numlock666 said:

Turn the engine over manually to Top dead center Cyl#1. Make sure the marks on the Cams line up with a STRAIT EDGE. And the mark on the crank pulley is at TDC. When you do a Boost leak test, have the engine at 30* ATDC and test it. It should pressurize fairly easy, you should be able to take the compressor off, walk away get a drink and still see 5psi on the boost guage in the car. Get a can of seafoam and run it through to find pre-turbo exhaust leaks.

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I know what you mean by valve timing now. We installed a new timing belt and pulleys and a new balance shaft belt. timing was dead on. We set it 3 times to make it perfect. The engine did the same thing before we set added a new timing belt. the belt was a little lose so we just change it. How do you know when the motor is at 30 ATDC? Seafoam good idea.

Plugs get pretty fouled after venting. Especially if they are not the right plugs
to start. Since nobody mentioned it, make sure he's got NGK BPR6ES in there. That
or BPR7ES are cool too. Plugs can make a world of difference-

nismojones said:

Plugs get pretty fouled after venting. Especially if they are not the right plugs
to start. Since nobody mentioned it, make sure he's got NGK BPR6ES in there. That
or BPR7ES are cool too. Plugs can make a world of difference-

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definatly worth a quick check. had an evo come by the shop that had the complete wrong plugs in his car, and he couldnt make much boost before it would break up and stutter real bad. can we say .040 gap!!

I know he has new ngks in the I dont know the code number.

I would also think that the bov vented would be the problem. Like the person said above me, spark plugs. Maybe even the wires causing studdering.

we changed the wire and no difference. two different types of plugs no difference.

Does the car have dsmlink in it? Maybe it's just running with a really bad tune.

no dsmlink. bad tune probably so. this car is moded like crazy, but no tuning tools.

So what are the 2 types of plugs you guys used?

Does it still use the BCS, or is it using some aftermarket MBC or EBC? The boost controller may be bad in any case.

By any chance is he running a GM MAF-T setup? I had very similar problems when I put mine in and it wasnt calibrated correctly. I wouldnt be able to get any power really and it shuddered like no other. Anyways, just something else to look at. Good Luck

for spark plugs all I know is they were autolight then he put ngks in and no difference. yes, he has a Turbo XS boost controller. The stock BCS is plugged in mounted in the car but it is NOT hooked up to the vacuum lines. He does not have a gm maf or maft. he has a stock 2g maf. hes profile name is bluedevils_11. just view his profile on what he has. He has it pretty well filled out.

I read on here about the manifold pressure sensor could go bad and cause a problem like this. A few other things I should let you know. The previous owner said that he raced it and sold it with a blown turbo and said it just needed a new waste gate. But that doesnt make sense to me at all. The wastegate never releases air because full boost is never hit. The waste gate dump is straight into the atmosphere and I can hear exhaust from it when driving or revving it. The battery recharger cables were put on backwards and it fried the transistor. I think it may have fried something else or messed up the coil pack. Another friend of mine had his car misfire because of a bad coil it feels about like the same thing. This car was a bmw though.