0W is a flushing oil, i would never run with it

check out this link, lots of info about oil
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

EagleTSIawd said:

0W is a flushing oil, i would never run with it

check out this link, lots of info about oil
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

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from the website this person put on here

These are special compound oils that are very, very thin. They almost have the consistency of tap water when cold as well as hot. Typically they are 0W/20 oils. Don't ever drive with these oils in the engine - it won't last. (Caveat : some hybrid vehicles now require 0W20, so if you're a hybrid driver, check your owner's manual). Their purpose is for cleaning out all the gunk which builds up inside an engine. Note that Mobil1 0W40 is okay, because the '40' denotes that it's actually thick enough at temperature to work. 0W20 just doesn't get that viscous! To use them, drain your engine of all it's oil, but leave the old oil filter in place. Next fill it up with flushing oil and run it at a fast idle for about 20 minutes. Finally, drain all this off (and marvel at the crap that comes out with it), replace the oil filter, refill with a good synthetic oil and voila! Clean engine.
Of course, like most things nowadays, there's a condition attached when using flushing oils. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 280,000km that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring(now really clean)contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings.

I run 20-50... These 4G's are not Hondas

Mobil 1 0W is required in many Mercedes engines. However, it's probably too thin to keep a DSM motor happy.
Ask here:
Bob Is The Oil Guy

20-50? Holy crap.

Bob Is The Oil Guy has a big forum. From this post comes this excerpt about German Castrol (GC) 0w-30:


Along with Mobil 1, apparently it's also the only true synthetic in this group. I've seen it periodically at my local WalMart, and the next time I do, I'm picking up a number of changes worth...

I wouldn't run 0w-10 in a street car. I do have a few customers that run it in drag cars. They even change it at operating temp. But these are also the same guys that don't run a second compression ring on the piston to further reduce friction.

In short; zero weight has it's purpose and it's not for your average street DSM.

Jon Lane said:

Bob Is The Oil Guy has a big forum. From this post comes this excerpt about German Castrol (GC) 0w-30:

Is it "thin"? Come on, 0w-30 has to be watery.
NO! Please don't completely buy into that myth.

* At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means GC will still flow at cold temps. (Which is a good thing!)
* At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
GC is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around.

I don't want to go into too much detail about this here. It can be very confusing.
My point is, GC is not "thin" in most temperatures that we use our cars in.​

Along with Mobil 1, apparently it's also the only true synthetic in this group. I've seen it periodically at my local WalMart, and the next time I do, I'm picking up a number of changes worth...

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humm i want to use it but i dont want to use it now

why would you even think about doing this when are cars produce very little oil pressure at idle????

dnhieu said:

why would you even think about doing this when are cars produce very little oil pressure at idle????

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Which happens at warm idle, and at warm idle, the Castrol 0w-30 stuff I linked to is more viscous than than the usual 10w-30. At cold idle, where the 4G63 makes tens of pounds of pressure (and eliminated balance shaft motors more) the 0w is handy, assuming average outside temps, that is.

From this thread:

* 5w-30 can be thicker than 10w-30.
* 0w-30 can be thicker than 5w-30.
* Unless you have tools to measure viscosity, you need to at least:
o Specify a temperature.
o Check the manufacturer's datasheet.
* The cold viscosity tells you NOTHING about the hot viscosity.​

I have been running Mobil 1 0w40 for as long as I can remember. at least 6 years most likely longer. And I am on the same jdm motor that I swapped in right after I bought the car. I have thousands of really, really hard miles on it. I have never blown a turbo. I don't turbo time and I have a ebay solid aluminum under-drive pulley. Also I don't have a oil cooler at all; not the water to oil or the air-oil. I have changed cams 3 or 4 times and have seen no wear on the cams or cam journal anyway.

turbo addict said:

I have been running Mobil 1 0w40 for as long as I can remember. at least 6 years most likely longer. And I am on the same jdm motor that I swapped in right after I bought the car. I have thousands of really, really hard miles on it. I have never blown a turbo. I don't turbo time and I have a ebay solid aluminum under-drive pulley. Also I don't have a oil cooler at all; not the water to oil or the air-oil. I have changed cams 3 or 4 times and have seen no wear on the cams or cam journal anyway.

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wow that sweet to know. so there is people on here running it. do you think if im already running racing synthetic oil and there are no leaks is there a good chance i wont have any when i run 0W-30???

Let's try, yet again, to explain something to the Great Unwashed.

0W-30 is not "zero" weight. It's 30 weight. The "0W" refers to its internal resistance to shear in winter conditions. It means it has the same characteristics to flow resistance at low temperature as an oil of that weight would have.

"The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to 'real' viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at various low temperatures depending on weight, and is therefore suitable for Winter use. 5W is tested at -25C, 10W at -20C, 15W at -15C, and 20W at -10C."

Also, "weight" has nothing to do with film strength.

Learn to ignore the first number. The second is more important.

You guys are on the web. Learn to use it.