anyone have the wiring diagram for a 2g Coil on plug setup? i think it is just wired wrong. Wouold i have to wire it differnent cause i have a 97 with a 95 DSM link ecu and a 1g CAS?

Any with the info?? Basically i need to know how a 97-99 with DSM link (95-96 EPROM), and a 1g CAS has their COPO wired. If someone can help me out here it would be huge. I have a slowboy COP setup, brand new, and i threw it on and it didn't work. Wouldn't even fire. So it must be wired wrong. Please give me a hand

i bought a 2g cop setup with the standard wiring for the vehicle and i have a 6 bolt swap. i just had to reverse the 2 trigger wires. If you are running a msd -dis2 or something like of that sort, you can swap those rather than the cop wiring. hope this helps.

remember the cops are wired for the stock firing setup. if you have a 6 bolt swap, the firing order changes.

to be the easiest and not get yourself confused. take the engine harness side of the ignition coil plug and swap the 2 trigger wires around. i believe its green and blue. i don't quite remember, its just not the black one.

Derek

taken from http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163583&highlight=cop+wiring


and this http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175924&highlight=cop+wiring

I am looking to make a cop setup. I have been looking for 300m plugs but havnt been able find any cheap. I called Advanced Auto parts to ask what the (NEW) price is on these for reference. They said that they don't have OEM replacements but they have EXACT (sp?) for 21.99 for 2 of them.

So i want to know has anyone made COP setup with this brand or anthing but oem? Are these advance auto parts/autozone plugs any good for COP's.

I dont want to pay 50 per plug to get an oem one.

Have you checked junk yards?

Sorry I don't know much about COP setups, but I bought XACT spark plug wires for my Corsica and they suck. Worst wires ever. The boots at the ends separated completely from the metal part inside and the wires would fall off while I was driving. I would advise to stay away from that brand.

What they are pricing you is the price for the rubber boots if its the Xact brand, not the whole coils. If I remember right its up in the $100 range for 4 coils from Advance but that was with my employee discount.

And yes the Xact wires do suck. A lot of people have brought them back with ends pulled off. Some put dielectric grease on some didn't.

I went to Adv. and they were pricing me the boots. The idiot on the phone said it was the igniter. The price is actually 35 each.

Ok so I was hoping to figure this out on my own without posting, but 4hours of no luck is enough.

A friend gave me a coil on plug set from a sebring I think he said, or intrepid I forget.

He said he never touched it and gave it to me.

It already came with a tachometre box wired into the coils, and this single wire with a box on the end wired in aswell. I checked out a spare 90 coil I had and the numbers were the same on the tacho part and that box thing with one wire was the same as the one on the assembled spare coil.

The wiring was all jimmy rigged together so i spent my time and soldered all the connections and gave them a quick tape job so I wouldnt have any electrical issues.

I started the car up no problem. Idles ok. But BAM just like all the other posts on here theres no tach signal in my gauge( well, needle hops around under 200 rpm)

Switched back to stock, it works.

Couple questions.
1. Does the tachometre box need to be grounded?(i noticed metal on the inside of the mounting holes)

2. does the little box with a single wire attached need to be grounded?

3. I noticed peple talking about the 90 has a noise filter for the tach signal. I think i found it , rectangle box 2 wires on back of IM with mishi sign on it???

4. Do the coils themselfs need to be grounded with the mount holes? I notice all the expensive setups have the coils mounted on a plate, I dont know if thats nessecary to make it work correctly?(Only thing I have not tried)


Any other suggestions that I could try?

Thanks in advance,

You can Lock thread, I figured it out.

Explain to others how you found out.

Please do. Im bout to do cop on my 90. My coils are from an intrepid and haven't found a wiring diagram for them. Thanks

OK, For a 90. the Tach signal to your gauges is on your coil.
You need to keep the black box with the 3 wires on it reading tacho interface.
Aswell as the little black box with a singal wire on it(no clue what it is for).

Easiest way to do it is strip all wiring off of your coil, and bracket and keep it intact.

There are 3 wires comming from the plug that need to keep their connections 1 goes to each wire from tacho box. Note their connection before removing.
Cut off the o rings and solder them as they were connected originally on your coil.

For the coils that you picked up from the intrepid.
I do not have a picture, But I will try to explain it best i can.
Coil 1 will be coil closest to timing belt and coil 4 furthest away.

1)Black wire with white stripe- goes to top wire on Coil 1, then from top wire on coil one, to top wire on coil 2. (thats it for black and white wire)

2)Red wire goes to bottom Pin/wire of Coil 4 (done with red wire)

3)White wire goes to bottom pin/wire of Coil 3(done whith white wire)

4)Now your left with 2 more connections to be made. Connect Top wire of coil 4 to bottom wire of Coil 1.

5) and last connection. top wire of coil 3 to bottom wire of coil 2


I had It running without anything needing to be grounded. All wiring intact, only thing removed was the coil and bracket. I did have to make up a plate for the coils to sit on.(trace plug wire cover to sheet of metal) and drill holes. Car runs great. Im pretty much stock, but noticed that in 4th gear I have no knock on my knock light where I did before.
3rd it is still there however. So minor improvement.

I'll check back here a couple times if anyone has questions that I may be able to answer.


------------------------
Originally I wired the coils together and it made sense in my head, and made the car run.
But then I seen a kit and noticed how it was wired and it made even more sence!
Problem solved. hahhah

sorry for the link.. But if you read what Spln_Hrd wrote:

Quote:
him--->"Originally Posted by Spln_Hrd View Post
You should still have a tach on a 1g with COP unless its a 90. You sound like a good canidate for dsmlink. The two goals you would achive could be done with dsmlink and a 3bar map."

me--->what do you mean you should still have a tach on a 1g with COP unless its a 90?? Just Ordered my COP and its going on a 90.. And I have dsmlink too..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ne-use-maft-translator-pro.html#post151338156


Anyone else have any advice?.. Is this true? False?.... I just ordered mine and want to know if it was a mistake for my 90

I know he wasnt talking directly to me but I saw that and got concerned...

I believe the '90 tach signal comes from the stock coil, hence the 4pin connector vs 3 pin on the 91+. Therefore once that coilpack is eliminated the tach signal will have to be picked up from a different location. Does the 91+ tach get its signal from the ignitor/power transistor possibly? If so you could simply swap to the later unit. I will be doing the same conversion soon and looking for the same answer...

GSX_Dan said:

I believe the '90 tach signal comes from the stock coil, hence the 4pin connector vs 3 pin on the 91+. Therefore once that coilpack is eliminated the tach signal will have to be picked up from a different location. Does the 91+ tach get its signal from the ignitor/power transistor possibly?

Click to expand...

Correct. The "Tach" signal is created by the tach gate attached to the coils on a 90 and by the PTM on a 91+ cars.

GSX_Dan said:

If so you could simply swap to the later unit.

Click to expand...

Not sure that the 90 tach likes the signal from the 91+ PTM. The signals are different but it's worth a try.

You could also try to use the 90 tach gate witgh the COP by removing it from the COP and wiring it into the wires from the 90 PTM to the coils.

You do NOT loose your tach signal when you eliminate the coil on a 90 for a COP setup.

When you remove your coil you need to wire in the tach unit (square box with 3 wires comming from it (maybe 4 i forget))
and the little, singal wire black box(some sort of filter)
in the same configuration as they were on the stock coil.

When this is done the tach box, that was originally on the stock 90 coil will be able to give the correct signal for the tach.

DON'T go messing with the PTM!

Just create the same circuit as stock with the tach box. and run your coils from that.
Draw a diagram if you have to before you rip it off the stock coil.

I did a quick write up at the bottom of my thread there. Try and follow that its really easy,



http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/274017-cop-gurus-lend-hand.html


PM me if you need any help
Mike

Sp1kE said:

You do NOT loose your tach signal when you eliminate the coil on a 90 for a COP setup.

Click to expand...

You will if do the natural thing and remove the coil pack like you would on a 91+ as you know.

Thanks for confirming that 90 owners should just keep the tach gate and reconnect it to the COP

I know this is an old thread, but... without comparing apples to oranges, how do ebay COP setups compare to other more expensive COP setups (ie. slowboy, etc.). I'm not interested in hearing about how it's a waste of money since the OEM coil pack works just fine or how an MSD system would be a better choice. I'm strictly interested in how these COP's compare to other COP's.

For people whos running COP set up, just like to know what kind of power your making witht he COP and also if your using anytype of ign box like a AEM Twinfire or a MSD DIS


Thanks

We recently installed a COP setup on my buddy's 2G for less spark blowout above 20psi. At the time he was running an 05H 20G at 22psi...occasionally the boost would spike to 25psi, and the car would miss. Once we installed the COP, the problem went away.

We weren't on a quest for more power, just more reliable spark. It worked.

jusmx141 said:

We recently installed a COP setup on my buddy's 2G for less spark blowout above 20psi. At the time he was running an 05H 20G at 22psi...occasionally the boost would spike to 25psi, and the car would miss. Once we installed the COP, the problem went away.

We weren't on a quest for more power, just more reliable spark. It worked.

Click to expand...

the consensus of this board is that a COP will output less spark energy.

I'd guess the improvement you saw was because you replaced an aging coil pack/plugs/wires with new.

I've personally seen a 1000whp car using stock coils and a quality CDI. The key is the CDI. MSD and AEM are junk, Autronic and M&W are the only two worth using. For your application you could use either an M&W PRO12 or the M&W PRO 14. They also make a complete COP kit if you're still set on getting COP, but I don't think you would need it.

You can just go to the junkyard and get coils from a dodge intrepid or a 300m. Those would be cheap and work.