well for a very temporary fix for the problem is go to autozone or advance auto zone and get a bottle of stop smoke. its a very very very thick stuff you put into where your oil goes. its suppose to stop the smoke. it worked for me. because when i was in traffic my car would smoke like a sucker when i was stopped but when i was going no problem. so yea thats just a temp fix. i am not sure how to fix it. the bottle is like 2 dollors pour that sucker in there.

it might be the turbo... Take off the intake pipe and grab the turbo shaft inside, move it in/out, side to side, up and down to check for any play...an ideal turbo has no play any way, but some is tolerable... also check if the blades are chipped or scratched

Does it smoke ALL the time? Do it more under boost? Do it when you start it up? I just had NASTY white smoke and it was my turbo. Had lots of in/out shaft play as well.

As a rule, white smoke is water. blue smoke is oil and black smoke is fuel. great big gobs of white smoke usually is a head gasket or God forbid, busted head. Do a combustion gas leak check in your cooling system. If you have exhaust gas in your radiator, then there you have it. It's a bluish dye that turns yellow in the presence of hydrocarbons. IE exhaust.


Try that and see what happens. PS, if it really is a very light blue instead of white, you then have a totally different situation.

Good Luck

theres a little play in and out like less than a 1/4 inch but the car runs fine i dont got any drivability problems besides the smoke

and its oil burning and it smokes everytime i start it up and usually goes away after 10 minutes but its heavy smoke and sometimes when im driving usually low boost because i dont step on it much.............

Start with a boost leak test,

Then do a compression test,

Then if nothing appears wrong thus far.

1) Perform leak down to make sure your cam/lifters arent worn to the point of allowing oil the pour into the cylinders passed the valve stem seals.

2) Make sure theres no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.
You can buy a block test kit from napa, which comes with the huge syringe and one big bottle of the blue dye.
With the vehicle cold pop off the radiator cap, load 1/8 to 1/4 of bottle into the syringe via the top cap. Push the syringe on to the top of the radiator mouth (where the cap goes), have someone start the car. While its running put the squishy bellow on top of the syringe squeeze it 3-5 times, if that blue dye turns I believe green then you got HC's in your cooling system.
*** (Keep in mind you dont want to take too long doing this procedure as if the thermostat opens up while you're doing it, could get messy. )

Old Mitsu Tech said:

As a rule, white smoke is water. blue smoke is oil and black smoke is fuel. great big gobs of white smoke usually is a head gasket or God forbid, busted head. Do a combustion gas leak check in your cooling system. If you have exhaust gas in your radiator, then there you have it. It's a bluish dye that turns yellow in the presence of hydrocarbons. IE exhaust.


Try that and see what happens. PS, if it really is a very light blue instead of white, you then have a totally different situation.

Good Luck

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My turbo was causing white smoke but was burning oil like crazy. There should be NO in/out play

DARKTSI said:

theres a little play in and out like less than a 1/4 inch but the car runs fine i dont got any drivability problems besides the smoke

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Turbo's shot. Replace ASAP. By any chance, are you using synthetic oil? Most people have found that when the turbo blows, the smoke produced is whitish/gray in color, most commonly when synthetic oil is used.

yea im using synthetic it smokes white but definetely smells like oil i think the seal on the turbo is bad should i just get a new turbo or try to fix it

DARKTSI said:

yea im using synthetic it smokes white but definetely smells like oil i think the seal on the turbo is bad should i just get a new turbo or try to fix it

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Well if the shaft moves in and out your going to need to replace it anyways, and i'll bet that will take care of it. You should be able to get a replacement T25 for $80-$100 + shipping here on the tuner classifieds or on ebay.

yea i was looking at the replacement t25 but ### about the 14b i heard its a direct replacement also and its a little better.....i cant decide between those 2

DARKTSI said:

yea i was looking at the replacement t25 but ### about the 14b i heard its a direct replacement also and its a little better.....i cant decide between those 2

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They 14b is a better turbo but you will need an install kit. Well, it CAN be done without it but you will really wish you spent $ on one.

The 14b's a great little turbo. If you're handy with tools and parts, you can make your own install kit, or purchase one that includes everything (water/oil lines, J-pipe, gaskets, etc.). While it's not a direct replacement, like a T28 would be, it does more or less bolt-in with no problems. It's just the plumbing that's different, and that's really not a big deal.

Just keep boost down until you get the supporting mods that a 14b will require. At minimum, rewire the fuel pump and/or upgrade to a 190lph pump. If injectors are in the budget, 550's are nice, as well as something to control them (SAFC, DSMLink, etc.) A logger is definitely recommended at this point.

Let us know how it goes.

MrBoxx said:

The 14b's a great little turbo. If you're handy with tools and parts, you can make your own install kit, or purchase one that includes everything (water/oil lines, J-pipe, gaskets, etc.). While it's not a direct replacement, like a T28 would be, it does more or less bolt-in with no problems. It's just the plumbing that's different, and that's really not a big deal.

Just keep boost down until you get the supporting mods that a 14b will require. At minimum, rewire the fuel pump and/or upgrade to a 190lph pump. If injectors are in the budget, 550's are nice, as well as something to control them (SAFC, DSMLink, etc.) A logger is definitely recommended at this point.

Let us know how it goes.

Click to expand...

I was under the impression you could run the 14b at stock boost without any fuel mods? Of course rewiring the pump is not a big deal.

You probably could use the stock fuel system, as long as you have logging equipment that says you're not running into lean conditions. I just prefer to be safe.

you can run it as stock. dont need to change anything, just dont go over 16psi on a stock system

you can run a 16g on stock fuel system. it all depends on how much boost you run. keep it to wastegate pressure and you'll be fine. 14b is a good litte upgrade to the T25.