rhamlinii said:

I don't get why you would want to run something that big, to make your car over heat. I understand cooler air makes power, but it get's hot in maryland. My car would never get below 220 in day to day traffic. I have the d.s.s setup on my car and it cost 1,000 dollars. It's small but still flows over a 1000 cfm. It's just not as efficent as yours. I alway new nitrous would cool the air charge anyway. Your setup looks nice , but how does it work on a daily driver?

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Your car is never under 220? Even on the hottest days here (~98 degress) my coolant temps were never over 214 with my old kit. It was 28x8.5x3.5. My car will not be daily driven but it will see street use when it is done.

rhamlinii said:

I don't get why you would want to run something that big, to make your car over heat. I understand cooler air makes power, but it get's hot in maryland. My car would never get below 220 in day to day traffic. I have the d.s.s setup on my car and it cost 1,000 dollars. It's small but still flows over a 1000 cfm. It's just not as efficent as yours. I alway new nitrous would cool the air charge anyway. Your setup looks nice , but how does it work on a daily driver?

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Smaller intercoolers oftentimes cause more overheating problems than bigger ones by blocking airflow to the radiator with the endtanks. If you switch to a 26" wide core there is a chance that your C.T. will go down a bit. If it still runs hotter than you 'd like you can wire you fan(s) full time or with a manual switch in case if it is not done yet. There are different thermostats out there, both temp. rating and construction. Some have a bit bigger valves than the others with longer strokes that flow more like '91 RX-7 TII. In other words there are ways out there to reduce your coolant temps on a daily driver. If it is a road course car then it may be a bit more challenging though.

I haven't noticed much difference in coolant temps at all after installing my indy street core. Not the biggest out there at 24x8x3.5 but still. This past week was kinda hot here in SoCal and my coolant temp creeped up a bit so I had to turn my second Spal 1360 CFM on which I almost never do. I normally run only passenger side full time. Few minutes after that it dropped into a warm up zone and the car went into the open loop.

damnslowtsi said:

How hard is it to route those 3" ins and outs? TJ? I remember it was pretty tight with 2.5"s that my indy kit has. I 'd like to have 3 inch inlet/outlet even with 2.5 piping. I remember a couple of years ago or so Martin (AMS) did some testing and saw a bit less pressure drop that way. This 90 degree turn that short route systems have is the biggest 'kink' that we have to deal with in order to enjoy a neatly done piping.

What kind of cores do you guys (ETS) use?

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I had no trouble with a 3" outlet that matched a 3" uicp. There's plenty of room all the way through. I like the idea of a 2.5" licp flaring out to 3" where it meets the IC. My licp is 2.5" and it just barely fits past the alternator and radiator core. It's a tight bend in that area. An alternator relocation kit would free up some needed space here.

Re: overheating. I agree that a smaller core tends to block more airflow to the radiator. My Talon had an ETS 10" high x 2.8" thick core with no overheating issues. It's driven on the street, has a 180 thermostat, and temps stay around 186 when moving. My new, larger core has had no effect on coolant temps. OTOH, my Laser has a 7" high x 3.5" thick fmic and it runs around 203 to 209 on the freeway. Both cars have the plastic bumper cover mounted tightly against the fmic, and sheet plastic to seal the bottom and sides of the IC to the radiator, so all the air that gets to the fmic also goes through the radiator. Nothing gets lost.

rhamlinii said:

I don't get why you would want to run something that big, to make your car over heat. I understand cooler air makes power, but it get's hot in maryland. My car would never get below 220 in day to day traffic. I have the d.s.s setup on my car and it cost 1,000 dollars. It's small but still flows over a 1000 cfm. It's just not as efficent as yours. I alway new nitrous would cool the air charge anyway. Your setup looks nice , but how does it work on a daily driver?

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Larger (thicker) coolers have been shown to be worth a good chunk of power over even 3.5" thick cores at 6-700whp levels. When you have all the other parts to make the power, it just seems silly to leave it on the block by runing a less efficient core.

damnslowtsi said:

What kind of cores do you guys (ETS) use?

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It is our own bar and plate design that has a unique internal/external fin design combination. We have been through several generations of core designs over the years and have determined the current design to be superior for efficiency and flow both in the pressurized environment and externally to the radiator. If you'd like specifics as to the fin design, give us a call or shoot me a PM

Tom

wishihadatalon said:

Your car is never under 220? Even on the hottest days here (~98 degress) my coolant temps were never over 214 with my old kit. It was 28x8.5x3.5. My car will not be daily driven but it will see street use when it is done.

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Sorry for the confussion, my car sits at 180 to 185. I contribute that to the small I/C. I would have no problum driving my car I maryland thruout the summer. the built motor is why i try not to add on the miles, and use it for what it was intended to do.

Kinda a old thread but I am board.
This is the car this FMIC ended up on (9 second car):
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Street Car.