NewTurboTuner said:

The FP3065 gets me close, but not quite there on pump 92. I've got choices to make, since its about to crap out on me.

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Keep me updated on this. I may go that route if I can get it for a descent price or anything that you have with it, like the O2 housing and such or the whole setup.

Jst4Cyl said:

Keep me updated on this. I may go that route if I can get it for a descent price or anything that you have with it, like the O2 housing and such or the whole setup.

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You've been updated

FP3s are going in my car this weekend in place of the 1xs. Very happy.

layzie12g said:

FP3s are going in my car this weekend in place of the 1xs. Very happy.

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Unless you worked a killer deal for those, you might want to consider these....
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That would be good with my ported SB mani ((we can switch mani's now. I'll run your warped mani with a block-off plate until my HKS goes on))

Plus installing the AFPR.

Upgrading from fp1x to fp3 might give you 25-30whp max, but you'll still have tuning issues which dosent help get max power from what you already have.

If you fix your fuel pressure problems, MAF problems, and Exhaust/o2 reading problems, then you could probably get at least 25-30whp just from fixing those problems and getting a good tune.

The cost for the cams..... is about the same price as all of those other items together.

NewTurboTuner said:

Unless you worked a killer deal for those, you might want to consider these....
Message - DSM Classifieds

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That would be good with my ported SB mani ((we can switch mani's now. I'll run your warped mani with a block-off plate until my HKS goes on))

Plus installing the AFPR.

Upgrading from fp1x to fp3 might give you 25-30whp max, but you'll still have tuning issues which dosent help get max power from what you already have.

If you fix your fuel pressure problems, MAF problems, and Exhaust/o2 reading problems, then you could probably get at least 25-30whp just from fixing those problems and getting a good tune.

The cost for the cams..... is about the same price as all of those other items together.

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Sounds like he already has them. I second the fixing the problems first but those cams are def a better choice. Do both

NewTurboTuner said:

Unless you worked a killer deal for those, you might want to consider these....
Message - DSM Classifieds

Blank
That would be good with my ported SB mani ((we can switch mani's now. I'll run your warped mani with a block-off plate until my HKS goes on))

Plus installing the AFPR.

Upgrading from fp1x to fp3 might give you 25-30whp max, but you'll still have tuning issues which dosent help get max power from what you already have.

If you fix your fuel pressure problems, MAF problems, and Exhaust/o2 reading problems, then you could probably get at least 25-30whp just from fixing those problems and getting a good tune.

The cost for the cams..... is about the same price as all of those other items together.

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The only difference between fp3 cams and fp2x cams is that the exhaust cam is retarded about 3 crank degrees. And there is a HUGE difference between fp2x cams and the fp1x cams he currently has.

AS far as a 255 over running a stock FPR, yes it may be in "over run" meaning the pressure is higher than it should be and there's nothing that can be done. But i will say this YOU CAN TUNE AROUND IT! I did for years. When i popped my motor i had to sell some things to fund the rebuild and my AFPR and rail were a couple of them, so i ran a stock FPR for the last 5 years with no issues what so ever. Of course i'm on a full stnad alone, but any good tuning device should be able to lower pulse width enough that the tune wil be right.

Where your real problem comes in is under higher boosts where the fule pressure would be getting high normally, with a stock FPR it's getting REALLY HIGH and you start to run the danger of the injectors not opening right because of the pressure.

I hear so much stuff on forums about"you can't do this" "you can't do that" well most of it can be done, but may have some drawbacks, it's not like the car will jsut shut off and refuse to run or can't be tuned.. Hell everyone says 720's are too small for e85, well one person on here has made 445 horses on 750's and my 255 pump gave up the ghost on flow before my 720's did on my tune on E85, and that was at 24psi on a t3/t4 57 trim garrett turbo, so it flows decent air. Sorry to vent about "it can't be done" posts i see so much on here, but i had to

Turboglenn, I agree completely. With Dsmlink the way to tune around it is using the lower airflow sliders for the idle and cruise. You have to tune them anyway. Or this formula helps:

FlowFactor = sqrt(NewPress / OldPress)

For example, let's say you have increased base pressure from the factory value of 43.5psi
to 55psi:
FlowFactor2G = sqrt(55 / 43.5) = 1.1244

Applying this adjustment to the example above running 720s gives the following global
fuel adjustment:
Adj2G = 450 / 720 / 1.1244 – 1.0 = 0.5559 – 1.0 = -0.444 or –44.4%

turboglenn said:

AS far as a 255 over running a stock FPR, yes it may be in "over run" meaning the pressure is higher than it should be and there's nothing that can be done. But i will say this YOU CAN TUNE AROUND IT! I did for years. When i popped my motor i had to sell some things to fund the rebuild and my AFPR and rail were a couple of them, so i ran a stock FPR for the last 5 years with no issues what so ever. Of course i'm on a full stnad alone, but any good tuning device should be able to lower pulse width enough that the tune wil be right.

Where your real problem comes in is under higher boosts where the fule pressure would be getting high normally, with a stock FPR it's getting REALLY HIGH and you start to run the danger of the injectors not opening right because of the pressure.

I hear so much stuff on forums about"you can't do this" "you can't do that" well most of it can be done, but may have some drawbacks, it's not like the car will jsut shut off and refuse to run or can't be tuned.. Hell everyone says 720's are too small for e85, well one person on here has made 445 horses on 750's and my 255 pump gave up the ghost on flow before my 720's did on my tune on E85, and that was at 24psi on a t3/t4 57 trim garrett turbo, so it flows decent air. Sorry to vent about "it can't be done" posts i see so much on here, but i had to

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It's not that it can't be done it just shouldn't. Using a standalone to fix a half ass setup is just a REALLY BIG BANDAID!! I have no idea what your ranting about in the last part but why would a injector be too small for e85?? 750's are good for 500hp cars that's comon knowledge so why is 445 such a big deal

Anyway OP we're trying to help you but it's like you asking for a way around getting the rght part and no one on here wants to tell you to half ass your build because while some have been ok like turboglenn most haven't. Do it right do it once.

Slippi84 said:

I have no idea what your ranting about in the last part but why would a injector be too small for e85?? 750's are good for 500hp cars that's comon knowledge so why is 445 such a big deal

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E-85 requires more fuel then regular gasoline, I believe it is 30% more.

Hate to say it but turboglenn is pretty right. I know what "do it right" means and i know how to do it. IM WORKING WITH WHAT I GOT AVAILABLE TO ME. That doesnt apply to you steve. I know you know my situation. Getting a afpr will fix one of my problems that i dont even care about. Slippi I appreciate your input but its like your not getting what Im saying. Im not going out and buying anything. These are all parts that are either traded or i trade work for. Its not like the people I trade with have an open inventory of shit to choose from. I get what they got. *Correction* The cams are 3xs. Im really shying away from GM MAF and leaning more towards AEM. Ill post numbers with the 3xs in and MAYBE a regulator if I can work something out.

layzie12g said:

Hate to say it but turboglenn is pretty right. I know what "do it right" means and i know how to do it. IM WORKING WITH WHAT I GOT AVAILABLE TO ME. That doesnt apply to you steve. I know you know my situation. Getting a afpr will fix one of my problems that i dont even care about. Slippi I appreciate your input but its like your not getting what Im saying. Im not going out and buying anything. These are all parts that are either traded or i trade work for. Its not like the people I trade with have an open inventory of shit to choose from. I get what they got. *Correction* The cams are 3xs. Im really shying away from GM MAF and leaning more towards AEM. Ill post numbers with the 3xs in and MAYBE a regulator if I can work something out.

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We all own dsm's trust me we all know what yoru talking about. If we had tons of money to get whatever we want when w want it then we probably wouldn't have these cars in the first place. You say your not going out and buying anything and start talkingabout EMS . SO your gonna shy away from a $300 max setup for a $1200 setup that you wil have to pay someone 300 minimum just to get you a tune that will make your car run Listen I'm no telling the right way I'm telling you teh dsm way which ischeapest and yet still works. Your tune is beat becaus you havea HUGE variable. Forget this 2g maf and 4" inake is bad BS
<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/5/2/1/2/0/Photo_042907_011.jpg" alt="Photo_042907_011" /> That'smy old 1g. GT14 with 4" intake and 2g maf as you can see. As you can also see a AFPR. I had a wabro 255hp intank with stock lines. I know exactly what your going through and TRUST me what you think you dont care about is what's part of your bigger problem. Without the ability to tune right you will run rich/lean and not be able to run right = not being able to boost. Save up charge people for the work your doing instead of trading till you can get a afpr than see what's not working.

Edit: By the way fp3x's are pretty dam aggressive cams. You will lose vaccume a idle which will make things even more interesting. Those are actually geare more for a stroker motor.

1992awdlaser said:

Turboglenn, I agree completely. With Dsmlink the way to tune around it is using the lower airflow sliders for the idle and cruise. You have to tune them anyway. Or this formula helps:

FlowFactor = sqrt(NewPress / OldPress)

For example, let’s say you have increased base pressure from the factory value of 43.5psi
to 55psi:
FlowFactor2G = sqrt(55 / 43.5) = 1.1244

Applying this adjustment to the example above running 720s gives the following global
fuel adjustment:
Adj2G = 450 / 720 / 1.1244 – 1.0 = 0.5559 – 1.0 = -0.444 or –44.4%

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But that's with set numbers. I don't think yo guys realise when you are overrunning your stock fpr fuel pressure is erattic even at the same rpm and boost. It's like trying to get a good tune on a car that will be driven in alaska and florida back and forth.

1992awdlaser said:

E-85 requires more fuel then regular gasoline, I believe it is 30% more.

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Oh ok I see he meant all e85 car aorund here all gas has some e85 in it.

Slippi84 said:

Edit: By the way fp3x's are pretty dam aggressive cams. You will lose vaccume a idle which will make things even more interesting. Those are actually geare more for a stroker motor.

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Yes, his idle vacuum will be low because the fp3X cams have same valve overlap as the fp3 cams. . .

Lazie12g, so do you have fp3 cams or fp3X cams? You said at first you had fp3 cams. The difference is the the lift and the 3X cams have more total cam retard (for topend). Though the ramprates and duration and overlap are the same between the two, you'll likely need dual or beehive springs to run the fp3X cams because the lift is a bit high. And I recommend a set of manley singles for the fp3 cams.

I can see fp3X cams do very well on a 2.0L engine with adjustable cam gears for dialing in less overlap and less retard since air velocity will be quite lower at the same rpm.

dsm-onster said:

Yes, his idle vacuum will be low because of the same valve overlap the fp3s have the fp3X has. . .

Lazie12g, so do you have fp3 cams or fp3X cams? You said at first you had fp3 cams. The difference is the the lift and the 3X cams have more total cam retard (for topend). Though the ramprates and duration and overlap are the same between the two, you'll likely need dual or beehive springs to run the fp3X cams because the lift is a bit high. And I recommend a set of manley singles for the fp3 cams.

I can see fp3X cams do very well on a 2.0L engine with adjustable cam gears for dialing in less overlap and less retard since air velocity will be quite lower at the same rpm.

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He has dual springs.. says it in his profile atleast. I think they will be nice too as long as he dials everything in.

Yes i have supertech duals, and they will be 3xs that are going in to my car. Slippi I work at a shop with unlimited access to a dyno dynamics, free tuning if i cant tune it myself, and the shop owner just happens to have an extra AEM EMS laying around so like i said before im not going out and buying these parts. I work there and dont get paid that well so its kind of a barter system. I think the fact that you have a 1g ecu might have something to do with the 4 inch intake issue. Ive found some people that have had the problem and they mostly seem to be 2g guys. The guy that owns the shop has been working on these cars for a long ass time. I just like to come here for 2nd opinions and other ideas.

I got the 3xs in. Car idles just about as good as before. They dont lope as hard as i was hoping for and i havent had a chance to tune it or anything yet but it pulls like hell in 2nd.

Good to hear. My fp2Xs pull 16-17inhg vacuum at idle. They idle rather well, too. My Light FW doesn't like returning to idle after a free rev, though.

dsm-onster said:

Good to hear. My fp2Xs pull 16-17inhg vacuum at idle. They idle rather well, too. My Light FW doesn't like returning to idle after a free rev, though.

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16-17 vacuum is what my FP2x idle at.



What about the 3x's? What is you vacuum at?
Give us more info layzie!

I hope for my sake that they don't work out very good.
If they do I might have to switch, and I can't think about that right now.
Plus... I can't have a 500lb heavier car putting me to SHAME

Lol they pull bout 16inches but my idle is all f'd up. To be honest with you they dont idle much different then my 1xs which is kinda depressing. I havent really got a chance to do any 3rd and 4th gear pulls but from what ive noticed it doesnt feel much different, but in 2nd gear the car pulls harder and wants to pull to the red line for the first time in its life. Itll be a nice set up when i get the couple issues worked out. Numbers should be coming soon.

I bet the 3x's would really shine in the upper RPM range if you had a SMIM.
Sometime I think about getting bigger cams and then remember that I have a stock IM (that I wont switch untill I get a built motor). I guess I really don't need more HP anyways, because I'm limited by my motor.

My HKS mani should be here today or tomorrow, and I ordered a GT40R today.
If I can just get Andre to build me a exhaust system, (AND order some clutch packs) then I'll be back on the road.

OOO I didn't even catch that you had a stock IM. That's your problem power wise man. You have cams that shine up top and a manifold that dies around 6k

laysie, when you finish the cam swap, i may be interested in taking the FP1's off your hands... PM me a price shipped to 78732

Slippi84 said:

OOO I didn't even catch that you had a stock IM. That's your problem power wise man. You have cams that shine up top and a manifold that dies around 6k

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6800

I'm still ona stocker too