 2 knock off ebay slim fans and it works just fine

Two things which fan was on the driver side the condenser fan? EVen with that said I'm not the best at reading wiring diagrams how do you distinguish between the two black wires?

Slippi84 said:

which fan was on the driver side the condenser fan?

Click to expand...

Not sure i understand what your asking...?

Slippi84 said:

EVen with that said I'm not the best at reading wiring diagrams how do you distinguish between the two black wires?

Click to expand...

You don't have to, you just solder the two neg's together then to the neg wire on the fan and solder the two positive wires together then to the positive wire on the fan. Do that on both sides and your done.

Car_guy_09 said:

Not sure i understand what your asking...?



You don't have to, you just solder the two neg's together then to the neg wire on the fan and solder the two positive wires together then to the positive wire on the fan. Do that on both sides and your done.

Click to expand...

Git ya well let me give it a shot. So in a nut shell connect both negs and hook them up to the black wire and hook both the other wires up and hook it to the blue wire.

Slippi84 said:

Git ya well let me give it a shot. So in a nut shell connect both negs and hook them up to the black wire and hook both the other wires up and hook it to the blue wire.

Click to expand...

Sounds like ya got it!

But just to simplify things,

Drivers side,


Connect White wire with blue stripe, and White wire with black stripe, to blue wire on fan, Then connect the two black wires to the black wire on the fan.

Pass. side,

Connect blue wire, and blue wire with white stripe, to blue wire on fan, Then connect black wire, and blue wire with black stripe, to black wire on fan. There ya go

Hey, just an update. I hooked my new fan to the driver's side harness.

My fan came with two wires, a blue wire, and a black wire.

The factory harness on my 97 Talon N/T has four wires, blue with white stripe, black with white stripe, and two black wires.

I hooked the fan up as mentioned above:
*DRIVERS SIDE..

BLUE (from SPAL fan) --> blue with white stripe, and black with white stripe (from factory harness)
BLACK (from SPAL fan) --> two black wires (from factory harness)

I let the car run and warm up to operating temperature, but the fan didn't turn on. The car warmed up to 190-200 degrees and it didn't turn on.

I checked my fuse box just in case I may have blown a fuse or two along the way. Everything was fine and I noticed there are five relays (refer to picture):

1)Rad Fan (HI)
2)Rad Fan (HI)
3)Rad Fan (LO)
4)Condenser Fan (HI)
5)Condenser Fan (LO)

I have one relay missing, but it was never there to begin with so I don't think this is the problem.

I also noticed that the harness from a 95-96 only has two wires on the driver's side, while the 97-98/99 have four wires.

If anyone can help me troubleshoot this problem so I can get my fan going, that would be great.

Well, I'm still stuck, but I've made some revelations after doing an abundance of reading. I don't know if this will contribute to the problem I'm having in regards to my fan not turning on at operating temperatures, but I think its worth a shot.

I have an aftermarket temperature gauge, I use this instead of my factory temp gauge. I unplugged the factory temp gauge sender from the thermostat housing and replaced it with a different one so I could use my aftermarket gauge. I got to thinking...since the ECU controls when the fan turns on, is it possible that removing the factory temp sensor has caused the ECU not to recognize that the car is at operating temperatures, thus not tripping the relay for the fan to turn on.

I'm leaning towards this because my stock set up was two fans, and now I only have a single SPAL fan.

I'm going to try out my theory tomorrow because it's too dark now, but if someone will chime in and let me know if I'm on the right path, or if I'm wasting my time, that would help.

talonation777 said:

Well, I'm still stuck, but I've made some revelations after doing an abundance of reading. I don't know if this will contribute to the problem I'm having in regards to my fan not turning on at operating temperatures, but I think its worth a shot.

I have an aftermarket temperature gauge, I use this instead of my factory temp gauge. I unplugged the factory temp gauge sender from the thermostat housing and replaced it with a different one so I could use my aftermarket gauge. I got to thinking...since the ECU controls when the fan turns on, is it possible that removing the factory temp sensor has caused the ECU not to recognize that the car is at operating temperatures, thus not tripping the relay for the fan to turn on.

I'm leaning towards this because my stock set up was two fans, and now I only have a single SPAL fan.

I'm going to try out my theory tomorrow because it's too dark now, but if someone will chime in and let me know if I'm on the right path, or if I'm wasting my time, that would help.

Click to expand...

Makes sense.... Good luck!