Try re-bleeding, the symptoms match an air filled clutch.

just out of curiosity, im dealing with this 2g pump up issue. ive tried everything that i can think of. i already adjusted the clutch rod all the way in and the upperstopper al the way out out. it still engaging at the middle(6 inches off the floor) , and bled the system like 5 times, also the slave and master are new. .... my question is it possible to shimmy the slave cylinder so that it engages closer to the floor? by shimmy i mean put a washer between the mating suface of the slave cylinder, and the slave itself? it should work right?

boosted86 said:

just out of curiosity, im dealing with this 2g pump up issue. ive tried everything that i can think of. i already adjusted the clutch rod all the way in and the upperstopper al the way out out. it still engaging at the middle(6 inches off the floor) , and bled the system like 5 times, also the slave and master are new. .... my question is it possible to shimmy the slave cylinder so that it engages closer to the floor? by shimmy i mean put a washer between the mating suface of the slave cylinder, and the slave itself? it should work right?

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do you mean you have adjusted the clutch pedal rod already?? if not you can usually gain a couple of inches there.

yes, i have already adjusted the rod all the way in. its like i bleed the system, and its good for like 5 miles, then it builds pressure, and starts to preload the tob. i dont understand...

boosted86 said:

yes, i have already adjusted the rod all the way in. its like i bleed the system, and its good for like 5 miles, then it builds pressure, and starts to preload the tob. i dont understand...

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Stock clutch?

First try this before you do what i said below, Get in your car put it in first with the clutch fully in. Now rev it up to 7000 - 7500 rpm. Did your car pull you foward? if so then your rod is adjusted wrong and you need to do what i explained below.


This is Technical shit, The proper way to adjust a clutch is to have 2 ppl. One at the slave on the tranny and you at the clutch petal. The high adjustment should be all the way out but enough to still trigger the sensor. Secondly Get under there and back that rod all the way out doing this full turns at a time. You can do this yourself. Now get your buddy or you to check the slave make. Can you still push it in with your thumb?. WHat your doing here is to have the pin out enough to let the bleeder valve release. Now keep doing that until you cant push the slave in with your thumb. Once you are at that point back it out by half turns until you can again. Remember NOT TOO MUCH THOUGH you're just trying to back it just enough to let the bleeder valve do its job. Do this and your clutch is adjusted properly. This way you will have the max throw and you wont have at at the friction point that will cause you 2 slip your clutch.

all the best

If your clutch slips under load, try re-adjusting your rod closer to the floor. It should engage somewhere near the middle of the travel.
Do this first. Just don't do a lot of things until we can sort out the core problem. If all else fails, go back to the beginning and do the simple things first.

If it still slips under load and the pedal has slack, then likely it's a clutch problem internally. Hopefully that's not the case.

Good Luck

i read this on dsmlink forums. "with your clutch at the top of the travel( not being pressed in) you should be able to push your slave cylinder rod back into the cylinder." ...i can't. whats going on? is it ssible the restrictor vlave is clogged or somthing?

boosted86 said:

i read this on dsmlink forums. "with your clutch at the top of the travel( not being pressed in) you should be able to push your slave cylinder rod back into the cylinder." ...i can't. whats going on? is it ssible the restrictor vlave is clogged or somthing?

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Refer to post #7. He explained everything you need to do to properly adjust your clutch.
Though I'm not keen on free-revving to 7k+. Part two is where the money is.