Is there anything that might hang me up or cause frustration by bolting it on before I install the motor?

So far on my long block I've got the timing belt tension set, the water pump on, the oil pump on, the intake and exhaust manifolds, the clutch, the thermostat housing.

Should I put on...
turbo?
the valve cover?
the big bottom half of the plastic timing cover?
The cam gear cover?
Alternator?
t-case?(is this in the way of bellhousing bolts?)


PS Its a 1990 TSI AWD

I put everything except the exhaust manifold and turbo but that's only because my header and turbo are quite large and i don't' want them to hit the radiator on the install. But if you're on a 2g with a stock ex manifold and smaller turbo you can put everything down to the power steering and alternator. The AC compressor should have stayed in the car when you removed the motor so that will have to wait till you put the motor in.

depends on if you also removed your tranny. is your tranny still in the car? if it is you might have a hard time trying to spline the tranny with the motor. in that case it would be easier to remove all timing components and water pump that way it gives you more room to work with.

if your tranny is out of the can and installing the motor and tranny at the same time then you can leave the timing components and water pump on. also it is alright to leave the intake manifold on that way you wont have to try and tighten the bottom bolts. you can install mostly everything but i recommend that you leave the turbo and exuast manifold off
along with the alternator.

good luck

Don't bolt on the transfer case:

Thanks for the tips Yes, the tranny is still in the car along with the a/c and PS pump and oil filter housing.
I've got the radiator and fans out so I could work with some room so I guess that'll help.
Thanks for the tip about the t-case also.

I would install the oil filter housing before I put the motor in if I were you, it's a pain to install the lower timing cover with the motor in the car (atleast in my experience it was).

Thats the easiest way to do it...its practically the front cover. I couldnt imagine doing it while the motor is in.

blcknspo0ln said:

Don't bolt on the transfer case:

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Interesting that you say this because I pulled mine with it attached and dropped it back in with it bolted in. I didn't really understand that the fluid would leak out the end and when I put it back in I didn't have any fluid in it. I just recently realized that is why it locked up on me on the interstate .

Mine was in the same state as yours when I dropped it in, plus the transfer case . Good call.

i removed the motor 100% complete with EVERYTHING attached, however i drop it in and out the bottom, upon install i will be leaving the manifolds off, and everything else attached.

What about the A/C bracket? On or Off?

AC bracket protrudes just as much as your intake manifold does. I'd leave it bolted on. I just swapped a front case while it was in the car, big PITA.

I would leave the valve cover off, depending on what you connect chains to when you drop your motor in the chains could press on the valve cover too much and crack, that's a risk not worth taking.

blcknspo0ln said:

AC bracket protrudes just as much as your intake manifold does. I'd leave it bolted on. I just swapped a front case while it was in the car, big PITA.

Click to expand...

I just put it on and you're right. Doesn't stick out much at all.

xdxoxuxgx said:

I would leave the valve cover off, depending on what you connect chains to when you drop your motor in the chains could press on the valve cover too much and crack, that's a risk not worth taking.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. I was worried about that so I didn't bolt the cover down and made sure the chains didn't touch it when lifting.

hmph, I always just put a rag between the chains and my VC

slowgsr said:

i removed the motor 100% complete with EVERYTHING attached, however i drop it in and out the bottom, upon install i will be leaving the manifolds off, and everything else attached.

Click to expand...

I would advise putting on the manifolds before you drop it in. As a matter of fact, I'd suggest put on everything you possibly can before the motor is in the car; It's just plain easier. The intake manifold, for example, is very hard to get on once the motor is in the car. That and it'll give you a chain-attachment point (important for dropping the motor in ).

blcknspo0ln said:

hmph, I always just put a rag between the chains and my VC

Click to expand...

I do too.

On a big side note, however, when I took my motor out, the chain hypotenuse that attached to my throttle body bracket actually tensioned up (as expected) and snapped off my PCV. It did so in such a way that the threads were still inside the valve cover and the actual valve sheared completely off. All I did was retap the hole and install a brass nipple from Lowe's and an automotive check valve.

That was a large side note, but the point is that you can't always think of and save everything. Get the big stuff out of the way, and take your time dropping the engine in. This will hopefully eliminate headaches, as will attaching certain things while the motor's out.

Well I tried for about half an hour to figure out how to get the motor in there last night. WOW! I'm a bit stumped at the moment. It may be possible if I can get the back of the motor slanted down ALOT. I'm using a standard type engine hoist by the way. TO slant it I'll probably need one of those super dooper adjuster things that are spendy.
Basically there is about 20.5" between the frame and the bellhousing. The motor is 21.5" from the end of the crank to the end of the pressure plate.

How'd you guys get the motor in?
Will it help if I unbolt the tranny mount and just shove the tranny back towards the passenger side of the car more? (it currently won't budge with the mount still attached)


It looks like I'll maybe be pulling the tranny tonight...too bad that involves undoing both struts, calipers, and axles. DOH!

If the tranny is still in the car your gonna have to un-bolt the side and rear mounts. That will give you alot of extra play. When I did my swap I also used a small jack under the tranny for extra angle adjustment.

I used one chain and at Home Depot they have these stainless steel "quick links" that have screw fittings, you can use them to add and remove slack in the chain, that also gives you more adjustment


This is what I'm talking about.



Hope that helps!

Thank you for all the tips. I tried tilting the motor but it just wasn't enough. The clutch was hitting the bellhousing and the crank sprocket was hitting above the frame. So I pulled the tranny which only took about one hour.
I'm gonna wait till tomorrow to buy a new passenger side axle seal (already replaced all the other seals) then put the whole motor and tranny in to the compartment together.

Absolutely amazing how a couple valves turned into a total motor rebuild

I have always found it easier to pull the engine and trans at the same time. Good luck with it all.

Keep the transmission connected to the engine. This angle works good:



As you lower it, the crossmember pivots the transmission right into place. The only thing I removed was the transfer case and the power steering pump.

Wow! That is a very complete motor. I think I'll put on that front motor mount too...might save some time. I'm also gonna put the turbo and water pipe on there.

Just got the seal in a few minutes ago and took a break to go online.

Thanks for the tips guys!

edit: got the water pipe on there. The o-ring was a pain to seat. The turbo took about 2 hours...every little thing that can fight me does.

Got the motor in and I'll update this thread with my experience.

I basically bolted everything on that I could (including the tranny) except for the following:
Transfer case
Motor mounts (all four)
valve cover (optional if you run your chain differently than mine)
intake support bracket (the big one underneath...was still attached to vehicle with vaccum lines)
PS pump (still in car)
A/C pump (still in car)
a/c tensioner
TIMING COVER
Cam cover
Alternator (I found it easier to connect the wires without it mounted up)
Crank pulley
water pump pulleys
All three accessory belts
starter (I left the wires connected and let it lay on the batt tray area...found it easier to not have to mess with the wire connections)


That pretty much sums it up.