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build with 9.0 weisco pistons/manley connecting rods

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pearl4gtsi

15+ Year Contributor
216
2
Jul 17, 2004
yonkers, New_York
hey all this is my tech on building my motor.

i got the weisco 9.0 compression pistons(.040 overbore) and manley connecting rods. i got the block decked, bored, hot tanked, and all threads checked at my machine shop. i also had the entire rotating assembly balanced. this includes: factory crankshaft, fidanza 8lbs flywheel, act 2600 clutch, disc and throw out bearing, pistons, rods, and front timing belt gear.

i started cleaning the crank very well(as directed by the machine shop) with carb cleaner, compressed air and a good, clean rag. i installed the main bearings on the block and the main bearing caps. i then used vaseline and lubed all bearings. Do not grease the part of the bearing where the sit in the block and caps. only on the crank surface. installed arp main studs using arp moly lube on the threads. these only went hand tight.

i used new crush o-rings on well cleaned oil squirters and installed in block, torquing to 25ft.lbs. installed crank and main caps. hand tightened nuts in three steps: hand tight with ratchet, 40ft.lbs with torque wrench, 60ft.lbs with torque wrench, and then a final once over at 60. i used the torque sequence in the factory service manual. once in and tight, i rotated crank 4-5 rotation to check for binding. measured backlash and endplay. both withing spec.

i also took measurements of the outside diameter of the piston, inside diameter of the cylinder bore, and cylinder bore taper. all amazingly perfect. this is my check on the machine shop work quality and the chance of mass production mess ups. this will ease my worries when i start the motor for the first time.

intalled pistons on connecting rods. took the piston rings and placed them in the cylinder bore. I thenused the piston head to level it out. using a feeler gauge, measured the piston ring gap. again, nice and tight in spec. i put the rings on the pistons and placed the gap in the 1st and 2nd ring 180 degrees from each other. as well with the oil rings. placed piston in piston ring compressor and tightened. iused vaseline to lube the cylinder walls well. On top of that, i also went over the vaseline with a little fresh motor oil. makes good for a slippery surface (learned this one doing automatic transmisson rebuilds). placed piston(while still in ring compressor) in the block and using the butt end of plastic hammer, tapped piston into block. once the skirt of the piston starts to go into the cylinder, i stopped and tapped down all around on the ring compressor to make sure it is fully seated on the block. the best method to do this is a block of wood. this is to insure that the ring compressor is fully seated on the deck surface so the piston rings don't pop out. continued tapping piston into cylinder, fit like a glove!

i tapped piston all the way down to seat the connecting rod on the crank journal and had my friend guiding it the entire way. then it was time to place the cap on connecting rod. make sure that the notches for the bearings go on the same side when installing the cap. again used arp moly lube on the connecting rod bolts, as they come arp. tightened in the same three steps as above only ending at 65ft.lbs.

with just the one piston in, i rotated the crank and felt something weird. i then remembered reading a post where the oil squirters may come in contact with my particular piston. couldn't find a mirror, but i found a nice long carving knife with a mirror finish and used that. i saw the piston at bottom dead center come in contact with the oil squirter. NOT GOOD!! LOL. i removed all oil squirters and modified them using a dremel with a cutoff wheel. I removed about 1/8" off the end.

the one that got hit by the piston had to be bent back into shape because when we put it back in, it then came in contact with the crank counterweight. just used a propane torch to heat and bend. then finished off installing the other three pistons into the block and checked all the squirters one last time. the cut was perfect. great note to somebody purchasing those pistons.

stopped there as it was getting late, but will continue next weekend and post more. i intend to post the entire build from now to startup.

i included some pictures of the build, and again will continue to do so with the build. i hope my experiences being written down will be useful to any one.
 

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Looks good man. The only thing I would say is that if you could word the rest of your build up with some kind of structure, it would make it a lot easier to read. That was a tough 95 sentence paragraph with no punctuation LOL. :thumb:
 
yeah man no problem. i was just tired when writing this. and i dont think i proof read it either. sorry if its draggy but i wanted to make sure i didnt miss anything, you know? :thumb:
 
Subscribed. Excellent work man. Only problem I see is the grammer of a 10 year old.

Please reedit your post and at least put them in paragraphs LOL.

What plans do you have for this motor?
 
again i apologize. will edit the post. was not thinking about the little things just wanted to get it down.

as far as my plans, well the bottom end is done for the most part. looking into a mild street port on the head. i also have a dnp tubular manifold and garrett 50 trim. those will go on after the break-in with stock turbo and boost.

i only have an safc2 right now to tune with. i also have 560cc evo8 injectors from my previous talon. although for the 23-25 psi i want to hit, i'm gonna go bigger. most likely 770cc.

i mean, other the the physical motor itself, all other decisions are up in the air. i might have to go with meth injection or water-to-air intercooler. that should help with the detonation i might see from the high compression/high boost combo.
 
well just finished editing the first post. hope its up to par.

on another note i failed to mention a few things. i will be installing poly motor mounts. i purchased a heat barrier gasket to go between the intake manifold and the head. ive read that it does help to reduce intake air temps, although i havent seen any logs yet showing differences in intake temp before and after install.

im going to use the purple hks timing belt. with the amount of time and money going into this motor, you bet your arse im using kevlar timing belt!! ummmmm revised lifters, stock valve size for now. havent really looked into any intake manifolds yet. trying not get carried away as the car is a daily driver until i get a beater.

with the mods list and my expectations of a good tune, im hoping to hit a ballpark of 350-400 wheel horse. i could be off but at this point, its a reasonable goal.

a question does come to mind though. one of the factory main studs has threads above the bolt head. this is a hold down for the oil pick-up. the arp studs do not have this. can this be an issue, or nothing to worry about?:talon:
 
I'm also in the process right now of doing a built rebuild with a stock crank. This is my first rebuild so iv'e been talking to as many people as possible about motor assembly as possible. One tip i was given by a friend that does tracor pulls, and runs 110psi through his motor, is to not place the ring end gap on the side of the cylinder that the piston rides against during strokes or against the side of the cylinder that faces the front or back of the motor(not when your looking at the motor in the car but the actual front and rear). So place the piston ring end gap 45 degree's from the side of the cylinder that the piston rides against during strokes. He had a word for that side but i cant remember. Either way, if your looking at the motor in the car, straight back you could call 0 degrees, so put your first ring end gaps 45 degree's to the left or right from that. Then the next ring of course set at 180 degrees opposite to that. Now for the last ring you can either set the gap at the same angle as the first ring, or either of the other two 45 degree locations, the one 45 degree's in the other direction from 0 as the first ring, or 90 degree's from the first gap. Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make sure i explained it well.
 
No, he never got into the technical part of it for me, I'll ask him tommorrow and let you know. If i had to guess i would say that it has to do with how the piston rides against sides of the wall. The amount of pressure on the rings facing the front, back, left, and right side of the engine could vary. When the piston comes up it could be riding the intake side of the wall more then the exhaust side because of the fact that the con-rod is at an angle. When it comes down it may ride the exhaust side of the wall more. As for the front and rear of the motor, well imagine what crankwalk does but in a much more minute way. I think its more likely that at those 45degree points, the pressure against the wall stays more consistant. Of course I'll ask him tomorrow about it though cause i could be totally wrong. He's also from England so i have to understand him through his accent and explain it in my own words, thats why explanations are so drug out haha.
 
OK, so, i was wrong but i was on the right track. I talked to Adrian today(the friend) and the reason why you dont put the gaps facing the front or rear of the engine is because directly below that is the wrist pin and no skirt on the piston. This means oil can get past the oil ring easier then if it had to squeeze between the wall and the skirt before getting to the ring. As for the intake and exhaust sides, what he called the thrust sides, it's pretty well the reason that i had though. In theory when the piston is pushed down during a power stroke or even when it comes up the cylinder, the piston does not go straight and evenly down because it pivets on the wrist pin and the con-rod is at an angle. Even if the piston does go down straight and evenly because of the tight clearances, the force is still applies on the piston. As for what i said about the minut crankwalk idea, there is enough play in the wrist pin and the rod bearings to make up for that small amount of play, if there is any.
 
I've never seen wiseco's in person but i just looked at my stock 6 bolt pistons and below the wrist pin, the skirt stops and there is a gap about half an inch wide where oil can easily get to the oil ring. From Wiseco pictures it looks like the skirt is continued all the way around the bottom of the piston. Even though there isn't an opening in the skirt below the wrist pin like the stock ones, it would still be easier/less restrictive for oil to get to the ring above the wrist pin because it's machined flat where the wrist pin goes through.
 
just some update pictures of the build. got my bike so i've been riding around while doing the build working out great so far. not in any rush at all, but things are coming together nicely. will post a run-down soon and will continue to share my progress.
 

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Build looks terrific! Im currently doing a build for a friend which includes 2g pistons on 1g rods, all ARP fasteners, Cometic mls headgasket, with the stock head and crank. After that im starting my build which will have the same pistons and rods as you, 9.0:1 Wisecos with the Manley H-beam rods. Few questions to you and anyone else who wants to chime in..? How many miles do you figure your motor to last daily driving it? Because those are my intentions also till i find something else to drive! What headgasket do you intend to use?
 
hey guys, havent been on in a while. but here i am at last! LOL to answer a few questions: yes they are stock cam gears painted. its a burnt red/orange off of a 2003 jeep liberty.

talontsi: have put about 10k or more since the build was finished. haven't had any problems with the build. i drive mine daily as well and all is well. no noises, no knocks, nothing. not bad for doing it myself LOL just make sure u measure EVERYTHING!! and i found that the weisco piston skirt will hit the oil squirters. all i did was take a dremel and cut a bit off until it fit. still kinda close to touching, but i haven't had any issues with that.

i will post up some pictures soon so you guys can see the finished work. still need a few things before the bigger turbo goes in. soon though, with tax return, ill get it in there.:sneaky:
 
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