http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html Will this mod work on a 2G DSM? Seems it might be better than crushing. Any experiences/comparisons?

YES. I swear by it. MY 1G BOVs hold 30 psi modded in that manner without leaking.

Wasn't sure if that port you're supposed to stick an open brake line on was like venting to the atmosphere & would cause problems. The mod on the vfaq was actually for a Dodge Daytona.

So does the slow release ever cause you a problem?

It's in no way related to "venting to the atmosphere". That refers to blowing excess intake pressure out into the air instead of back into the intake ahead of the turbo intake.

As it says in the mod, it's useful if you're running more than 17 pounds of boost. Until then, the 1G BOV is entirely sufficient as originally designed.

Cool! What about the slower release? How does this effect performance, streetability, the stock turbo, etc???

Any direct comparisons of this mod to crushing?

Has anyone used the Dejon Tool Leak Stop Kit? This one uses a valve. What's the difference in how this one & the DIY from the Dodge Garage work?

pneumo said:

Dejon Tool came up with a fix called the Leak Stop Kit. It's basically the same as the dodge garage mod, except it's hooked up to a pressure sensing switch that switches at 15 psi. Above 15 psi it works just like a modded BOV, but when you're hitting lower boost, like when you drive around town, it works like an unmodded BOV and saves the turbo and throttle plate from damage.

I have one. I like it.

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So if my bov leaks at part-throttle, this mod would be useless. Right? It would be nice if we can come up with the design where the bov doesn't leak at part-throttle, holds high boost , and have a fast release action.

93DE-EZ-UM said:

So if my bov leaks at part-throttle, this mod would be useless. Right?

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If you mean the Dejon Leak Stop kit, then yes that's right. The simple Dodge Garage fix would help it hold at part throttle, too.

I found another way to help stop the BOV from leaking at part throttle. It's something I read here on these forums recently, so it's not my idea, but I tried it and it works. It's simple, just don't get the source for your MBC from the BOV line. Most MBC will bleed off some pressure from the BOV line, which might be just enough to let it open early. When I switched my MBC reference line from the BOV line to the pressure nipple on the compressor housing of my PTE turbo I noticed a nice improvement in throttle response during partial boost driving, like daily driving around town.

I found another way to help stop the BOV from leaking at part throttle. It's something I read here on these forums recently, so it's not my idea, but I tried it and it works. It's simple, just don't get the source for your MBC from the BOV line. Most MBC will bleed off some pressure from the BOV line, which might be just enough to let it open early. When I switched my MBC reference line from the BOV line to the pressure nipple on the compressor housing of my PTE turbo I noticed a nice improvement in throttle response during partial boost driving, like daily driving around town.[/QUOTE]

Thank you for your fast respond. I will try this tomorrow.

i got all the supplies for doing the dodge garage mod to my blow off valve, but there are a few parts that i don't understand in the directions. first i don't understand how to connect the set screw to the piece of brake line or thread the the brake line. Also, I don't understand why you run a 6mm die down the brake line. sorry if these are stupid questions, but please respond, my bov needs help.

You put the set screw in the hole on the bottom of the bov that you just tapped. I don't know about the die though.. but that's just because I don't know what it is . If it is what I think it is.. you use it to make threads on the line so you can screw it into the bov. I think you'd be better off doing what the dejon tool kit does, which is get a metal barb and screw it into the hole on the side of the bov that you just tapped instead of using that line as a barb. It looks better, and works better too. Good luck.

Or just send your BOV to Dejon and have them install their leak stop mod onto it. That's what I'm gonna do.

93DE-EZ-UM said:

I found another way to help stop the BOV from leaking at part throttle. It's something I read here on these forums recently, so it's not my idea, but I tried it and it works. It's simple, just don't get the source for your MBC from the BOV line. Most MBC will bleed off some pressure from the BOV line, which might be just enough to let it open early. When I switched my MBC reference line from the BOV line to the pressure nipple on the compressor housing of my PTE turbo I noticed a nice improvement in throttle response during partial boost driving, like daily driving around town.

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Thank you for your fast respond. I will try this tomorrow. [/QUOTE]

results?

I am just wondering if any of you guys tried the 1g bov mod where you drill holes in it to make new ports? I don't totally understand how it works. If anyone ones is using this setup, do you like it, or is it better to just crush the bov? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Here is the link http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html Thanks, Kevin

im running the same bov and i love it. im only running 8psi and cant complain about it though. if you want to boost over 17 psi then crush it. if your not going to then just leave it alone.

Now that I've got the biggie XX turbo (ok a "small" 50-trim ) I increased my pressure test to 22psi and noticed that my previously "slightly" crushed BOV was leaking a bit.

Took it out to inspect and found that there was alot of crud buildup around the popit valve which I'm assuming would cause seating issues . Anyway a bit of cleanining and a bit more crushing and she's back to holding boost.

On the subject of the "Dodge Garage" mod, I was wondering if leaving the bottom hole alone but drilling a pinhole from the outer body thru to the passage to (e.g. to keep the boost pressure under the diaphram low) would be a good compromise BTW a leak-free BOV under boost yet still quick reacting?

Isn't this the thought behind all the MBCs that have a constant bleed

I to bring threads back from the , but I have a question and this has been a helpful thread in the past/present. I recently purchased the Dejon Power House leak stop kit and it came with all the little barbed fittings, set screw, and such, so all I needed to get was a tap . Got the BOV modded and hooked everything up, shortened the vacuum lines a ton, jb welded all the fittings on nice and tight and let them dry. After driving around the valve worked normal under 15psi and then anything above let out a new BOV sound that I had never heard with the stock BOV. Everything seems to work great, but I hit 20psi and then it slowly falls to 15-16ish and stays there at about 4.5k rpms. Do you guys think this could be because of my totally stock fuel system and it just can't handle 20psi and keep up? Mods are in my profile, but main stuff is small 16g, FMIC, MAFT, 3" turbo back, 20psi.

I need to save for some injectors/pump/afpr now I guess.

I have a sound clip of mine if anyone is interested.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224265

Ok, i currently have my mind made up that I am doing the dodge garage mod. From what I understand the best way to do this mod is to run a vac. line from the turbo's outlet nipple to the new vac port just installed on the B.O.V. Does anybody out there currently do this mod and have problems with compressor surge or anything else, or maybe it runs great? the other question is would it be benificial to remove the new vac line while at the track?

Thanks in advance.

You can solve both of those problems if you look at DEJON | Powerhouse and get their leak stop kit for the BOV. It has a valve that will allow the BOV to operate like stock under 15psi and then switch to the modded BOV at over 15psi.

I've seen that and I really don't want to buy anything if this works as well as I think it's going to work.

here i sone for you guys... i got a friend that wanted to do the dodge garage mod to his bov but didnt want to ruin it if he messed up.. so he took a CRUSHED 1g bov and did the d-g mod to it. this thing is bad.. it releases fast and holds about 32 psi from a 50 trim.. he runs it at 24 psi daily and has no probblems.. any one else try this?? or is this just one of those fluke things??

xtreme-elements said:

here i sone for you guys... i got a friend that wanted to do the dodge garage mod to his bov but didnt want to ruin it if he messed up.. so he took a CRUSHED 1g bov and did the d-g mod to it. this thing is bad.. it releases fast and holds about 32 psi from a 50 trim.. he runs it at 24 psi daily and has no probblems.. any one else try this?? or is this just one of those fluke things??

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Did you even read this thread before you posted? It works and is proven to work.

ya i read it but on the dodge mod, it didnt say anything about crushing the bov.. it just says that you need a 1g bov.. thats why i asked..

xtreme-elements said:

here i sone for you guys... i got a friend that wanted to do the dodge garage mod to his bov but didnt want to ruin it if he messed up.. so he took a CRUSHED 1g bov and did the d-g mod to it. this thing is bad.. it releases fast and holds about 32 psi from a 50 trim.. he runs it at 24 psi daily and has no probblems.. any one else try this?? or is this just one of those fluke things??

Click to expand...

A non-crushed 1g bypass valve with this dodge garage mod can hold 32 psi just fine. Mine and many others have.