I wish I did, but sadly I don't. I'm going to start checking around with some of the locals and see if anyone's got a dual piston parts car laying around that I could send their way. I'm sure I could come across a 1.8 somewhere with the small rotors, but anyone seriously trying to go racing on the single pistons better either be very soft on brakes or have removed a ton (literally) of weight from the car. If anyone here has one available to send their way let me know and I'll pass on the information.

Too bad. I dont have one either. Junkyard diving maybe could find one? Not sure what condition it would be in though is the issue you know? Time for someone to chime in if they have and get it to them. Would be very cool to see what they come up with.

What part(s) do you need exactly? I know the e-mail mentioned the spindle assembly but what all does that include? I'm guessing the hub, rotor, and caliper maybe.

Kyle, let's see if we can have one made that would work for both the factory dual piston calipers and those of us with big brakes. Not sure how that would be accomplished but it would suck to have one made up that half of us couldn't use.

I'd believe if the duct came up vertically and had a backing plate to fit a 13" rotor it would be the best. That way those with the larger brakes could use it just fine, and those with smaller brakes could just trim off the excess.

Yeah, that way when YOU finally get your big brakes you can benefit from them too!

Ludachris said:

Yeah, that way when YOU finally get your big brakes you can benefit from them too!

Click to expand...

I did some more thinking on this tonight and I think we should send in a stock 1g awd spindle, dual piston caliper, rotor combination.

He can make the duct piping to fit within this smaller configuration and then we'll have to find some specs for the larger aftermarket setups and the backing plate will be built to fit those well. Then those guys like me can just trim off the excess until it fits our smaller rotors nice without having to worry whether or not the piping will work or not. I figure 2.5" piping would be the best idea as it still flows air plenty and we need all the extra space we can get.

Now to find a 1g spindle with the bigger calipers and rotor to get in their hands and someone on here to post up rotor specs for their bigger setups.

snowborder714 said:

What part(s) do you need exactly? I know the e-mail mentioned the spindle assembly but what all does that include? I'm guessing the hub, rotor, and caliper maybe.

Click to expand...

Ideally we'd need one off of a 1g as they're different than the 2g's.

But yea basic parts needed are

1g front Spindle (control arm and balljoint not required)
2 piston caliper (could be 2g, 1g, or even non-turbo 3/S)
Matching rotor (could be 2g, 1g, or even non-turbo 3/S)


if someone wants to send along a 2g spindle I'm sure he could try to make one that works with both model years.

If they could be made to fit my stoptechs I would be all over a set to!

/A

I can probably get ahold of a front spindle pretty easily for a 1g. Have any of you guys who've upgraded to stoptechs or TCE setups got the stock 2 piston calipers laying around?

How did I not find this thread sooner? I used 2" neoprene hose from Pegasus racing. Pic's of the routing are in this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/roa...eason-updates-show-us-what-youre-doing-5.html Post #s 85, 112, 130, 191. The inlets are in the former fog light openings.

underradar92 said:

How did I not find this thread sooner? I used 2" neoprene hose from Pegasus racing. Pic's of the routing are in this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/roa...eason-updates-show-us-what-youre-doing-5.html Post #s 85, 112, 130, 191. The inlets are in the former fog light openings.

Click to expand...

So how did you go about routing your ducting?

Nevermind, just saw the pics in post 191 of that thread. Guess I'm going to have to find some tubular front control arms.

Here's his pics

I tried routing the ducts like underradar92 did but it rubbed on the cv boot with the stock control arms.

Kyle,
I wish I still had my old brake setup but sold it when I went to the stoptechs otherwise I'd be happy to make a donation. If you would like any dimensions from my setup, let me know.

Found a semi-local in Indianapolis that has the 2 piston setup laying around right now. He's going to look to send in his stuff. I'd love to get some info from those of you with larger brakes.

Main thing I'd need would be inner rotor diameter, offset of the hat from the back surface of the rotor to the inner surface of the hat (where it touches the hub), also mention what caliper you have with your setup.

I'm thinking we get one that will hug the stock caliper tightly, but will be as big as the inside of a 13" rotor. That would mean that everyone who gets one would have to do some slight trimming to make it fit their exact setup, but it would fit anything from stock 2 piston calipers to stoptechs to wilwood based TCE and custom setups hopefully.

Has anyone ever used Wilwood 570 for their brake fluid? I've found a local store that stocks this stuff and it'd make bleeding the brakes much easier if i could get this stuff locally.

Wilwood 570 is good stuff and often available at vendor booths at races. The only concern is that it has a low wet boiling point. IMO, as long as you flush it between races/events it's a good product...never in a daily driver.

Thanks for the info. I think I may start working on gathering info on dry and wet boiling points vs. pricing.

Some great info on brake fluid can be found here:

Stealth 316 - Brake Fluid

On a per dollar basis the top two brake fluids I've found are Motul 600 and ATE.

Castrol SRF is still the way to go though. On any car that you don't drive daily you'll probably save money with the SRF (even though it's REALLY expensive) just based on the fact that even wet it has a very high boiling point. (518) Some track guys I know go an entire season using only 1 liter of SRF versus bleeding and flushing every event with other fluids.

1 liter of SRF is 75$, 1 liter of Motul RBF600 is 40$ and 1 liter of ATE is 11$.
SRF is 590/518 , Motul is 593/420 ATE is 536/396

A couple quick things:

A shameless sponsor plug: In my experience Pentosin Racing Brake Fluid is the best deal out there great numbers, good price...not always easy to find however.

Also, in case you do not know, do NOT use DOT 5. This is synthetic brake fluid and will not work with our brake systems. Harder than hell to flush out when you realize your mistake too.

(DOT 5.1 is okay though)

So, now that I've gotten my rodent problem under control (caught 3 mice in the car!) I had a chance to work on my brake duct brackets a little more. All that's left is to finish welding the pipe to the bracket, cut the NACA ducts into the bumper, and run the hose.

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Looks good. Any plans to put a backing plate to keep the air in the center of the rotor?

mavisky said:

Looks good. Any plans to put a backing plate to keep the air in the center of the rotor?

Click to expand...

I debated the idea for awhile but I think for now I'm going to see how this works without the backing plate. I have to imagine that the internal vanes of the rotor will create enough "suction" to keep whatever fresh air I feed it through it. If it still isn't enough, I can always add on later. I may have to weld on a perpendicular piece of metal to prevent some of the deflection I have right now. It's not bad but after the hose goes on and I turn the wheels, I may need more support.

BTW, I too have used the Wilwood 570 and this is the same fluid I boiled before going to the Motul RBF. To be fair though, I didn't replace the fluid as often as others here.

More progress this evening. I ran into a snag with my rivets...I need backing washers otherwise the upset end digs into the bumper material. Now the real question, paint them to match the car color or leave them clear?

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