How do you go about rotating the turbine housing for a 14b?

take off the circular v-band clamp, separate the two housing from each other, grind off the alignment nipple and put it back together. when the clamp is loose the assembly moves. why do you wanna rotate it

and the wastegate actuator wont line up correctly if you rotate the turbo

I'm trying to run a GReddy 24V FMIC without the 11 miles of piping that comes with the kit.

You could always take off the circular clamp holding the turbine housing on and just rotate the turbine housing , instead of grinding down the alignment dowel pin. You do know that when you do this your wastegate is not going to line up anymore.

Do you mean your turbine housing or your compressor housing? The compressor housing is what you would want to clock to get the discharge lined up for the FMIC kit. You can do that by removing the internal snap ring that holds the cover on. Make sure you get a GOOD snap-ring plier set. Not the kind with replaceable tips. I mean a good one, like Snap-on. Anything else will make your life hell with those stupid snap-rings.

But IIRC, the 14b has the wastegate mount on the compressor housing. That would mean you would have to re-mount it from the turbine side if you clocked it. It wouldn't be ridiculously hard, but you would have to build a bracket that bolts to the O2 housing bolts. You might have to shorten the wastegate arm too.

It might be easier to just get a J-pipe and run the turbo like it is.

Edit: I wanted to clarify, you can clock the whole turbo by rotating the turbine housing, but that's the wrong way to do it. You want the oil to feed from the top and drain from the bottom. Any other way will kill your turbo.

Yea. I had a brain fart. Compressor housing.

I might have to get a mani with an external gate then.

That, or you could run an external off the O2 housing. That way you won't need to get a new manifold, or worry about welding your internal wastegate flapper shut.

thekellbeast said:

That, or you could run an external off the O2 housing. That way you won't need to get a new manifold, or worry about welding your internal wastegate flapper shut.

Click to expand...

How would that bypass the turbine? That's after the blade. I need a new manifold anyways.

An internally gated turbine housing can be setup for an external gate. Blank

If you're in the market for a new manifold, then you'll be in the market for someone to weld up your internal flapper or a new turbine housing.

I have a stick welder. I dont really like externally gated turbos tho, so I might just say #### it and deal with the extra piping. I might try to pull a SBR piping setup instead of the stupid GReddy one. Does anyone have any other ideas on how to get the charge pipes to the driver side of the car w/o using 9 to 11 miles of pipe?

I completely support what you're trying to do. Don't give up. Read a similar thread here.

DSMUnknown,

I read the thread you linked to, which changed some of my previously assumed theories on fluid dynamics and the behaviour of compressed liquids. But one theory that pops into mind that would change your arguement is the tendency for liquids to spiral around bends, especially when compressed or in negative pressure. This tendency greatly reduces friction and speed loss. This isn't a very good example, becuase most of this is due to the shape of the bowl, but visualize how water flows through a flushing toilet.

I'm wondering tho, what it is about direction change that is so harmful to flow? It seems to me, at that point that an air to air intercooler should be tossed infavor of chemical alternatives (methanol and water injection). Let me say, losing bends in charge pipes is definately helpful, but I think removing an extra 180 in a piping setup is similar to someone removing pennies from the coin holder and calling it weight loss. Dont get me wrong, they both help but you're missing the big picture. IMO, the intercooler, no matter the design will act like a catalytic converter to the exhaust by interupting the previously mentioned behaviour to spiral.

I'm really doing this to remove extra piping. I'm more intrested in the volume of the charge pipes because I'm building a street car.