Should i have jeff burn a targeted a/f ratio and timing curve or should i not even worry about it? If so what would be a good a good a/f ratio and timing curve with my mods listed?

I also have a keydiver stage 3 and its the best bang for your buck out there. My car feels alot smoother, I have no CEL, I love the stutter box, past 4k at WOT its a completly different car.....just tell Jeff your COMPLETE setup and he'll give you the best possible maps.

The best a/f ratio will be 11:1. Just tell him the mods and he will figure whats best for ## engine.

matt98eclipse said:

Should i have jeff burn a targeted a/f ratio and timing curve or should i not even worry about it? If so what would be a good a good a/f ratio and timing curve with my mods listed?

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You could give Jeff a complete timing and fuel/air map at different RPM’s and load levels if you are pretty sure that you know the topic and software better than him.

Personally I just told Jeff my engine set up and goals and trusted him to provide the detailed map. But then saying that he knows more than me about timing maps is not really the compliment to Jeff that I intended.

If you really feel like getting something to tune with I'd suggets checking out DS-MAP.net and picking up an Ostrich 2.0. That is the way I'll be going shortly. I'm collecting the GM sensors for speed density now and just finished building my JAW wideband controller. Talk about a cheap tuning solution.

I should be switched over to on-the-fly retuning with a WBO2 and SD within a couple weeks if all goes well. The costs:

$170 for the Ostrich
$130 for the JAW, display and WBO2 sensor
$70 for a GM 3 bar MAP sensor shipped off ebay
~$30 in other parts.

You can also do this piecemeal and just start with the Ostrich and move your way up. That is actually the last component I'll be buying for myself since a friend can plug his ostrich in for a tune and then burn a temporary chip for me until I have the dough saved.

You forgot the $40 IAT sensor.

Thanks guys but i already ordered the chip and i gave jeff ALL my mods and told him i would like to run around 20 pounds and run mid to high 12's. He said he would hook me up with a good A/F ratio and timing curve! He also said with my mods that it should definetly be possible with a good driver that is .

dsm-onster said:

You forgot the $40 IAT sensor.

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You mean my $30 IAT off eBay? Yeah, forgot to mention that one. Still a great deal for what the system is.

You guys need to get off your behinds and get dyno graphs and track times with that system. I'm looking at the tunerpro SD system from dsm-ecu for my brother's automatic AWD project. And it looks good. Similar to DS-map but with not nearly as much support, IMHO. I'm having a time with extending the maps on the old 16K bins or octane reset function for 32K bins for just the basic maf ecu editing. . .

I'm about as far from a dyno as you can get so you won't be getting those numbers from me. I haven't actually installed any of the system yet anyhow. I'm just getting my parts together.

I will be going to the track next weekend to see what kind of times i get! Cant wait i hope i pull some decent times and good 60ft times.

So tempted myself. Really looking forward to what difference it makes.

What I like about Keydiver is that the tunes are proven. The legwork is done. Of course for optimal, you can tweek for your setup with an SAFC. But he has a good tune for almost every setup. He can make a 2g maf 'drop in'; no fiddling with an safc. And having extended maps is so much better. Having your ecu know exactly what to do over 2.1g/rev is a real plus.

I got the chip in today!!! Im getting ready to install it and what does the extended maps do?

The OE maps end where fuel cut starts. Naturally.

The extended maps allow higher air flow and higher fuel delivery.
Hmmmmg more power!

Yes. They keep retarding timing and adding fuel (a little) as you go past where the stock maps end. Otherwise, if you simply remove fuel cut from the code, the ecu just floats on the last map and doesn't continue to tweek timing and fuel as you go higher in load (airflow). It's a nice feature to keep you from having higher timing than your setup can handle at loads higher than 2.1g/rev.

For example: if you tune up to 2.1 g/rev on a stock map you may not get knock. But you may if you up flow (boost, cams, displacement, SMIM) beyond 2.1g/rev. Since the ecu locks down at the last cell (2.1g/rev and 7000rpms), you're going to have to tune around that cell's programmed timing. Either pulling base timing, which hurts power up to the knock threshold or helping you're power up to knock and not pushing for more. There's no more timing "curve" from 2.1g/rev on. Nor is there a fuel curve. It is all linear.

Yet, at 3g/rev your setup may be able to handle more timing than 3.75g/rev. But you'll have to default/tune to the lower timing neccesary for 3.75g/rev for everythign after 2.1; regardless of how much timing the setup can handle at other flows between then and 2.1. Extending the maps give the ecu the power to keep adjusting timing for you up to wherever the extension ends (usually double 2.1g/rev).

2.1g/rev is only 32.5lbs/min at 7000rpms. 2.1g/rev is only 25 lbs/min at 5500rpms. The stock eprom maps do not go beyond 7000 rpms. So anyone running a stock 1g ecu with a MAFT or SAFC without an extended map chip is likely running a very flat timing curve after 7K or 250ish whp. Your best timing after that is the highest timing your peak torque can handle (usually). Which is customarily rather low. And peak torque usually occurs a bit higher than 2.1g/rev for most backyard builds.

Thanks for all the info guys!! Man the car feels like a completly different car. Way more power and the stutterbox sounds awsome! I have a video but not sure how to post it on here?? You can also look at the video on my webpage link.